Gromit

I fitted a new rad a few weeks ago. Each day, after a full temp run, the level was down a bit. I'd refill and it'd do the same the next day. Took about 3 days to settle down and expel all the air, even though I'd been careful when filling it initially.

It's a few years since I fitted my replacement, but it was from Paddocks I think. I remember lying on my back with my knees bending the cradle into position. It did fit though, with a bit of persuasion. Maybe see how the old compares to the new, when you get the old one off.

What I can do is take a pic of the gaiter on my lt77, then you'll know if it's the same as the one for your 380

ok, after a lot of searching, in the body and chassis part I found the gaitor. It doesn't look like it's specific to the box. BTR1698

Can't find the gaiter for either box in my catalog. Where is Ralph these days anyway? Just go commando

After I put the lift in, I had some mad vibration from the rear prop shaft, as the gearbox output and diff pinion were no longer parallel. I got Jez's cranked rear trailing arms to try cure the vibes. The crank in the arm corrects the downward angle which can be hard on the bush where the trailing arm mounts to the chassis. They helped a bit but didn't cure it. After much measuring and farting about by me, Jez made up some 6mm shims to go between the chassis bush and the arm, to move the diff pinion down. This cured the vibrations. Can take some pictures if it makes it clearer.

Cheers, I keep forgetting about it Maybe a mod could move this, or will I repost?

I'm pretty sure there's a difference in tune between a defender and disco 200tdi, as the quoted hp figures are different, might not be turbo boost though.

That's the one ahead of the pinion bearing? That number is the only gasket round that area. So, I reckon you're right.

bump I only have one LR product and I feel the need for a second one that I can detach when it breaks. Anyone help me choose?

Mine's standard and tops out at 0.8 bar. I think disco tuned 200tdi are a smidge higher, maybe 1 bar.

When I put in the lift, I left the standard brake lines in and put the truck on an axle twister to see. It is just borderline. At full articulation the pipe is straight with a sharp bend at each end. A few more mm and it'd be under serious strain, so I extended mine for peace of mind. Last thing you want is a fun day out straining the lines and have one go pop on the way home I've a rear one to go in, but haven't got around to it yet as its less on the limit. Don't know about the 2" and 1 1/2" thing, never heard of it. Where did you see this? Straps are only when you want to jack up the chassis and want to axle to lift too, such as jacking with a high lift. The straps are normally left disconnected.

Interesting. Mine krunches all the time too. Thought it was a feature, not a bug.

Yeah, I meant the back of a 90 compared to the back of a 110, from the back of the 2nd row seats to the rear door.

If I was doing it again, I wouldn't buy a kit. I'd get a fan from a scrappy and Simons thermostat. At the time I fitted this, I didn't have a scrappy near me and I didn't know a while pile The brackets aren't exactly fabrication. They could be done with a drill and a hacksaw.

They actually came with a kit that I bought from Famous Four, but they are very simple. Just a length of steel with a hole in each end. Pics to follow.

90 or 110? How high do you want to go and why? Do you have a winch which will make the nose heavier? In general, you can lift by up to 2" without needing to change many other components. Even at 2", you will have less steering self-centering, and your prop shafts will have a harder life. I've just lifted my 110 by 2". I used britpart springs, which people have 'mixed' views of. DeCarbon shocks. Extended brake lines Cranked trailing arms from Jez on here, plus a few shims correct the rear diff position.

my leccy fan is secured by four brackets that fix to the four 'corners' of the fan. Two brackets run to the top studs for the original viscous cowling. The bottom two are drilled into the mount below the rad. It's secure and no cable ties to damage the actual radiator.

Couldn't you remove the injection pump inspection cover from the timing cover and drill and tap that?

Door stop?

What engine? Would have thought a dead lift pump would only affect the top end, when the FIP can't pull enough fuel on its own. Should idle ok with a dead lift pump. Lift pump is a cheap and easy fix, but your idle problem sounds like something else

This is covered in Les' post in the tech archive.

Evening All, Does anyone have a link to info on Sankeys other than the 3/4 ton version? I have the tech handbook for the 3/4 ton version. Is the widetrack the 1 1/4 ton version? is it the same track as a defender? Ta muchly for any info, and if you're near me and have one, gimme a shout.

Personally, I think defenders are the only vehicle that look good in white. Dunno why really, normal cars in white just look poo.

Never driven a 90, but, as has been said by everyone else, the only thing that really lets a 110 down is the turning circle. Not a problem normally, you just swing more into tighter corners. Where I notice this most is reversing into a parallel parking spot. Where as a normal car (and presumably a 90) can reverse in at an acute angle and then swing the nose in, the 110 has to take much a shallower angle in and then manoeuver the nose in. Just practice really. Can't be beaten really though for the space/people you can carry, plus you've the option of a longer roof rack. I keep meaning to check, is the loadspace in a CSW 110 exactly the same as a 90?