[Making my own main loom/harness]

26 minutes ago, western said:

PaulMc will probably know & most likely be able to supply or give you a suppliers name

Cheers 👍

@PaulMc can you assist please?

[Making my own main loom/harness]

I need to make up a loom for my fuel pump. Does anyone know the name of the plug that fits into the pump or a supplier?

[Wright Off Road Matting]

4 hours ago, reb78 said:

 

http://www.wrightoffroad.com/r380_mat.htm
 

Is the cut out for the hand brake and gear levers already removed or is it blank?

[Wright Off Road Matting]

3 hours ago, reb78 said:

Three items - one complete across the footwells and gearbox tunnel, one that wraps around the bulkhead behind the fusebox and one for the seatbox. 
 

Mine is for an lt77 tunnel but I put some pics up in a recent thread. I am pretty sure the r380 version is the same, but slightly different shape for the tunnel. 

Cheers. I have a set for my Series 3 but I’ve now changed the seatbox and tunnel so it won’t fit any longer. I’ll get a defender set 👍

[Wright Off Road Matting]

Does anyone have the WOR kit in the front of their R380 Defender?

If so how are the various covers divided up between the seatbox, tunnel and bulkhead?

Are they 3 separate items or are some of them integrated?

[Heat Shield Material]

3 hours ago, Badger110 said:

I've removed mine and the heatshield is surplus at the moment, would it suit your needs?

I took some pictures

 

 

 

Cheers, where does it fit to?

[Heat Shield Material]

1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

What are you trying to protect? It will affect the choice of material, etc.

Often, a simple piece of thin plate attached just proud of the surface you wish to protect is enough to stop things baking. But without knowing specifics, it is hard to suggest anything as best solution.

 

 

 

I was looking at the hose runs for the gearbox cooler and as they aren’t a million miles away from the catalytic converter I thought about putting something in between the two for times when the car is sat in traffic and the heat isn’t naturally dispersed by airflow.

I’m also looking at a position for the expansion tank and fixed to the wing above the manifold would be ideal so something to shield that upward heat would be good.

[Heat Shield Material]

Well if I was building myself a space shuttle instead of a V8 Landrover then I might consider that Zircoflex but Merlin also do another version which is much more palatable on the wallet. 
 

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/nimbus-gii-2-layer-heat-shield-material-aero-nim-s

I’ll look around at dimpled ali sheeting to compare.

Cheers.

[Heat Shield Material]

7 minutes ago, smallfry said:

How big does the shield need to be, and how big is the gap ?

I’m looking at various sizes to protect the area around the cats and in the engine bay underneath things like the expansion tank so no specific size but sheets of say 300 x 300 would work.

[Heat Shield Material]

2 minutes ago, monkie said:

There are some ideas on this thread 

It’s just linking back to this thread...🤷‍♂️

[Heat Shield Material]

Can anyone recommend a self supporting heat shield material that can be formed to shape and will protect against exhaust heat?

[What do you do when struggling with enthusiasm?]

I set myself a target of one year to complete my V8 auto conversion which takes me until around the end of March this year.

I also had a 110 and a Cosworth Capri sat here but apart from the odd trip neither saw much use each year and if I did need to travel locally then weather permitting, I’d always choose the Series.

So the 110 and Capri were sold to make room for the V8 project to start and to be honest, without having it to go to each day during the various lockdowns last year when I was between jobs, I’m not sure how I’d have coped. Selling the other vehicles gave me the mental and physical space to focus on the Series.

Relying on others for things like proper welding and fabrication is frustrating as it stalls progress due to my lack of skill and adds to the cost but it’s just one of those things you have to do if you want the job doing right.

Maintaining a build thread can also be very time consuming but it’s a good way of keeping a record of what you’ve done as my memory is pretty poor. It’s also a way to learn from the more experienced folk on here who have provided me with advice and support which is very much appreciated. Hopefully it will also help others avoid making mistakes by learning from mine.

I still don’t know if it’s going to work though, time will tell 🤷‍♂️

[Early Defender Brake Layout]

Is the rear port on NRC8690 early Defender master cylinder as fitted to the type 50 servo, the rear drum brake circuit?

Its the smaller of the two.

[Steering column disassembly]

I’m presuming the steering lock needs to be removed to withdraw the inner column but after that what’s the best way to strip it down? 
 

The pinch bolt is off the lower end so does that piece tap off the tube? Does the column pull out from the bottom leaving the top bearing in place?

 

[Rear brake cylinder fittings]

Well it’s all sorted now. I’ve no idea what was delivered to me the first time but they weren’t a 3/8 UNF. The second lot that I ordered from Bearmach are the correct ones.

£6.25 for delivery for four small fittings is just ridiculous though. They were also delivered in an A4 sized Jiffy bag which was just wasteful and no doubt intended to justify the extortionate postage costs. The four fittings I bought only cost £2.96!

It’s one of the downsides of ordering from Bearmach.

[Gear box tunnel hole filling - Waterlooville area]

4 minutes ago, Litch said:

It's the one supplied by Ashcroft, just the same as the normal one but without the moulding for the main gearstick. 

 

Great and is that hole aligned with the ‘neutral’ position for the TL and would you mind measuring the distance from the centre of the hole to the closest edge at the rear if you get a chance please?

[Gear box tunnel hole filling - Waterlooville area]

21 hours ago, Litch said:

Why is the lever so far back, is it because it is straight from a Disco? Would fitting FRC8558 help?

When I did mine it fitted the R380 tunnel perfectly and the correct rubber boot seals the hole (with the foam / rubber insert underneath), all supplied by Ashcroft.

 

 

What is that gaiter off in the bottom photo?

[Gear box tunnel hole filling - Waterlooville area]

I already have FRC8558 plus an extension to bring the transfer lever as far forward as I can within the constraints of the linkage.

 I only need about another 10-15mm of rearward travel so I’ll just reposition that lip to suit.

[Series 2a 109 V8 conversion.]

As above and...you might also be better off looking at a 3.9 serpentine engine rather than an older 3.5 flapper or, if you’re really feeling adventurous then a 4.0 or 4.6 Gems but that’s a lot more torque to be putting through a standard drive train. 
 

It can be done but needs doing properly to get the results you’re looking for.

[Gear box tunnel hole filling - Waterlooville area]

Mine’s in a Series 3 chaps so way out of normal position hence the need to modify the tunnel. Everything is shoved further back than normal on a Defender.

[Driver door won’t shut]

I used the X Eng latches on mine after ripping an expensive pair of jeans on the originals so would recommend them.

On the subject of door seals, I need to find a replacement set for my Series 3 but as with the Defender ones, I’m looking for recommendations on a decent quality supplier. 

I can’t find a definitive answer in the various posts on the topic to the Britpart ones that are being advertised.

Other than BP who else would be worth looking at? Can early Defender one piece seals be fitted to a Series door frame without modification?

[Gear box tunnel hole filling - Waterlooville area]

I need to modify my R380 tunnel to open it up slightly at the rear to allow the transfer lever full range of movement.

The front will be filled in and I was planning on using fibreglass to to it with some metal bracing where required.

[Rear brake cylinder fittings]

52 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Brake fittings are pretty much standard across makes, even more so once M10 came in, I don't know what you have there, but if it is an imperial fitting, it should fit.....

 

The cylinders are rear axle 88” up to suffix E and came from Bearmach. If these new fittings don’t screw in either then I’ll need to look closer at them.

[Rear brake cylinder fittings]

4 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

That's for 3/16 pipe, not the thread size

 

Yes and I’m assuming they are 3/8 thread but why the 3/8 I have here won’t fit is strange so I’m guessing it could be the tpi as they were not Landrover specific as these ones from Bearmach are.🤞

[Rear brake cylinder fittings]

15 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

3/16 what? 

That's the normal pipe size, of course... But not likely to be the thread size, at about 5mm.

Brake fittings were standardised to M10 in the early 80s/late 70s, otherwise they are 3/8 UNF.

These. I have M10 & 3/8 here and neither will screw into the cylinder. The 3/8 ones I have here may have the wrong tpi though.