Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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It’s all academic now as I realised after posting that question that I hadn’t allowed for the need to fit a spacer between the axle flange and the stub axle 🤦♂️
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1 hour ago, Simon_CSK said:
Glutton for punishment. 4 wives and Land Rovers!!
At least my new wife said I could have 10 cars. Collect no. 11 sometime this week.
Just to clarify....I’m not really on No4🤣🤣
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3 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:
My first wife couldn't stand thefact that I loved my Range Rovers, and my dog come to that, more than I loved her.
Loyalty lasts a lifetime.
My third couldn’t either, hopefully the fourth will be more understanding 😂
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On 5/9/2020 at 9:46 AM, missingsid said:
I think the main reason was to leave room for the Panhard rod?
As to the question re the use of Defender hubs and discs on the rear Series axle. Yes you can but you will need two items.
First the bolt on caliper brackets from an early Defender Salisbury axle part number FTC3306
Second the disc alignment with the caliper will need checking wich may require a spacer in the axle, mine was 4.5mm thick as I used RRC discs and calipers. Using all Defender parts should match up without?
Is there a particular stub axle that is used for the rear disc conversion?
The RRC stub axle spigot is wider than the Series axle tube recess so do you need to use a Series stub axle that the RRC hub will bolt on to?
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I was just curious as the one that I removed from mine to do the V8 conversion is duck egg (or bit of it are) so it makes sense.
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Just out of curiosity, was duck egg blue the standard factory colour for series engines?
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48 minutes ago, WesBrooks said:
Certainly a vast quantity of information there. Is that what is normally reffered to as the construction and use of motor vehicles (or something similar!) regulations?
I've dived into the latter occasionally when trying to understand obsurities in the IVA test regulations. If the current regulations percist, then I will be building to pass an IVA if intended for road use, but you're right I should have a passing knowledge of the regulations that is built on, and there maybe a few gems in there!
No Con & Use is subordinate legislation under the Road Traffic Act. The legislation I linked to earlier is more of a design requirement but there will be related guidance and best industry practice to support it. The directive will, for example, state a required safety factor for a component but not necessarily tell you how to achieve that. For that you need to go to the relevant standard that will give you things like calculations etc.
Designers and manufacturers need to demonstrate compliance with such legislation and standards in order to obtain type approval or CE certification.
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24 minutes ago, western said:
Big66 the link does not work.
Don’t forget the J for Joe😉😉
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Could be worth having a read of this:
http://www.legislation.gov.uk/eudr/2007/46/contents
It’s similar to the Machinery Directive but relates to motor vehicles and components. I haven’t read it all yet but I’m expecting it will state the required safety factors etc for automotive use or at least give a guide.
Then there will be an EN Standard somewhere that supports the legal requirements and will usually go into greater technical detail.
Apologies if it’s stating what you probably already know 😊
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I like the Billies too, had them in my Capri and they were great. I’d have no problem using them again if the dimensions work out ok.
Spax do a good range of adjustable dampers if you want to experiment with handling.
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Nice work 👍
Starting to come together now.
I’m wondering though if there is a right angle version of that plug out there somewhere?
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3 hours ago, Gazzar said:
I'm rethinking the trigger wheel on the flywheel idea.
I might be changing my mind.
What’s prompted that?
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Looking good👍
Can you slacken off the TPS screws to fit the cable plug and then nip them up afterwards?
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If you do end up having to split it then the torque converter really adds to the weight of the box but it’s not needed to do the trial fit. Given that you’re on the limits for the lifting gear it might just be quicker to whip out the bell housing bolts, remove the TC, handle them separately and then just bolt them together alongside the space frame again to do the trial lift.
Alternatively, if you want me to measure anything up on mine then just shout.
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44 minutes ago, WesBrooks said:
Cheers. That is what I assumed but thought it wise to check!
I've got a similar job to yourself to perform. Props are getting reversed to move the engine back around 10" before I can tack the engine mounts in position, and mark the transfer/gearbox mounts up. I guess the all up weight of the drained drive train to the in the order of 360-400kg, so that will prevent the longest reach of the 1 ton engine crane, perhaps limit to the shorter two if at all possible. There will be no bodywork that needs to be lifted over.
Still advise removing the transfer box? I'm not to sure how I would get the transfer box mount holes lined up well with the gearbox and without it being attached to the gearbox?
Ah ok, I thought you were just taking the box out. So engine and box together?
Lifting wise it’s awkward due to the offset CoG of the combination. The hook needs to be over the bell housing flange with the engine and a three leg sling arrangement used. You might struggle getting it over the chassis with the engine crane if it’s still on wheels due to the sling lengths and angles required and the limited head height of the crane even on full boom. I had an overhead chain hoist so a bit more head room.
One sling will go to the front nearside engine lift bracket, one to the rear offside engine bracket and the other around the transmission drum.
If the drum is off then you need a 4 leg sling arrangement.
The weight is in the offside due to the TB position so the sling to the drum needs to be adjustable so you can trim it properly. I used a decent ratchet strap to do this as that sling takes a lot of tension. Avoid using the cheap thin luggage straps and keep the sling clear of sharp edges. I found old seatbelts to be very good but proper slings are best. The engine lift bracket you have doesn’t really work well in this situation unless you’re lifting the engine separately. I tried it but couldn’t get the load to sit right.
It will take a bit of trial and error.
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4 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Fridge stuck a shock mount to the chassis where a cooler would have one, could do something similar?
To be honest it’s not worth going to that extent as I already have the clearance I need but reducing the diameter of the shock would give a bit more. More nice to have rather than need to have 👍
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3 minutes ago, WesBrooks said:
Hi All,
Should we have a forum (/is there on that I've missed!) specifically for generic tech questions like this and my previous one on the brakes? Seems it's not the point of the International forum, but it makes less sense sticking it in a model specific forum as unless we're talking about body panels much of the Defender/Range Rover/Discovery came from the same parts bin.
Continuing the strip down of the Range Rover Classic I'm now ready to remove the braking system from the body and then move onto removing the automatic gearbox selector. Does it make sense to leave it in a specific gear to make re-assembly easier? Currently I've left it in park with the bog-warner in neutral. Other extreme of travel would be '3'.
Thanks!
I don’t think it makes a difference Wes as you can set the selector position up later.
Id recommend splitting the BW off the main box though to make handling safer and easier.
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8 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
Not even close. Stock front shocks are only about 8” long.
Why do you want narrow shocks?
Just to help reduce the thickness of the required spacer on my axle.
Hopefully Bilstein also do a standard shock in that diameter. I think Spax may be a bit slimmer too...
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2 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
My Bilsteins are narrow-ish but did cost a twitch more than ProComps.
Nice! Are they standard series?
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Does anyone know of a brand of shocks that aren’t around 2” in diameter as my old Procomps were? I’m looking for a set of narrower diameter ones for the front of my Series 3. I think Billies may be a bit narrower but not sure by how much 🤔
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1 hour ago, 300tditaffy said:
I had a rotor arm go down to earth which caused the same problem you have, it was running fine and then it went with no warning
I’ve had this too. Rotor will look fine but it shorts out internally. Substitute with a known good one.
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If you have one it will be fixed to the side of the distributor.
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6 hours ago, BrynT said:
Thanks for that. Is there a way of testing the ignition amplifier?
There probably is and hopefully someone on here can explain what the procedure is as I seem to recall just swapping mine with a known good one to diagnose the fault.
It was many moons ago though but if it is the amplifier then consider changing it to an aftermarket one that’s more reliable and less prone to failure.
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Do you have an ignition amplifier fitted to the distributor? A failure of that will cause a loss of spark.
Half shaft modifications
in International Forum
Posted
Does anyone know of a company that will modify existing half shafts? By that I mean shorten them and reground the splines?
My local engineering company is swamped with back orders and have told me it will be at least 8 weeks before they could look at doing the work for me. I would like to get the chassis on wheels again as soon as I can so I can move it about to finish the rest of the work on it as lifting a ZF box onto the back of a V8 by hand isn’t good for my back 🚑