Gromit

Sounds interesting. Post pictures if you get to build it. I used to fly RC helicopters. I had a brief venture into RC cars, got myself a 4WD buggy. Then in the quest for lots of speed, put in a coreless motor and LiPo cells. I reckon it's good for 40mph in about 1.5 seconds, when it doesn't break itself. I've a bunch of bits here, loads of servos. Free to you if you need them, as they are just sitting unused. I'd say your best bet is to buy a cheepo 4WD buggy or truck chassis and then build on that. Tamiya are not to expensive new.

Mine doesn't get hot either. After all it's only an expansion tank, not part of the main circuit I guess. You should be able to 'see' the thermostat opening if you keep a close eye on the temp gauge. On mine the temp goes up to just over half in the first few miles, and then drops down to exactly 1/2 way as the 'stat opens. Is the top hose from the thermostat hot after a run?

Cost 180e, about 124STG, for the gauge, probe and postage to Ireland.

After pondering an EGT gauge for a while I finally got this: from Landyonline in South Africa. You can plug a variety of senders into it: K or J EGT probe Oil Temp Pressure (selectable Oil/Manifold/fuel/boost/aux) Coolant Temp Coolant level ETG screen - the probe is just sitting in the engine compartment until I fit it to the manifold Battery voltage and hour meter 2 types of inclinometer I was curious if it would interface directly with the coolant level sensor out of the Range Rover PRC7925 The sensor has a reed switch which has a high resistance when closed. To help it, I grounded the sensor to the same point as the gauge. Well, when you do this: after 5 seconds it beeps and does this: Perfect B) It also stores all maximum values and you can set max/min alarm points for EGT temp, oil pressure etc. It's backlit and easy to read. Some of the setup screens are a bit small Mounted (No connection with Landyonline, other than a happy customer)

Someone on here was looking for pictures of my Eberspacher install. It's been mounted for about 6 months, the diesel plumbed in for a month or 2. Finally got the electrics finished a few days ago. I mounted it under the LH seat, being on the same side as the battery box and diesel line. There are 2 vents, the big one blows forward and the small one to the rear. The intake is about 6" from the door. I teed into the diesel line over the rear chassis rail: Then ran a line to the fuel pump mounted on the chassis rail: and then on to the ebby. The flexi pipe is the intake, routed inboard and out of direct airflow, to stop it sucking in any nasties. Steel pipe is the exhaust. Mine came with a rheostat control, so I extended the cable with 7 core trailer lighting cable, down through the floor, along the chassis rail and up through the transmission cover. Just need to add some grommets to the cable - I only had enough to do the live and fuel pump lines. and up to the rheostat mounted on the dash. I extended the 12v wires down through the floor, along the chassis rail and into the battery box, where they run through a fuse and then to my 2nd battery. I hadn't run it since I bought it about a year ago, so after a few attempts it roared into life. B) The only slightly puzzling thing is that the rheostat control has another position anticlockwise from OFF, which seems to just slowly run the fan Does anyone else's do this? Just need to get myself the programmable timer for a toasty truck in the mornings B) B)

ok, I think this is going to scare me <racks memory> Fuel tank (Funny how that always springs to mind first - hateful job) water pump alternator power steering pump head lights (twice, moving countries) clutch master & slave front brake calipers hub seals radiator lift pump injectors injection pump hand brake added a leccy fan indicator switch rear prop UJs springs and shocks CV Door glass (I accidentally threw a screw driver through it - don't ask ) Wiper wheel box (dropped a boat on the wiper - same week as the screwdriver/window interface) That's over about 6 years of blissful Land Rover ownership To Do: new doors swivel overhaul steering box radius bushes brake pipes exhaust fix some of the water leaks before winter I look on it as a rather expensive lessons in mechanics.

After coffee, found these 2 articles on good old Wiki which helped. Tap Wrench Taps and dies Still haven't found answers to my questions though....

Yeah, I was reading that when my brain when on strike :wacko:

Good man ralph. Mine's HA9025. I got those numbers from my parts cat. but couldn't determine if it was railko or not. Paddocks confirms that FRC2916 is indeed a railko bush B)

I've to tap a hole for an EGT probe. The fitting is 1/8" NTP. So I drill an 8.5 mm hole and tap it. I've been out playing with it on some bits of steel ; I've a few questions. I've a starter and finisher tap. I assume the starter is the one with a longer smooth taper on it. What does the finisher do that the starter doesn't? What's the best lubricant to use while tapping? Paraffin? As the tap is tapered, I'm a bit confused about how far into the hole I should run the tap(s). Sorry for the basic questions, but this is all completely new to me

..and it can be disassembled and cleaned up/fettled pretty easily too

Wholes eh? Where are you seeing this?

OK, given mine's a 91 200tdi, I guess it's a Railko. I'll pull the top swivel pin to be sure before I get new shiny bits for it; Then that'll be the argument settled......................... or will it :P

Thanks for everyone's input. Does anyone know what year they changed from a railko to twin taper? My parts catalog for 1987 onwards, doesn't indicate if it is railko or not. Given the age of the truck, I'd suspect there is a bit of wear everywhere. I've no problem overhauling the swivel, just need to get the bits before I start.

Get some WD40 down into the splines . I used a piece of steel plate with 2 holes drilled in it for the bolts to the steering wheel, then placed a suitably sized socket under it in the centre. Most of the time I find that just jumping up and down while hanging on to one side of the wheel, then the other, usually works, but mine has been off a few times before, and I don't do up the centre nut that tight.

Perfect - Thank you Les

I've some play at the top of the swivel housing, such that the housing can move in and out about 0.5-1mm at the top of the swivel ball. Can this play be removed by removing shims from under the top swivel pin? thanks,

Cheers for the list. I'm just going to see what transfers over and order new parts as needed. SCREW LAMP MOUNT Are your new doors going to have lights in 'em? Very bling

See post No. 15 and No. 19 in this thread. Buying guide

Pics would be great Chris. Thanks everyone for the info

Fixed your picture for you.

Muck in the tank will end up as muck in your fuel filter. I'd be changing the filter for starters.

Hi guys, Has anyone removed the sill and B pillar from a CSW. It's a large piece that runs from the front to the rear door and contains the small 45o section to the C pillar. I've a bit of rust at the bottom of the 45o section that needs repairing. I will be removing the 2nd row door, when a new one arrives, so I guess that's half the battle. How easy or difficult is this piece to remove? Cheers,

I'm guessing the venturi effect of having the breathers terminated in the snorkel intake airflow

Thanks Les, that seems like the most economical solution