Gromit

So, I set about replacing the clunky rear drive members this evening after work. One one side, the bolt sheared , so I abandoned that. On the right side, I got the drive member off to find that the replacement one wouldn't fit on the haft shaft. The replacement is made by Karsons, and matched the correct part No: FRC 5806. The spline count is correct, but it seems the member is a few thou too small. It might drift on with a lot of persuasion, but I wasn't willing to try that. So, best way of removing the sheared bolt is probably a trip to a mate with a welder, remove the drive member and weld something on to the remains of the bolt? Any other bright ideas? Anyone heard of Karsons or seen something similar with parts almost, but not quite, fitting? Ta muchly, Still clunky

No idea how similar a 200 is to a TGV. There's been a bit of development in between. Turner do uprated heads for the 200tdi, don't they? I wonder do diesels benefit from hotter cams?

Seconded. Used hammerite to paint my wolf rims. 3 months later and they're rusty

(your quoting is a bit funny, or there's a post missing) Green bible is the Haynes. Not always 100% correct, but a good intro to your truck X-Brake is a disk brake replacement for the handbrake drum. More info from X-Eng. Be wary of inferior copies. Yes, all of the above can be done with the vehicle on the ground. Waxoil probably needs to be done every year or 2, preferably on a warm still day. I'd also be careful about using the washer on seals, especially the swivel seals, as you can force water past them, into the oil.

Yep, I was looking for images of something transfer box related and all that came up were pictures of my own truck, from a thread on here. Anyway Les, you're famous in your own mind, which is all that matters

Thanks for that Ralph. Gives me a better idea than the photoshop I did! I reckon it'd increase visibility over the standard tail lights.

Good to hear you're making some progress. So who is this Redmond fella? Is he an LR person? Where abouts in Dublin is he?

Don't mean to hijack, but did you use standard rear indicators ? Been considering something similar but didn't really like the look of originals in that position.

... and a tad over priced. I'd do as TM suggests, look at the info posted above, ask on here if you're not sure, then order from your favourite online place.

Well, if they are anything like the screws that hold on the handbrake drum, I'm glad they were deleted. Swines to remove, and not really necessary.

Likewise Steve. My sister is busy sawing holes in her truck to fit her new clock Fitting the new gear looks to be straight forward, once I figure out a way of pulling the bearings off the old gear. New rear drive members should make a big difference, as there's not much left on them at all.

I found my local type supplier matched the price of the online places, plus you save on shipping and get them fitted. I looked for wolf rims for ages till I found a genuine ex-RUC set. Paddocks do pattern copies of wolf rims. Make sure you get tubeless rims to match your BFGs.

There were no holes for the screws. AFAIK, it's not the original transfer box, so who knows.

Thanks guys. Even though mine is an LT77, there were no countersunk screws, ala R380. Stanley blade made no impression at all, but a kitchen knife worked a treat. Input gear looks fine, so I guess the oiling plate is going its job. Going to order a cross-drilled input gear anyway.

All the leveler does is restore the rear of the truck to it's normal height when it's loaded, and that's when they are not broken. It doesn't affect handling, so generally, you don't need it. If the previous owner removed it, then they probably fitted heavier springs to compensate for it not being present.

So today, I've been hunting the clunks while taking up drive. Found that the rear drive members are worn, so new ones are on the way. Next I decided to look at the splines in the transfer box. Upon removing the PTO cover, I was confronted with a (splasher?) plate that seemed to be RTV'd in position. A bit of gently prying and it's off and I can see the taper bearing. When moving the hand brake drum, there seems to be a bit of play in the shaft. So now I'm looking at the bearing carrier, which is RTV'd or siliconed in position. Any tips on how to remove the carrier? It's quite soft ally and doesn't like being belted with a hammer! Cheers,

The links on your site seem to be broken. Is the process basically the same for a Salisbury?

That'll be this: Madman EGT Gauge Mine's fitted apart from the probe, as I can't get the turbo off

Really? I've blade ones in my 200tdi, and I'd be surprised if they were changed.

I did a bit of a buying guide for older defenders. See post #15 and #19 in this thread: buying guide

Yep, tis straight forward. I placed the half shaft in a workmate type table to hold the shaft, and a piece of wood and hammer to drift it off the shaft, as per above. Make sure you've the right CV. Took my muppet supplier 3 goes to get the right one

Me too, and never had any problems. I always look up the part numbers in the catalog and confirm that they are the same on the website, and then order over the web. Phoning English people with an Irish accent is a recipe for disaster In 5 years and maybe 20 orders to France and Ireland, they've never gotten anything wrong. I'll see you to the door......

Well, that's what I'm hoping, though I'd say I've shortened its life a bit. Am going to check the tappets at the weekend and see what that shows up.

Bloody full moon.

2 days ago, I started up the 110 to hear an unusual noise, above the usual squeak of my water pump. Opening the bonnet revealed an engine covered in oil and the filler cap sitting neatly on the radiator, where I had left it 3 days ago, after checking the oil in the dark. The unusual noise was what sounded like a squeaky tappet. I didn't hang about listening to it once I realised what had happened. A quick calculation revealed that it had done about 300 miles since then. The oil was down to below L on the dipstick and it took about 3L to bring it up to max. Just driven 70 miles today, and it seems fine. There might be a bit more noise at idle, or I might be imagining it. What would have suffered first due to lack of oil? Cheers gents - feeling a big daft today, at least it's still going, for the moment.