Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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I just fitted LED bulbs to my standard lamp units and changed the indicator and hazard relays for LED compatible versions.
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Paintman sell them. I fitted them to my S3 👍
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I’ve just fitted a 10 ohm resistor in line with the sender feed and it’s brought the needle down to mid point on the gauge from the red. I’ll keep an eye on it and see how it works at different temperatures.
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17 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
In that case it may just be running hotter than the Series gauge expects for "normal" - maybe try the "tropical climates" sender if there is one, I know some models they changed sender and/or gauge to move the "normal" point.
I’ve never even heard of those, will take a look 👍
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9 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
@Bigj66 The V8 sender has a different resistance to the Series sender so you'll always have that problem - a single resistor won't properly fix it as it might be (say) 50 Ohms out at 0 degrees C but 10,000 Ohms out at 100 Deg C, so you can't really "fix" it, at best you can make it sit at the right reading for one particular temperature but it'll be steadily more wrong the further away it goes from that temperature.
It's a fairly easy fix with electronics
but you need to know the curves of the two senders.
A modern V8 will run on an 88 or 92deg stat which is perfectly fine, running a cooler stat just makes everything less efficient it doesn't actually improve cooling.
Mine has the series sender fitted John.👍
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I’ve just ordered a selection of resistors to experiment with if you want to hold fire on forking out on a gauge just yet?
I can let you know if they make any difference or not. With mine, I’m still using the series gauge and sender but it now reads much higher than with the 2.25 which used to sit in the normal range.
With the V8 it sits just under the red line at normal temperature so I’d like to bring the needle down a bit but still allow it to rise if the engine gets hotter and the fan kicks in.
I’m not even sure if V8s run hotter internally than a standard engine??
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What about fitting a resistor in line with the feed to bring the needle down? I have the same issue with my V8 conversion.
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I’ve been thinking of fitting a roof tent to the Sankey when I do it up.
Like the idea of just hitching up and driving off for a weekend.
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I might have found a way to use the ones I have here. I’ll try them with the seat in place tomorrow and update my build thread but thanks 👍
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12 minutes ago, hurbie said:
same numbers according to the parts manual .
http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-parts-book/
Thanks but that’s the parts manual that I have. MTC1606/7 are the numbers.
When I search on that number nothing related to it comes up though 🤷♂️
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Does anyone know what the part number is for a Series 3 SWB truck cab inertia seatbelt?
MTC1606/7 is listed in the parts manual but seems to be for a Defender. Are they the same ones?
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I’d try to reinstate the exhaust and see how it is then
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7 minutes ago, Eightpot said:
I've been thinking about a good replacement 4x4 camper since my Range Rover ambulance eventually like most of them by now I guess succumbed to rust - big chunk of the chassis disolved where sand got trapped, sills, A pillars, windscreen frame, top rail, footwells, bulkhead, inner wings all rotted away, wiring loom was a mess etc etc
Been muddling along with 110 & oztent but much prefer the instant mobility of a camper and not having boxes of gear strewn about, and maybe I'm getting a bit old & grumpy for long road trips in a Defender (did loch ness to Birmingham in one hit last week, was grumpy after) Difficult to find such a good all-rounder though:
Rangie was great off road, the longer rear overhang being the only drawback over a Defender/Disco. More aerodynamic than a 110 so would cruise nicely at 70-75 on long journeys, and the big comfy seats with arm rests were great. Dimensions only slightly larger than a 110 with roofrack, so could still park it anywhere, drive tight tracks or hide away from prying eyes. Very spacious in the back - did think about trying to build a new one but the back body is surprisingly intricate with a very clever lightweight space frame arrangement clad with fibreglass skins.
Can't think of an alternative though and while literally waving an angle grinder over it to dismember and take to the scrapper, in a moment of madness the ambo got a reprieve and now I'm knee deep in another resto 🙄 🙂
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That’s definitely worth saving 👍
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How is the Sankey project coming along Stephen?
I’ve one here that’s parked up until I can get the V8 finished but after that it’s going to be a full strip and rebuild so I’m on the lookout for threads where people have done similar.
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10 minutes ago, simonb said:
MTC3180 lower, 330202 upper, 330203, vertical (long one) available various places if you Google them. Use sealant between them them door frame and the felt channels to prevent as much water as possible getting into the door top bottom frame..
Yours are good enough to reuse if you flatten out the pulled holes. Doesn't matter if you drill new holes through them - the window channel will hide that.
Cheers I’ve just found them using the part number. For £40 for a set though, I’ll stick with these I have here.👍
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Does anyone know if it possible to buy the aluminium window spacers without also having to buy the channels?
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Now I’m really worried about my V8 and auto in the series 🥵🥵
A winter car only methinks..😊
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23 hours ago, kevin50 said:
Thanks, Im useless when it comes to Electrics, so is one of these fitted With Distributor ? and where does it go ?
Pretty straight forward. The sensor just replaces the points and condenser. It should come with instructions for wiring etc but it’s not complicated.
It will just give more consistency and reliability to that part of the system as you no longer need to check points and regap them periodically.
This type of sensor fits into the original distributor and everything else such as dizzy cap and rotor remain standard.
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1 hour ago, kevin50 said:
Where can I get an Electronic Unit ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151154977555
Something like this.
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As above, replace the points with an electronic pick up unit. Easy to fit and much more reliable.
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One other query, can I fit anti burst locks in place of the standard ones on a series 3 door?
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I’ve ordered the channel from the S3 club so now I need to get the rear window seals etc for the truck cab and both doors.
Would Woolies be the recommendation for those and again glue in or re-rivet?
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14 hours ago, Anderzander said:
Minefield warning ⛔️ 💣
There are definitely bulbs that fit - folk will say they aren’t type approved for those lenses, and thus not legal.So, there is a personal judgement here on the risks associated with that - and that will be informed by how comfortable you are modifying your vehicle away from standard.
I thought that was just for headlights? Does it apply to the other lights too? I can’t see much difference between the lens of the LED and standard Wipac units if I’m honest.
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On 7/4/2021 at 8:43 AM, Anderzander said:
Are there any that look like standard ? Or is fitting bulbs the only option for that ?
I was wondering if you can just replace the bulbs with LED versions and keep the original lamp units? My lights are fairly new so I don’t want to buy new ones if I can avoid it. Or are the LED lens different?
I’d need a LED flasher relay for the indicators too but that too should be a straightforward swap.
but you need to know the curves of the two senders.
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LED indicators etc
in Series Forum
Posted
I know a thing or two about road traffic legislation, I’ll take my chances 😉