ianmayco68

Nissens not Nissan, Apparently Land Rover altered them , there’s a tech article on the web somewhere the stepson found it and when I looked there’s a thread on here about it it blocks the bottom two outlets off from the fuel cooler and you put that ali bit into the end of the fuel cooler too restrict the flow .

No worries mate .

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35mm-to-76-2mm-1-5D-Mandrel-Tube-Bend-304-Stainless-Steel-or-Mild-Steel-Degree/232848894736?var=532371002010&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3636e02b10:m:m58-G9U-HVH9pWiyy70EGbg&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKprB7XQ6kzQrRwmk40BQLKC7iabfss9sTwE6WJGe5PAX%2FJ5WIWgkvq3KJaUnsmJduGM7Y9DAMHpaw5B2Rqkqy%2BYpwmUssgMRDpXqJPXgdDyPxmH7l1F%2FOW2NGUZuzEYULKrmS8RrqSVbhwJ%2FeLOmzWg1sWRQ3cWFJ%2FUkQRRYvud0Xe725p5Ia%2F2DJTF3gS0HoPglJr4fGmTHVXEb00ZhkFEtYyguDYSwB%2Bb%2BYJA%2BCeaU3ujxJAAthNzhLDIEtSt6eD64Q4k0sK85ZJysJWXly6s6E1GOSTlJbRBVBG1S4qD%2BWGG0H1bPe%2FLe%2BDOLcmoBPHFh89joYeK3TYL0gRttOUu0r7CaoIVkLe5HaPg821ZRMH28ArmyLOInQ3F%2FXIlNr9RsfaBM1PfuSrlmwomiG7iQDMAqPrcWzrK8Q2yLy83z%2Bc35IGBEsz%2FDQts%2FMHGvkdolt1APvJqwy9FgpdGsi%2BQfhUBFwhUlNW1yXq2X606UO%2B6%2BZTwWDjxlAaTrPrdHxhbdSid%2FLKPrz%2FBncYQjcq7wJdoSY1WQYuAXi%2Fqilu1Qs6RJMnITMMC7tOmi2hqGzH%2F%2BYN0P5dsTDkmkPchHr9swrE%2BykR9h5121xwDDh9wHdNroB%2FdM2723QqVvCcqqJZTvjn8WsdOGIUA5wOLhaUq%2BtqYhKp7cAPVadzz%2BEKBppNReQMnFiBFqtkHFqto6LMzb%2BGlBigquSUu3SWVjm0xFHIKPXiomjysks3uWsCEgbqD%2FCi2jYssPLwovthd6Kyzf1a0wNchq2Xkzl213ccg%3D%3D&checksum=232848894736880d66e3a1e246d285149dde1a17a65c jesus good job I didn't try and write that isn't it , is that what your after ?

Neither have I Mo , and I had a Freelander for a few years .

Thank you Giles , I’ll have a look for those too 👍.

Thank you sgo70 , no it certainly taxes the grey matter , once I get it all working I’ll measure everything and do some drawings and post them up for everyone else even if they want to do it differently it will give them a start .

Thank you , it's been a lot of head scratching and brain meltdown try to work out how to do it so you can change the motor if need be without stripping the whole lot down , and I still need to work out how to up load a video for when it goes tis up .

No they're a rite PIA even to tighten the bolts up when you do manage to clean them out , put your finger inside there and make sure it's only the hole that's blocked with Galv and there's no blobs of Galv on the underside inside there as the plate with the nuts welded on that slides in there won't sit flat and you'll struggle like hell to get the bolt's in .

Just a thought but have you checked if there's galv build up inside there each side the hole ? As when I did mine there was and I couldn't get the captive nut plates in there so I could put the bolts in had to clean them out with a chisel , luckily I tried before I put the body on .

Looking good mate .

They don't look bad value .

If you've got a rotary file bit for a drill put it in some locking pliers and try cleaning it that way.

Well went for it anyway , problem I had was fixing it at the top and the vents but as said above I can make some of those myself that fit the space , was thinking along these lines , so first up decided in the end to just cut a piece out , next cut the motor mounting plate down and drill a couple of holes , then tacked the frame together and that will fit in like this , drilled the mounting holes out and fitted some rivnuts , so I then had to come up with some way to keep the top fixed , so onto bracket time ,with a few marking out tools , a hammer , a vice , a grinder and that small drawing with a few measurements on it we started , first was to mark it out with chalk , then we attack it with the grinder , and you end up with this , then the fun bit , into the vice and bash it with the hammer , stress relief till you end up with this , the corners will be welded up and the sides trimmed down , and fitted you end up with this , then with it drilled and bolts in , it might need trimming at the right side when the vent is made but otherwise I can't see any problems , the legs on top of the bracket will have foam on there to stop vibrations and I'll cut this up , and fit the rubbers into the holes to dampen the vibrations , next job is to fit it together and see it run will take a video but not sure how to upload them .

It's okay he's found the LR write up on internet .

Hi all looking for a bit of help for the stepson as I don’t know a lot about td5’s , he’s got an early td5 2000 and the rads knackered so ordered a new one from britcar , rad came a nissens jobbie but it’s modified it fits all td5’s but the bottom two outlets on the rad are blocked and there’s a small ali thing you put in the fuel cooler , has anyone had to do this with there rad and did you bother with the thing in the cooler above ? Any help much appreciated as always cheers Ian.

While everyone’s about, continuing with the wipers mod my thinking is, cut this in half , as I won’t need passenger side bit , going to remake vents and fit them differently, trim this down , weld this together to make the bracket , meant to keep the disco mounting plat as it’s got the park marked on corresponding to the motor mounting holes , then lengthen the operating rod below , the rod fits between the two spindle arm’s like this, to move it over to the end here , can anyone see any pitfalls or problems I haven’t thought of ? Before I cut the backing plate 😁 .

Cheers Fridge your a gentleman 👍.

Yes had same thoughts , but with a coolant heater and heater matrix and blower then use a bilge blower to send it through to the cabin , could incorporate a coolant cut off valve for cold air .

The missis does, that was my thinking Dave but thought I’d run it past people, even though we live very rural and frequently follow slurry and muck carts , you get used to the smell after a bit hahahaha . Thinking about it I used to have the ricirc turned off on mine for the reasons you say .

Cheers Fridge , that’s the answer I was expecting hahaha , but good idea about breakers on eBay better still there’s a 4x4 breakers in Wolverhampton might see if they are still open 👍.

Very nice landy-andy, have read through your threads Fridge and lots of useful info in there , and thank you to everyone , first question of many I’ve found the part number for the freelander earthing blocks YPC10004 & YPC10611 the later being the 8 pole one so apart from scrapyards which are no go at the minute does anyone know of somewhere I might be able to buy some from ? Did search internet but got lots of Chinese writing and nowt on eBay .

Well back on this again due to the lockdown and I'm starting to feel it again , so first up change of plan I'm still doing the wiper MOD and looking at modding the heater but decided to use the original dash and alter it . My thinking being there isn't a lot of room in there anyway and maybe Land Rover got the dimensions rite , so the last thing I want is to do it all , then drive the damn thing and find out it's more uncomfortable than normal . So the center console stays , firstly made some tabs to weld to the inside so the bear shifter and trans box lever plates can be screwed down , that was the second attempt as got the length wrong first time will use self tappers to hold them down there's no weight or force on them so should be fine .Next was to strip the vinyl of the dash top and bottom and cut the center out leaving the brace across the middle . cut the front plate too far across oooppppssss , then the end part that's separate which houses the wiper motor got some spacing plates tacked on and will eventually be welded to the other part of the dash , as the wiper motor will live higher up from now on , so once tacked together and I make sure it fits the top and some of the inside can be removed . Once this far I turned my attention to the section that will join the center console to the dash , first a couple of angled steel which will be riveted to the bulkhead each side of the center section , then a couple of flats one drilled and tapped the other drilled and counter sunk so the bottom section can be attached to the center console , it will also screw together at the sides but can't work that out till I've made the lower section , this is a piece of box section with the one face removed it will be used as a cover over the two flats when together and look like it is meant to be there , hopefully . Then lastly the upper part of the frame the bottom will be one of the flats , So that's about it not a lot accomplished but were getting there , would like thoughts on the heater I've been watching Brittanic restorations video on modding the heater , he alters his and draws the air from inside the truck , what's peoples thoughts on this good or bad idea ? cheers Ian

I use this one for econoseal connectors . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282090702854

That’s brilliant thank you FridgeFreezer 👍 , I’ll have a good read of those , I’ve already done the chassis harness complete with connectors and the engine harness and the auto gearbox loom so it’s just the main loom but as we all know cock that up and the rest is useless. I’ve already got quality crimpers and other electrical tools I’ve brought overtime, loads of cable ties and plenty of shrink tube and terminals and connectors , only things I need to buy are cable which I do have quite a bit in my electrics box and relays who’d have to buy anyway plus even if I bought an Autosparks loom I’d still have to buy cable and bits to wire the extras in like heated screen .

This is what I remember there was a post about it a few years ago https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-unit-blue.html .