Retroanaconda

A Defender with a galvanised chassis/bulkhead/other steel parts, a decent powerplant (so a modified 200tdi as Les suggested), and locking axle diffs. That's what I'd build.

I had the same with one of my rear lights. Wasn't working, but undoing the earth screw, cleaning the contact surfaces, and re-fixing it made it work again

Surely that won't allow any oil to drain out that needs to?

It will be fairly obvious, as one terminal will be insulated from the mounting so that it doesn't just short out the signal, and the other will just fix straight to the mounting. I have one of these mounts on the back of my truck, works very well

Is the new law next year going to retro-spective then? I would have thought it would be one of these 'applies to vehicles registered after XXXX' things :S

I am happy to be in any group required, don't know any of you in person so it's a level playing field as it were I wouldn't be a good choice to lead a group I'm afraid, nowhere near enough experience

Sounds unlikely, but did you try it in low range?

Any key that will physically fit in the lock should do it.

Yep same here. I haven't named it, but it's definately a she

That's why I have a hardware firewall in my router, stops simple attacks anyway. Hell, it may be possible for my PC to be compromised, but it's been okay so far and I'll cross that bridge when I get to it...at which point it'll probably fall down Still, I back up all my data anyway...so I'd just re-format. Gives the PC a good clean up and refresh

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/A...lar_lights.html Might be worth a look. I'm considering one at some point

I've found the '4x4 specialist' insurance companies are useless. For example, I phoned Footman James and they quoted me over £1,800. When I told the girl at the other end that Churchill had quoted me £800 and Swinton £650 she couldn't believe it...

I wouldn't be inclined to have them come on with main beam, even if it were legal. I intend to put a light bar on my Defender with four lights, and when I do I will have them controlled by two switches. One for the outer two (angled very slightly outward to give a wider field of light) and one for the inner two. Switches fed from permanent live so they'll work regardless of ignition status. Don't need them for everyday driving, it's more for any navigation off-road/turning round in tight spots/area illumination etc, as the standard lights are very much focused forward-only

This is very true. I used to not bother with back-ups of important data, and then one of my HDDs died on me and I lost a load of stuff. In the end I got it back by soldering on a controller board from another HDD, but that's not the point. Suffice to say I now have a second HDD and run a complete back-up every 3 days

Oh I understand the risks of websites making use of exploits in browser software, but I simply keep the apps up to date and run the risk. Simply can't be bothered with the software. Although Windows Defender does it's thing in the background, and as that's part of Vista I let it be. Dunno how effective it is, but it seems to get updated reguarly...and doesn't seem to do any harm

I've been using computers my whole life and have never had any anti-virus or firewall software....and haven't had any problems yet! Viruses can't download themselves to your computer, despite what some companies/people would have you believe, so be sensible in what you open and you'll be fine.

Vista really isn't all as bad as a lot of people would have you think. It's only slow and bogs down your system if you're trying to put it on a system not designed for it. The specs you list are very much capable of running Vista. Unless you have legacy apps you need to run, Vista is the best option I find I still run XP on my laptop, only because with 1GB of RAM it doesn't quite cut the mustard

I have bits of a Hammerite flyer wedged in mine at the moment....

I would wire them through a relay, to a fuse, then to the battery positive. Ideally the fuse as close to the battery as possible. Then switch the relay with a switch on your dash, which you can then feed via an ignition-switched live or a permanent one, depending on the behaviour you want. All wiring ideally protected in some way, and of the correct gauge for the relvant current. Hope that helps

I think he means when he blocks the snorkel.....

It's designed so that any water entering the snorkel top from rain etc is expelled out the sides. Apparently.

http://www.nationalwindscreens.co.uk/ They do them I *think*

I've always just put a few drops of 3-in-1 oil on the key and worked it in and out a few times. Has never failed me

It's the one with the cog and the '!' isn't it?

I took mine to a jetwash at a petrol station near my house...people started giving me weird looks when I jetwashed the interior floors...and under the bonnet