Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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With respect to security there’s a number of things you can do to make life difficult for someone who’s intent on stealing the vehicle. The more the merrier however, I wouldn’t discuss what measures you take on an Internet forum.
Have a read through various threads, choose your preferences and then put them in place would be my advice.
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On 3/23/2021 at 6:23 PM, pat_pending said:
The results of any MOT logged into the system stay there.
If your MOT exempt vehicle fails a voluntarily submitted test and you chose not to have it retested your defence to the charge of not having a valid test certificate would be...The vehicle is test exempt. Although I doubt it would ever get to court.
Irrelevant as the LED/HID "Light source and lamp not compatible" fail doesn't apply to MOT exempt vehicles anyway.
So an MOT exempt vehicle couldn’t technically fail a test if it had LED lamps fitted because that particular section of the Tester’s manual doesn’t apply to it by virtue of its age?
If I understood what you wrote correctly.
Whether or not you want to fit them is another discussion.
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So is this saying that you can’t fail an MOT if your vehicle is exempt due to the 40 year rule or, if you voluntarily submit your vehicle for MOT even if it’s exempt, then you could fail on this point?
What’s to stop someone taking their vehicle for MOT, failing and then just tearing up the certificate and sticking it in the bin due to the fact that they don’t need it anyway? Is the vehicle recorded as a ‘fail’ on the MOT database if it was exempt in the first instance?
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Some interesting information on various master cylinder applications here.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2013/10/15/tech-brake-master-cylinder-faqs/
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So to fit that kit is it remove the drum backplate, fit the calliper bracket, fit the disc with extended studs and then fit the calliper?
Have you had to remake the rigid pipe from the T piece on the rear axle for both callipers?
Everything else standard Series?
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It’s not a P38 Thor as the round plug has 27 terminals. The D2 Thor loom I had didn’t have a round plug. Maybe GEMS? Those wire colours look like aftermarket. Did the donor vehicle run LPG? What’s on the other end of them?
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Can anyone identify this red/yellow wire on the series petrol loom where it enters the engine bay?
I can’t find it on the wiring diagram I have and it has a single bullet connector on the end.
The only other similar coloured wire I can see is this unused one on the loom that runs across the dash to the wiper motor.
It’s an auto sparks replacement loom so maybe something for optional equipment?
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On 3/3/2021 at 4:24 PM, carl lewis said:
thanks bowie69 im lifting the body so that i can swap the engine as the current one is knocking its txxx off.
Is that for real? Landrover have designed a vehicle that needs the whole body to be lifted off to change the engine? No wonder they’re fooked 🙄
I’ll stick with my Series from a time when things were much simpler.
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2 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:
Filip
Was working on it today there is 12v at 2 pins and when I bridged the relay between pins 85 and 86 which are the feed to the starter I got nothing. I got my son to operate the key and the relay is certainly getting a signal from the BeCM as it is clicking. Wired the output of the relay direct to live and again no change. If I get time tomorrow I will jack the car up and put a feed directly to the starter motor and see if it will crank.
The brown and red feed to the starter solenoid leaves the fuse box via the pink plug. Could be worth checking the connection is good at the fuse box end and that the spade connector at the solenoid is also still attached.
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12 hours ago, Badger110 said:
If I could afford one I'd be right there with you
I’m still a miserable, cantankerous old bugger though, I’ve earned the right to be and I’m proud of it 🤣
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On 2/23/2021 at 6:11 PM, Badger110 said:
This.
It's an age thing, we're all getting to be miserable, cantankerous buggers who like some comfort in their lives
Speak for yourself, it’s a V8 series all the way for me, leafs an’ all 💪😉
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Anyone have one of these in their Defender and can measure the distance of the tray front to rear as shown by the yellow line please? Inner depth of that section would be helpful too 👍 Cheers.
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1 hour ago, monkie said:
This is the same as I’m buying 👍
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9 minutes ago, monkie said:
I got my wires from Autosparks. The "normal" wires are 1mm2, the thicker ones for the headlights for example or 2mm2 and the beefy 60amp stuff is 8.50mm2.
There does seem to be about 3 different sizes in use from what I can see on the looms.
The blue/red, blue/purple ones in my photo would be the 1.0mm?
The brown/pink, brown/orange 2.0mm?
And the brown with the red dash 3.0mm?
I’m also looking on the Autosparks site as I’m hoping to try and match the colours I have on the loom.
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Is there a simple way to know what gauge a wire is? I need to try and match a variety of sizes.
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For connections to relays etc are you guys just using standard blue/red crimped insulated spade connectors or something else?
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1 hour ago, monkie said:
I think when you get that point, it is when you are likely to make silly/costly mistakes. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be reinvigorated to push on
This is right. Project fatigue is real and if you don’t walk away for a while you’ll end up making daft mistakes.
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11 minutes ago, monkie said:
I've just hit that point in a big land rover project when you start to slow down, wonder if you have bitten off more than you can chew and start to think that your land rover will never be on the road again. I'm seeing that as a signal to stop working on it today and come back to it when I'm feeling fresh and motivated to carry on.
I share your pain brother 😞💪
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47 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Think it may illuminate the over temp warning light on an RRC, essentially as a test to make sure the bulb is working.
What would be the relationship between that and the inhibit switch though?
There’s already a gearbox oil temperature sender fitted and that has its own pair of wires.
This spare lead has a 3 pin econoseal plug.
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Classic owners, when the vehicle is in park is a warning lamp of any description illuminated?
I have AMR 5141 gearbox harness and the inhibitor switch seems to be linked to another 2 wire (green/yellow and red/black) plug on the loom that I have yet to identify but it shares a common wire (green/yellow) with this spare plug.
From the position and length of wire on this spare plug it looks like it would connect to something at the rear of the gearbox area or maybe into another loom.
I initially thought it could be for a speed transducer but why would it be linked to the inhibit switch?
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14 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:
I wonder of you can buy fuel line to use with banjos like the braided brake and clutch lines.
I know you can get leak off sets like that.
Sho gotta purdy fuel line boy 😄
Mo
Yes you can. Braided nitrile hose is available that works with AN fittings and banjos.
I’m using it on my project for the power steering and gearbox oil cooler.
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I’m using braided PTFE with AN fittings.
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Cheers, so is it 13 or 14 that controls the amount of heat through the vents?
I only have two cables on the series control levers one for the screen/footwell and the other for temperature.
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Quick question.
Is the temperature control cable JFF500010 the cable that runs from the dash to the top of the heater?
Item 13
My series cable is too short to reach the Defender heater so I’m hoping the defender one is the correct length.
Anyone used these guys?
in International Forum
Posted
They manufacture replacement parts for the rear tub on Series vehicles so just wondered if anyone has had any dealings with them?
http://www.outback-motorcycles.co.uk/home