Retroanaconda

Most decent PMR radios will give you a much better range than that, I have a Motorola XTN446 which I use for airsoft games and that has done me good for several miles over open terrain, but as they're limited to 0.5W they won't be able to match the transmission/reception distances of CB or amateur radio bands. Still, a very cheap way of achieving it. A decent double-pair of hand-held PMRs can be had for £50 odd

Still trying to work out how to program said devices?

Hmm, maybe that's why the dowpipe seems to be slipping off on mine....there's quite a worrying gap between the turbo and the top of the downpipe Need to look into this bracket stuff methinks

Yeah, what you can see is actually the reflection off the back window...going forwards. So you can see the back of your head and the road in front of you (so oncoming car lights/traffic lights/etc). Personally I think it's really cool

If the vehicle is turning over at a normal speed (mine does pretty fast, even in the cold) but doesn't catch that would indicate to me that it isn't a battery problem, and is fuel-related or possibly a compression issue.

Did you leave the vehicle for a while? I didn't use mine for 6 days and on trying to start it it took me a good ten seconds worth of cranking to get it to fire. I think the fuel had drained back into the pump/filter/tank while it had been left. Not sure it's supposed to do that...but it did. Once it had started it was running fine. And it started as normal the next day too.

Dunno if I'm reading what you've written wrongly, but there's nothing legally stopping me buying a new galvy chassis and fitting that...the VIN will just migrate across and I will scrap the old one. If you weren't trying to make a point to the contrary, I apologise

Well I'm planning a re-build of the truck on a shiny galvanised chassis in 2010, so if I can get it to hold out 'till then I'm good

I also quite like the fact that in Firefox I can just type 'g keywords' in the address bar and it searches for 'keywords' in Google Same goes for e (eBay), y (YouTube), w (Wikipedia) etc, although I had to set them up.

Rear cross-member was done shortly before I bought the car. That said, I will check it anyway. I'm thinking a big old nail and a hammer? With just the hammer it's kinda hard to get into some places. Thanks for the replies, just the info I needed. Will pop to Craddock's tomorrow and ask them how much a repair would be so I know what I'm in for next year.

G90's, as per these I think... 5 x G90 on eBay

Just forward of the spring hanger on the off-side I believe. From what I read of the government website linked above a second-hand chassis from another vehicle would cause issues with the points system (being worth 5 against your score), whereas a new direct replacement 300tdi chassis will be fine as it's just a replacement part.

So poking around under the Defender earlier, as you do, I found two problem areas. First the offside front outrigger... And then the nearside dumb iron attatchment... What I would like to know is, are these going to constitute an MOT failure when it comes around next April, and are they going to be repairable. I would think so, but then I have no experience of welding chassis repairs, hence asking you guys. Cheers

Fair enough, can't argue with that!

How many amps are you guys pulling!? I'm no expert, but do cables really have to be *that* hefty? Although I suppose it can't hurt.

Do all the welding/modifications you need to if there are any, and then have it galvanised

Oooh, good choice of colour

Well it connects to the frame that holds the glass in. And there's good continuity between the connector and the main vehicle body. I wouldn't be suprised if all the elements are knackered to be honest.

For what it's worth, when I switch mine on I get 12V at the start of the elements (bottom connector) on the window pane....but it still doesn't de-mist no matter how long I leave it for. I think maybe I need to get a new rear window pane with new elements on.

Thanks for the interesting inputs guys, great help. I think I'll likely end up with a set of BFG A/Ts. The General Grabber AT2s look to be a copy of those, and I do like BFG so I think they'll fit the bill well. Also matches the use of the truck I am managing at the moment, with more on-road than off Thanks again.

Hmm, well I would quite like to go with BFG tyres again. These perform brilliantly and appear to have lasted for a long time, and the general consensus is that they are a good brand of tyre. And I'll be buying new tyres rather than remoulds too I think. Thanks for the input guys

Just a quickie. I have BFG Trac Edge tyres on my truck at the moment, they seem to be very good too, but they are old and will need replacing some time soon. Just wondering, what would be the present-day equivalent in terms of BFG MTs or ATs? They look slightly more MT to me, but I'd like the better opinion of others too What I actually put on the vehicle may well be different depending on what I'm using it for most at the time, but it would be good to know what option would be the 'stay the same' one. Cheers

My 90 with 'Disco steels' and BFG Trac Edge's (woot, retro tyres )

That's amazing it's a full 8 or 9 degrees centigrade warmer here in Stafford, but 30 miles away. What a difference altitude makes. Hope you've all got your heaters working

One of many reasons I don't wish to have alloys on a Defender. Makes it more attractive for theft