Paul

Ali You could try Triumph Rover Spares in Adelaide 08 83846933 http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au/ They often have a Defender or two in being wrecked. Paul

Hi Wally I'd recommend you talk to Karcraft in Sydney. Ph (02) 97379944 They carry a wide range of LR parts, but according to their catalogue, they only have a genuine replacement for a 300tdi Vac pump. Part No is ERR3539 and price is $372.69 + gst + freight. Paul

So is mone, from a mid-80s Mitsubishi. That's note quite correct. The refrigerant is not a lubricant. In A/C systems the lubricant is an oil that is added into the closed system and circulates around with the refrigerant. When you open the system, the oil is eventually lost through the outlet, and must be replaced in some other way. Exactly what I did. Take the head off, cut off the old flare threads and tap it out to bsp.

Will you be finding your way to Adelaide Col?

I agree! Tony, can you fix it for us mate?

Australian spec Defenders always had an extra bit on the rear to accomodate the bigger plates, before different sizes were available. It's a genuine fitting, but it looks like a bit of a bodge doesn't it.

Tom It's an easy job to remove the head from the compressor and cut off the odd flare fittings. You can than drill and tap the alloy head for standard size bsp fittings. There's some photos in the Tech Archive thread. Paul

Unfortunatly, you're quite right. A 78 series troopie covers almost everything you want. They come standard with twin fuel tanks for a total of 180litres, are as big as a 110, have a mid size 4.2 litre turbo diesel that is old tech and easy to fix but only average in power & torque, a much stronger driveline than any Landrover, air con that's acceptable (compared to a Defender which isn't), coil springs up front and, outside of Europe, far better parts availability. What you will miss out on is coil springs for the rear, although conversion kits are easy to pick up, and an auto trans, but you can't have that in a Defender either without it being a custom job. Of course the big thing you'll miss is that certain...special...something, that only a Landrover has...

I'm from Adelaide, South Australia. You know, the driest state on the driest continent, yada, yada... Jeez, I need a drink.

Apparently the driver couldn't explain how she managed it. The "L" plate on the windscreen doesn't come as a surprise though!

It's a Nissan Pathfider from the 80s. IIRC, crappy torsion bar front suspension and leaf spring rear, part time 4wd, with an athsmatic little 2.4L petrol engine. Quite small overall, not much bigger than a 90 and far less capable. There were a few sold here in Oz. Definitely no yank TANK.

35 on road 25 on dirt road/tracks 18 sand on a 110 of course

I have a copy of the Disco water ingress bulletin, issued by LR. PM with your email address me if you'd like a copy and I'll send it through.

I agree with Tony here. Most of the EGT kits you buy have 6mm thermocouples included (as my VDO kit did), and whilst a 3mm thermocouple might be better, there isn't enough in it for me to fork out the extra cash. If I stuff it up in the future, them maybe I'll use a 3mm jobbie for replacement, in the meantime, the existing one is adequate enough. Paul

Good Point.

Engine: Penrite Diesel 15 Semi Synthetic Gearbox: Castrol Syntrans 75W85 Full Synthetic Trans & Axles: Castrol Syntrax 75W90 Full Synthetic Swivels: LR One Shot, soon to be replaced by Penrite NGLI 00 grease Why? It's hot here, and synthetic lubricants do a much, much better job in the heat IMHO.

Actually, that mightn't be as silly as it first sounds. Drive for an hour on some of our heavily corrugated roads here in Australia, and the shock absorbers will soon be too hot to touch. That is, after all, what they do - convert kinetic energy into heat.

Once the dip switches are set to the right range, the fine adjustment is usually done by a small screw on the body of the gauge. I used an optical tacho to set mine because I had access to one. I was able to verify the settings at different rpms to ensure it was spot on. If you don't have access to an optical tacho, you could set it up using a timing light on a petrol engine vehicle. Mark you tdi's front pulley with a white blob of paint. Then just connect a timing light to a pertol engine car that has a tacho fitted, raise the rpm on that to say 1000rpm, and aim the timing light at your tdi's front pulley. Raise the tdi's rpm until the white dot appears stationary, then you'll know the engine is also doing 1000rpm. Then just set the tacho adjustment accordingly. Easy really.

Not for a 90, but for a 110. These might give you some ideas though: The tie down rails with the movable rings are the best bit. You can have however many rings you want, move them to wherever along the rail you need them, the take them out completely to maintain a flat floor. Once the rubber matting is glued down, you'd hardly know the rails were there. Also, I replaced the bolts under the sliding windows, which I think are used for seat mountings in other coutrries where such things would be legal, with eye bolts. Another 3 tie down points on each side.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Land-Rover-Defender...1QQcmdZViewItem If it was already registered in SA instead of WA, I reckon I'd take a punt on it!

Nah. Do it up 'til it strips, then give it it 'nutha half a turn.

I know Australia is a bit "different", but we don't have any of that nonsense at all. We've never had this trick or treat thing in our area ever. Strange really with the way Americanisation of everything seems to be rampant. It's not like we don't have the kids around either, place is full of poor little rich kids that get everything they want, no respect for anything and way too much time on their hands. Vandalising, graffitti spraying little snots. They're all fat and lazy, spend too much time with a Playstation in one hand and gawd knows what in the other and as soon as they turn 16, mummy & daddy buy them an old V8 Commodore or worse, a Skyline or some other pile of imported oriental rabbit droppings, and they use that to terrorise the neighbourhood. There, I feel better now already. Now in my day....

What has everyone else done? For wire rope the Warns have a small grub screw on the side (rope side) of the drum, used for attaching the rope with a crimped-on lug. I'm replacing the wire rope with synthetic so do I: a ) crimp another lug on it and use the grub screw again (not so keen on this as the lug will stick out into the spool of rope a fair way and they do tend to be sharp around the edges); b ) tie the rope on to the drum with a bowline or similar knot (read this as being the best idea on Pirate but I'm not keen due to the lumpiness of the knot); c ) just use some duct tape to hold the end on the drum until the first few wraps are on (also read this on Pirate as being the best idea for synthetic rope); or d ) some other bright idea that you lot can dream up.

That's be the way everyone else does it, but being Landrover, the +ve is switched. Mark90 has the answer for you, a second relay wired parallel with the first, using your switch to supply independant power, will give you a work light that doesn't turn on the reverse lights too.