sharkey964

Hi guys. I need a bit of advice here with a problem I have with my 300 tdi getting too hot. When climbing long steep hill's,at motorway speeds. outside temperature 25+ degrees,the gauge heads up to the red.I can cool it down by turning the heater on full.But not ideal when it's that hot outside. I have changed the thermostat and flushed the system.Made no difference.... I'm thinking of fitting a Kenlow.But after reading conflicting reports on here,I don't want to shell out for one and it not make any difference. Oh...I do have a winch fitted,which is obviously having the effect of blocking some of the air flow through the radiator. I've got a trip to Portugal planned for September so I could do without the problem. Any advice please. Marc.

Mmmmmm,I lickey that.

OK, A final update on this one..... After replacing just about everything. I changed the diff for another second hand one.Problem solved. I have inspected the one I took off and can't see any faults......But,hey ho. It's right now.:-))) Thanks for all your input on this one guys.It's much appreciated. Marc.

I have a similar problem with my 110,that's been going on now for over a year. A vibration felt through the steering wheel at around 50mph,that is most noticeable when on the power going up a slight incline. I have checked or replaced everything. All bushes and ball joints are new,polybush red's in the radius arms,new bushes in the A frame,new uj's.etc,etc. The only thing that has stopped it completely is to take the front prop off,and run in diff lock. So you would think that would point to a problem with the prop???I have tried 3 different props and the vibration persists. I am now looking at,trying a brand new prop,then if that makes no difference,(as I expect it won't)I'm going to swap the diff. It seems to be a common problem,that lots of people have.

I got a meter length from a company on ebay,(sorry I can't remember the name).They had different diameters and you can buy it by the meter. IIRC it was 63mm diameter.

It's a later one with the slider towards the rear.

But surely,if it were wheels out of ballance,it would do it all the time,not just when the power is on. Plus,I would expect it to vibrate at certain speeds and not other's.

I have an anoying vibration on my 110 300tdi. I bought the truck about 4 months ago and it's been doing it since day 1.I was very worried at first because when I picked it up I had a 800 mile trip from Wales to the South of France,where I live.I've since done aproximately 1000 miles and it's got no worse. It makes a low vibration which can be felt through the steering wheel in 2-3 second pulses(if that makes sense).It only does it under power,ie,no vibration when coasting or in neuteral. I've checked the wheel bearings,props,CV joints and difs,all apears to be ok. So......Any ideas guys??? Thanks Marc.

Sorry,it's on the right ,under the instrument binacle..Doh.Not with the switches for hazzard lights,but on the underside of the binacle.It looks factory fitted,and when pressed a warning light in the instrument cluster saying 24v lights up.

Whilst cleaning my 110 today,I noticed a switch I had'nt seen before. It's just under the instrument binacle on the left of the steering wheel,when pressed it lights up a warning saying 24v. What is it for???

I find a blast with the air line will usualy pop out the pistons.

My son works for an agricultural contractor over here,so obviously the tractors are run on red.BUT, whilst driving a tractor on a road you are limited to 25kmh. He was pulled doing 45kmh,tank dipped(red in tank),he was made to get someone to come out,empty the tank,put white in and fined 180€.

I did last years Mille Rivieres,there were a few teams from Holland driving G waggens.(fantasticly capable vehicles). On the down side, they all said,when they go wrong the parts are stupid money.

Well,my 90 is an off roader,so yes it gets a lot of use with lockers engaged in forward and reverse. I'll try thread lock and spring washers. I'll let you know after this weekend's off roading if this makes any diference.

I have the same problem with both my 90 & 110,no spring washers are fitted to either. So.....Looks like I'll be fitting some.:-)))

Will you be on the Camel stand Mav,or will I just have to look out for your truck in the car park?:-)))

Are they any good????

How does that Diflock drain plug work then....Why is it better than a standard one???

No!!! Unfortunately not.My Series 1 is currently in rebuild phase.So it'll be the 110.

It's a 300tdi. If I don't have any luck finding a replacement,I'll probably go this route.

Well I'm off to Billing at the weekend,so I'll see what I can find there on the auto jumble!

Hi folks, Doh!!!! I have stripped the thread on my sump pan.I have replaced the plug,but it still wont tighten up properly, so my question is. Do I need a new sump pan,or is there something I can do to seal it? I thought about thread lock or something like that????

My pivot pin used to creak like mad,never stuck down though.I lubed it and it's now smooth and quiet.Happy days.

I've found General grabber AT2's to be a good all round tyre,and not too expensive. I'm currently running Cooper Discoverer STT's on my 110,it's too early to give a decision on longevity,but in all other areas I have no complaints.Though I find them slightly noisier than AT2's.Only to be expected as they are a slightly more agressive tread patern.

I have'nt seen any evidence for one against the other.My thinking is,so long as you keep it well lubed with EP90 or one shot,you wont get any problems. We drive Landys after all,not racing cars.:-)))