Anderzander

Excellent Simon -thank you. Two questions: any noticeable affects from cutting the brace? Looking at this pictures I found - I would guess not: http://www.briandorey.com/docs/defender-crossmember-replacement/11-floor-supports-fitted.jpg And, any measurements from the side ? To place it across the width of the floor ? Thank you

Shock droppers and longer shocks ..... Do you have lifted springs that matches that ?

Excellent ! That can be done with a nanocom for future reference. The alarm can be set up as nothing more than a check for the ECU to make - if it's not there it won't start.

Yes please ! I can file it away for when I'm ready. I've been looking around to see if there is some kind of hath or cover that I could fit to make it a bit neater too. Found a few marine hatches of the right size, but they are all plastic.

I seem to keep saying this on the 'td5 won't start threads' and it's never the problem ! .... But on mine it would crank and not start and it was a broken earth from the ECU - so I ran a dedicated earth from the ECU straight to the battery.

Mine came from eBay and I made up some legs for it:

Get all of them Nigel....

I'm in the process of setting mine up. I'm putting a condenser on the airline, using a blast pot with a proper valve/gun run into the machine, and I've got a Hoover to rig up on the filter to extract the dust. Essentially I'm copying a friends set up that works very well .....

Are there some pictures that I can't see ?

As I've got older I seem to prefer the sound of a nice diesel ?

That's good info - thank you ! I'm learning loads The supply is ok - the purple permanently live feed into the back of the td5 is for a trailer supply and is unused and fused at 30amps under the seat. I'll put a 5 amp fuse on for the light and a 1 amp for the switch side. Incidentally google has told me the diode is rated at 1a and 100v.

How strange - stick a 'j' on the end and it's sold by jaguar for 11pence ? http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/251839/0/diode_pektro

Wow - thanks Maverik. For ease of wiring it would be better to run the warning light from the switch side of the circuit, rather than the light side. Hopefully there is no issue with that as it would save another wire running the full length of the Landy. Should be OK, as that must be how an illuminated switch works? I just googled 'land rover defender diode' and bizarrely it found a post from Ralph: Quite expensive for what it is ? If I can confirm its the one behind the warning lights it might serve to provide a rating.

I don't know for the others - but a plus for the nanocom is the excellent support from the (new) manufacturer. There is also a lot of people with them, which helps for picking up information from the net.

Thanks - I've been trying to trace the circuits for the brake light and it's dual feeds and that has a diode on each feed. I'll do some more digging and see if I can find out the specs for them. Using the existing warning light is perhaps a bit pedantic, but it's a learning exercise and will end up looking a little more factory fit.

It is similar isn't it - the difference being I think that the RDX one doesn't need additional brackets as it picks up on the original fittings.

I have an early TD5 and wanted to keep as much storage on the dash shelf as possible, so I bought a radio for a motorbike. It has USB and an SD card slot and is tiny. Cheap as chips too.

First thing is to look behind the centre panel (the one with the rear wash wipe on etc) and see what's there. You probably have a radio connector (not sure mine was an iso one though) - you may even have an aerial cable? Perhaps you can take a look and report back with either a description or photo?

I must be tired, I was thinking 'onion ?! - what onion !?' .... I'll get my coat ..... That's helpful - thank you. Any info on feeding into the rear fog warning light ? Would I need a diode to stop current bleeding back into the other circuit ? It's a fair point ! I think I only planned it that was so I could run thinner wire to the front switch. Mines a 2000 td5 so no centre console - I wanted a separate warning light and if I can on the dash. I also seemed to struggle to find an on / on switch with a warning light ? It's a two way circuit - you only need to click one / either switch to turn the light on or off. Like a two way circuit in most house stairs. I want to be able to turn it on and off from either the drivers seat or the back door.

A query to stop me setting fire to anything I'm wiring in my work light and will be using this circuit : There are a couple of things that I don't know about that I'd like to do.... I want to fit a warning light - I've seen them running off the switched live to the actual work light - but I'd like to put one on the earthed side of the switch. What I'd further like to do is make dual use of the fog light warning light on the dash. In the same way that the brake warning light works for the brake fluid level and the hand brake... So can I just wire into that warning lights feed ? Do I need to put some sort of capacitor on both circuits to stop the live bleeding back from one to another ? Lastly - looking at the warning light circuit the led just puts a feed to earth - can I therefore simply run the earth from my switch straight into the LED ? Apologies for the ignorance

Has anyone seen, or fitted, one of the RDX rear door panels ? My original one is a bit shabby - so any info on the RDX ones much appreciated. http://bit.ly/16E7Ctg

If it's a td5 - then even if it's not fitted - then chances are some of the wiring is there. As above - which year is it ? That'll tell what type of dash you have.

Not having a PC - I haven't got the first one :-/

It's rubbish when you are bidding on something on eBay and the seller pulls it to sell it off-line

I didn't know that ..... And I bought one a while back to go on the back, that's probably got a long tube. Perhaps have to cut it down. Thanks Ralph.