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Posts posted by Bigj66
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1 hour ago, Cornish Rattler said:
I just can't reach to getting the Zues front kit this month so will save most of the money up and get it next monthĀ
Theyāve just put their prices up too š¤¦āāļø
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Will a 1mm gap suffice?
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Once the torque converter is bolted to the engine should I still be able to turn the engine over by hand?
Its an empty box at the moment just been fitted onto the chassis so no running engine.
Is there supposed to be a gap between the flex plate and the TQĀ feet when installed prior to bolting?
Should the TQ slide towards the flex plate when the bolts are tightened?
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7 hours ago, Tobias said:
I always want to keep the tc fixed for as long as possible, being a bit paranoid about the tc slipping out. The bracketin the photoĀ looks neat and if you keep that in place until the last moment, measure the depth of the tc below the mating face before you remove the bracket and then remeasure before starting to bolt it up you are fine. Also stop if you sense any resistance to "sliding in". I once had forgotten to remove the bushing in the crank nose used in manual engines when converting to auto. I stopped in time when i felt resistanceĀ but were very nervous until i could test drive it...
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good luck!
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T
Thanks. It went in today after a bit of a fight but Iāve yet to bolt up the torque converter to the flex plate so š¤š¤
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1 hour ago, Gazzar said:
Yes, I'll work on that after some food. I've next week off and aim to be engined then.
Yeah, stop slacking Gazzar š
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On 7/13/2020 at 5:17 PM, Dave W said:
Why not change/modify the bracket on the engine for one that isn't so far away ?
I can't visualise the Thor arrangement as I no longer have one but I wouldn't have thought it would be difficult to extend it so it's closer to the throttle ?
I'd rather use a custom bracket and a standard cable than the other way around... break a standard cable and you can get one anywhere in the world with a phone call.It could probably be done I suppose but thereās limited room to re-drill fixing points into the plenum.
ĀMy mitigation is to have two kick down and two throttle cables made up so Iāll always have a spare.
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15 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:
How? I'm learning here - dunce-cap on, not just from my ankle, not from vacuum servo orĀ electric vacuum pump thus vacuum, where does the extra force come from. I can only see pedal-boxes?
F1 cars use a similar principle, no servos there either, just big quads š
How would this alternative work?
I donāt know yet as I havenāt got that far and Iām undecided š¤
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44 minutes ago, Snagger said:
So another of your āif I havenāt seen it, it doesnāt existā posts...š
Well if the hat fits....
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23 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:
I lay prostrate, please educate me and others. How does greater area create greater friction at outset, yes area keepsĀ things cooler and takes longer to wear out.Ā How do these brakes and their shape, and area (not distance form axis), only area, increase friction for the same force?
Please point me to a road or race pump that creates direct braking force, not via vacuum. All the electric brake pumps I've seen are vacuum. It's not possible to store hydraulic pressure, outside of a Citroen set-uo. How do they work so quickly? The Citroen system is the only thing I've ever seen, and clearly it's not that. Few would stay undecided for long, ie contemplate a Citroen system?Ā I would genuinely like to see.
Hereās a common system that is used in both road and race applications and doesnāt use a vacuum servo.
These will outbrake anything from a standard vehicle.
https://apracing.com/race-car/pedal-boxes -
2 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:
I didnāt say I wouldnāt use a vacuum servo,Ā but you asked what alternatives there are to theĀ vacuum system so I answered your question to help clear up the mystery š
I might use an alternative though.
Just because, but Iām undecided š¤·āāļøĀ
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22 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:
I will admit, I'm intrigued. How would we make-up force easily, or at all, without using vacuum? Where will this mysterious force be borne? We're looking forward to this... This will be good, damned good, tell more.
Well an electric brake pump could be an option...similar to systems used in the Softdash RRC and P38s etc. The custom car guys use them a lot especially in the States.
Google will help satisfy your intrigue.
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I donāt believe anyone would disagree that some form of pressure boost is required for a drum to disc conversion although not necessarily a vacuum based system.Ā In fact it was discussed in a previous but unrelated thread if I recall so thankfully we can leave our dunce hats in the cupboard for now š
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Thereās no holes and Iād rather not drill any if Iām honest.
Iām going to be lifting it in by hand so I think as long as I keep it nose up to stop the TC from sliding off the spline then itĀ should be okay. I had seen something in the past about using wire or zip ties but canāt find anything and Iām not 100% sure that was for a ZF anyway.
All going well the box will be in tomorrow if the kickdown cable gets here š¤
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2 hours ago, rusty_wingnut said:
Lurking with interest here, I've got a 2.5petrol and a 3.5V8 potentially lined up for my Series 1. Heart says V8, head says 2.5
Go with your heart š
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42 minutes ago, Snagger said:
The only issue that could crop up is bleeding the callipers, but as long as you have the bleed nipple uppermost, there shouldnāt be any problem. Ā Mechanically, the forces are the same on the discs, hubs, stub axles and swivels wherever the calliper is sited.
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Thatās what I was thinking. One bolt rotation might sort it out without causing any problems.
If I ever get mine Iāll do a sanity check.
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53 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
I'm happy enough, they supply an Allen key bung, which works after a fashion.
But the solution, for the stage bigj66 is at, is simply swap the swivel housings from side to side.
š
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24 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Simply: I don't feel qualified to try it. I'm a bit conservative with brakes.
Just because I can't see a problem, doesn't mean there isn't a problem.
Could be worth asking Zeus I suppose? Quite annoying that the filler is blocked.Ā
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9 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
If the bolt spacing is equal why canāt you rotate the bracketĀ upwards? Does it clash with something else?
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3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
If done horizontal, it shouldn't. Once fitted, there should be a small gap between flex plate and converter, assuming you have that, all good
Ok cheers. I donāt need to prime the TC with ATF before installing the box do I? Just fill it up once everything is bolted up?
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Whatās the best technique to ensure the torque converter doesnāt disengage from the pump splines during fitting to the engine?
At the moment the TC is bolted to the bellhousing by means of a transportĀ bracket but this will need to be removed prior to fitting.Ā
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1 minute ago, Anderzander said:
First recorded use inĀ English wasĀ 1611 apparently - the first use in print in its modern sense of āwheeled vehicle used for transporting heavy itemsā came in 1774.
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This forum is a mine of useful information š
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3 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:
That things a real bitza, Santana bulkhead, left-hooker wings, I could bore you. Thanks 66, an old pic... but there's no 'Truck' here, I'm a Brit and proud.
I was going to call it a bus....š
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22 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:
I've Heystee discs here, one of the early kits. Ex-Santana PS10/ Cadorola. These running with stock rims. I was lucky enough to find a set of proper deep steels. Not for me, Zues kits, require a set of w*nkers, or other rims with equal sink-estate cache. Circa 2005, it'd look like a 'Battle of Billing' casualty.
I have my self-respect. My advice, live with it forever looking shonky, or spend the extra and do it right.
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Nice truck š
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6 minutes ago, DaveSIIA said:
The rivets on a Series rim protrude on the inside face of the wheel well and may foul the caliper. Tubeless rims are generally welded,Ā givingĀ ~1/8" extra radial clearance.
ThatāsĀ the concern that I have with my rims.
2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?
in Series Forum
Posted
I feel your pain Brother š¤¦āāļø