Bigj66
-
Posts
3,373 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
26
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Bigj66
-
-
On 1/6/2021 at 3:35 PM, PaulMc said:
I've just checked the wiring diagrams -
Discovery-2 TD5 and V8 use 3.0mm2
1999MY Defender TD5 uses 3.0mm2
2002MY Defender TD5 uses 4.0mm2
I ended up buying the 4mm pins with the plug but hopefully they will still work with the 3mm wire.
I wanted to match the factory colours if possible when I join a wire I.e. WP 3.0 for the fuel pump. Where do folk shop for Landrover colour coded wiring?
-
20 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:
They'll almost certainly just be knobs that slide onto potentiometers mounted directly on the PCB. It looks like there are a couple of screws in holding the PCB to the front panel - can you remove those and get a picture of the front of it? I'm guessing once you've removed the screws the knobs will just slide out.
Will do at some point. I can manage for now though and I’m on DIY duties today so Landrover play is suspended 🤦♂️
-
Also interested to see how the engine and gearbox sits in the chassis if you’ve got any photos.
Maybe start a build thread in the member’s vehicles section as it sounds like an interesting vehicle.👍
-
The control knobs seem to be attached directly to the PCB but I can check again.
Glad I gave it the once over inside before I used it as the main power supply earth had become detached. Remade the connection before buttoning it all back up.
-
I might take a look at the spot time wiring and bypass it so I can control things a bit more.
-
What’s causing these small indentations to form at the end of the bead?
I’ve tried adjusting speed and current but it doesn’t seem to make a difference. I can’t seem to switch off the timer either so it’s stopping itself and these are the longest runs I can do.
Best crackle sound I achieved gave this. Look ok for penetration?
-
Do you have a power steering box in amongst the parts that came with the vehicle? It would be interesting to see it.
It doesn’t look like a P38 setup so maybe the PO intended to use a box from a different model that mounts on the inside of the chassis rails.
That front crossmember modification doesn’t inspire confidence if I’m being honest.
-
2 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
@Bigj66 - sorry a bit too late but SGS have distributors in Colwyn Bay, Ruthin and Flint. I've switched from Hobbyweld to them because not only were they better value for money but also a damn sight closer now I've moved back to Wales.
Not to worry Ed, I’m sorted now and I expect it will be some time before I need a refill...
-
Couldn’t find any local gas suppliers other than BOC so I opted for my nearest Hobbyweld dealer in Wrexham.
£70 deposit, £35 for the gas and £35 for delivery which although high, will just be a one off due to travel restrictions.
Ive gone for the Hobbyweld 5 which is good up to 7mm steel.
It will be here tomorrow.
-
1
-
-
Just need some gas and then I can try it out properly.
-
2
-
-
Parts arrived.
Is this the correct height of the nozzle relative to the tip?
Earth lead is a little large. Will just drill a smaller hole to match the cable.
-
I can turn those spot and rest time switches off can’t I unless I’m spot welding?
-
18 minutes ago, Dr Strangeglove said:
You may have a "spot" or "stitch" timer. It is what you would use on thinner gauge steels so that you weld, cool, weld, cool, etc
It may be worth trying to download a manual for it, or put a clear photo of the switches on this thread. Hopefully someone can let you know what each one does
I’ve done just that 👍
-
52 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
The top two knobs control the spot timer, they are both turned up a bit, so guess this is the issue
🤷♂️
Yeah you’re right.👍
-
It works! I have a spark so that’s an improvement. When I depress the trigger the feed stops after about 4-5 seconds. Same period every time. Is that normal?
Contacts were a bit grubby so some electrical contact cleaner on those.
-
Took out the rusty wire.
I’ll try it again and see if anything’s improved.
-
2
-
-
4 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Think you might need the pink wire....
It’s disconnected/broken at both ends. I can’t see where it would attach either. I have continuity between the two switch wires when it’s pushed.
An earth perhaps?
-
A bit grubby but the torch switch works.
-
What do you reckon 🤨
And the connector end. Not sure of the purpose of this pink wire....
-
15 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Can you hear it trying to drive the wire? could be that it's not feeding if the wire isn't clamped.
No it wasn’t trying to feed even when I pulled the trigger 🙂
I’ll be outside again this evening so will do some more checks. It’s been sat for years so this isn’t entirely unexpected.
I’ve ordered the new parts anyway on the basis that I’ll get it working eventually 🤞
-
10 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:
Well it fired up and the fan was running albeit a tad noisy. If I pull the trigger the wire doesn’t feed out but that wire is completely shot and there’s not much left of it so it’s going to be renewed anyway.
And if I touch the wire to the earth there’s no spark
Could that be a problem with the torch itself or something more sinister?
-
Well it fired up and the fan was running albeit a tad noisy. If I pull the trigger the wire doesn’t feed out but that wire is completely shot and there’s not much left of it so it’s going to be renewed anyway.
And if I touch the wire to the earth there’s no spark
-
So these twin gauge ones do the same thing?
-
And is this what you mean when you say a regulator with flow meter?
New Member Introduction
in Series Forum
Posted
I’m doing a P38 conversion on mine at the moment so it might help give you some ideas for yours.
I’m just working on the steering column mods at the moment. For the rods I went to Gwyn Lewis.