Gromit

No idea, but if you want an instant reply, I'd say a phone call to Mr Ashcroft would be your best bet.

There's a guy on ebay selling genuine ones for about 50 quid. Can't remember his name just now but I'll have a search. I welded an extra piece of plate to the outer part, as it's still prone to folding on a tree etc.

Dunked the cap in boiling water last night, for about 30 seconds. Thanks guys, that worked a treat, despite the cap being a bit mangled. No more mucky wheel

Using a torque wrench. Expensive ones are very expensive. You can get cheapy ones from machine mart and others, or your local tool shop. Or, you can just do it by feel. 25Nm is lightish pressure on the end of a half inch ratchet.

25 Nm or 18 lbft - not a lot.

I use a stanley blade to carefully cut away the old gasket. Be careful when torquing up the pump bolts. The ones on the right are prone to stripping. If you don't know the correct torque, I can look it up for you.

I'm gonna give the boiling water trick a go, but I'm wondering how to get the taste of EP90 out of the kettle. Hmmmmm, Earl Grey anyone?

Has anyone ever managed to get a rubber hub cap off without damaging it so that it leaks when returned to service? Maybe it's the carp aftermarket ones I'm buying, but they need a reasonable amount of persuasion to get them off, and they're never the same shape afterwards. Ahh oui, l'eau d'EP quatre-vingt-dix

The fan is filled with a fluid that locks up when it gets hot. When cold, with the engine off, the fan should spin freely by hand. When hot, again with the engine off, the fan should resist turning, as it's now locked to the top pulley. They are expensive yokes to replace. I just fitted an electric fan when mine died.

What about a 200tdi club? I Reckon Ralph might win that one at, what, 1/2 a million miles? I'm just shy of a 1/4 of a million, but I'm catching up

Hi ya Vinny, Is this another 90 round town? Hurray! Isn't your brothers truck a bit of a rocket to be comparing it to? He should come round and try my wheezy 200tdi What chip is in it? branded replacement or one of the additional ones wired in. I'd be checking the basics like fuel and air filters, lift pumps etc. I would have thought that LR would have fitted the brackets to every truck and then fitted the bars as needed. I believe that all CSWs have anti-roll bars but commercial 110s don't. That said I don't have any brackets on the front of mine. Not much help really.

It's quite easy to strip and clean up. IIRC, there are just 2 tabs at the back to be bent out. Remove the switch gubbins and clean up with emery paper or a file. Coincidentally, all my orange lights died last night, the flasher relay that I fettled 3 years ago finally gave up. If you are replacing the relay, don't rely on Halford's references, as they are all completely wrong. Course you all knew that already.

There's a rumour going around that it is going out of production. I don't know how true this is, but if I was buying one new, I'd want to be very sure of being able to get parts for a long time to come. Very little of it is shared with the 300tdi.

Yeah, absolutely. Didn't have my phone with me as I'd just run out of the house. Should have known better really. Well, lesson learned.

I believe there are seal kits you can get to fix the leak. I had the same problem, along with play in the steering and a drop arm that wouldn't tighten properly so I just changed the box for a reconditioned one. It's an easy job, other than the box itself is a bit heavy to manoeuver into position. I make the mistake of opening the bleed screw on the box too far and created an ATF geyser when I started it. Covered the front of the truck, driveway, tools and even the front of the house See Les' post in the tech archive.

Last night at about 11, a neighbour showed up at my door with another guy, asking me if I could pull the other guys car out of the ditch round the corner. My neighbour had already tried with his Punto and I could smell the clutch from the hallway. The guy seemed a bit Mildly miffed, but my neighbour seemed keen to rescue him, so I followed them down the single track road to a Citroen with its nose in a hedge. Upon arriving and getting a few strops, it was clear that your guy was far too drunk to drive, slurring his speech and just having driven off a straight road. So I pulled him out and told him he'd be better getting a taxi, and left them. I'm quite sure he didn't get a taxi. Because it was a neighbour asking on his behalf, I helped them out. Thinking about it today, I should really have just left him there till the morning.

I've had the 110 as my sole transport for about 6 years. It got me to the south of France, up and down the Alps for 2 years with a knackered rad, VC and injection pump, as well as commuting to work, 2 trips to the Pyrenees, and then round the East coast of France back up to Ireland. It was laid up a few times for a few days waiting on parts etc but never left me stranded. After that I was faced with a 140 mile round trip to my new job and the truck having been slightly neglected, needed a service, timing belt, seals etc. and me not having the time to do the work, I bought a cheap van for the commute. Over the next 3 months, I worked on the truck and commuted in the van. I hated every minute in the van. Three months later, the truck was back on the road and that week, the van blew up (and still isn't running). I've never been so happy to get back into the truck as my daily transport, even for long commutes. Yes, I've occasionally had to borrow a car to get to work, mainly because of muppet suppliers ordering the wrong parts , but I won't go back to running a carp car as my daily transport - ever. I'd just miss the 110 too much

Having just done this, the cutaway profile faces the diff, so you are correct and LRM are wrong. No surprise there then

Yep, it's OHC with shims. Haven't checked them. Just trying to get a list of things to check when I call to the mechanic. Will add that to the list. thanks!

Yep, I think it is the F8Q. PDFs would be brilliant.

Thanks for the response. We were chatting about the clicky advance solenoid, so that appears to be working. The engine was running fine with the blown gasket, just had bubbles in the coolant, so don't think the bottom end has been cooked. As for low compression, on the advice of the guy who skimmed the head, I fitted the thickest gasket. Hope that isn't the problem. Agree entirely about the French sentiments (though not with the diesel comments <smack>). Only want to get it running so I can get shot of the infernal thing

Out for me too, only bit of bling on my truck Did you mean pennies? Thought not.

Brilliant. I wonder who set that up. Both sites set up by the same person: Registrant Name:I.P.Freely

Apologies for being completely OT, but both my mechanic and myself have been struggling with this for a while, and you guys are more knowledgeable than most. A brief history: The engine is a 1.9 diesel, in a kangoo van. Was running grand until a coolant leak resulted in the head gasket blowing. I pulled the head, had it skimmed, and now can't get it to run properly. Symptoms: Will start and idle for a while and then slowly die. Revving it results in it dying straight away. It's generally smoky (greyish), but it has been sitting for a long time - nearly a year now. Thinking it was a fuel starvation, and not having the time to work on it/generally hacked off with it, I passed it to my mechanic. It's now running from a fuel bottle under the bonnet, straight into the injection pump, bypassing the fuel filter etc. Timing has been checked and is ok. Obviously when doing the head, I disturbed something or reassembled something incorrectly. First thing that springs to mind, is the loom. There's a sensor in the airbox (airflow/temp?), a coolant temp sender and a few plugs on the injection pump. Does the panel thing that a duff/incorrectly plugged sensor would give the symptoms above? I'm not sure how smart the engine management is on it. No lights on on the dash. Any other ideas? Many thanks in advance