Gromit

Expect a few of these posts as I work my way through my new todo list from the NCT Right, 2nd row doors are in bits, so I'll be ordering new doors. The lock/handle is shot on one side, so I'll be getting those new and hoping all the other bits in the existing doors are salvageable. What other niggly bits will I need. I reckon on new hinge nuts and bolts and door card fasteners. Do the weather strips round the windows come off easily or should I just get new ones? How do you get the small solid glass piece out? ta muchly, (Edit to add, I suppose I should lash 2 tonnes of waxoil into the new doors as well)

So, my truck has failed its NCT on a slew of things, most of which I knew about. Oh well, now I have a proper typed up list of things to do I've been having problems with the drop arm, the nut won't stay tight, even with the lock tab, locktite and a second nut There also seems to be play in the arm, which is probably what is loosening the nut. I'm not 100% sure where the play is. I don't think its the bearing in the box Do the splines of the drop arm wear, or the shaft of the steering box, or both. Would I get away with a new drop arm or do I need a new box? It's a 4 bolt box BTW. Cheers,

Muppet

ok, so I finally got myself a portasol iron. Looks like a piece of kit. One thing I can't figure out is what the hell the paperclip type thing is! It isn't a handle for the sponge, it's not a rest for the iron, it doesn't help taking the tips off, in fact it doesn't fit anywhere. The only use I can find for it is scratching my head.

the Da's Laguna is something like 6" longer than the 110, and wider.

I reckon it's worth buying a Haynes - they're pretty good for most things Land Rover. Not sure on a TD, but in general: Remove gubbins to get access to the starter. This could be airbox, washer tank, exhaust downpipe etc. It's worth making yourself extra space to work in. Disconnect battery earth. Disconnect live wires to starter Disconnect solenoid live. Unbolt buts/stud holding starter in position. Access can be a PITA to these nuts. A combination of long extension bars or spanners with another spanner on the end for leverage works well. Manoeuver starter out. Watch you don't bash things like brake lines with the starter, as there's some weight in it when it's hanging from your fingertips. Fix starter. Refit. Beer.

You know, I though I heard someone mention that it was out of production already? Anyone know for sure?

Ahh yes, that'll be my legs shattering, as the wife drives over them.

interesting little teeny winch on the back. What's the tube on the roof for? I've seen them a few times.

Is this where the return line banjo connects to the side of the injector? If so, you'll find copper washers either side. They work harden with age and don't tighten properly. Just replace the washers and you're set

I've a Prestolite in mine for the last 4 years or so and not had any problems with it. Before I changed it, I had the old starter out about 3 times. Same symptoms as you, worked fine on the bench but wouldn't engage when fitted it. Earth and lives to the starter & solenoid checked. Ended up replacing the starter which fixed it.

Had my first *ever* Land Rover puncture about a year ago. I've had 3 in the last 3 months. I put down to general weirdness/something out of balance in the universe etc.

Been there, done that; I'm a fully paid up member of the muppets

If one front wheel raised won't turn, then is stuck on. The lever might be partially seized/mucky and preventing it moving to the full extent of its travel to unlock.

That wouldn't be the case if one wheel was raised, as there'd be no transmission wind to hold the diff in the locked position. If you just spin the raised wheel back and forth, it should unlock. To your original question, it sounds like the lock is ok and it's the switch that's at fault.

To see if the diff lock is actually working, when you engage it, you should notice that the steering/handling is noticeably different in that it doesn't like turning on hard surfaces. Only do a short test, as locking the diff on hard ground is not too nice on the transmission. Otherwise you can jack up one front wheel. It should turn freely with the diff out, and not turn when the diff is locked.

Am busy this evening, but can call round to your work at lunch, what ever time suits ya.

The UJs are only supposed to be phase when the input and output are parallel. On the front prop you'll find the the diff pinion is probably high so the input and output are not parallel. So to stop vibration, the UJs are assembled out of phase, but at something like 30degrees* *This angle is probably completely wrong. You can compare to mine if ya want.

What about Michelin's version, the Tweel.

Just heard this on the news. So sad. Was just watching a compilation of his driving the other day. What a great driver and sportsman.

Don't know if this is of any use to anyone, but I'd have liked to have known this info about a month ago. Here's how to spot a tubed and tubeless wolf rim. The tubeless one is stamped ANR4583 TUBELESS, as it's genuine. The tubed one is pattern and isn't stamped with anything (hence much confusion ). The main difference is that the tubeless one on the left has a defined bead seat, where as the tubed one does not: If there's a tyre on the rim, then the bead seat can be spotted from the outside: Tubeless: Tubed: It can also (more easily) be spotted from the inside of the rim: Tubeless: Tubed: HTH, and if you already knew how to suck eggs.......

Nice one, thanks guys.

Have you asked the Lovely Samantha? Where's the Satnav? "Stevie Weavie"

Yep, its a defender, as per my sig Here's a picture. Suppose if I drilled where directly below the turbo, I could fish out the swarf.

Tis a 200tdi, so no EGR.