Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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Just to check I’m looking at the correct items.
Gauge
https://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/argon-regulator/
Torch if I need one
https://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/rtech-mb25ak-4m-mig-torch/
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This ok?
https://www.boconline.co.uk/shop/en/uk/gas/welding-gas/argoshield-light-cylinder
If I’ve read it correctly then I’d need to add monthly rental of a cylinder to this price?
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Ok cheers gents, I’ll have a look online and see if I can find a parts supplier.
What type of gas is it?
Sorry, Argoshield Heavy? Is that a make or type?
Scrap that, found it 👍
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I have this Cebora Stag 186 Mig welder of unknown vintage. It came to me free but needs some parts replacing.
From what I can see it needs a new gun or at least the end bits where the wire comes out, a new gauge and regulator, a reel of wire and a bottle of gas.
Are these items all generic or specific to the model of welder?
Can I test the welder to check it’s working without having these items attached? I don’t want to buy new parts only to find out something is wrong with the gubbins.
What size bottle do I need and what gas?
What size wire for my bespoke fabrication 🙈 and up to 5mm steel?
Anything I’ve overlooked?
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11 minutes ago, Turnips said:
@Bigj66 Are these the measurements you need? If they're not just let me know, the column and box are off the vehicle so easy to get to at the minute. Not sure if you meant the clamp right at the base or the one partway where it fastens to the bulkhead
Absolutely bob on Sir, thank you very much 👍
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Does anyone have a Series 3 in bits with the steering column exposed and can take some measurements for me?
I need to find out the distance from the centre of the outer column clamp on the engine side of the bulkhead to the top of the outer column where the bearing sits.
Then I need the distance the inner column sticks out of the outer column at the steering wheel end.
Cheers.
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17 minutes ago, Defender said:
I wasn't too sure which section to post this in so I hope this is ok.
Now my Land rover stable is a little larger I need to replace my ageing wooden garage with steel building.
The openings are going to be 2.5m wide by 2.7m high and i'm looking for some cheap and secure ideas for the doors? I don't want roller doors because of how much they reduce the head height, I'd like to be able to back a vehicle on a trailer in the garage hence the 2.7m height.
So has anyone built their own? Do you have some pictures of the construction you wouldn't mind sharing?
I really like the idea of using the polycarb panels to add light something like the pic below maybe (Just an idea at the minute so i'm open to all ideas please):
frosted galss doorI have roller doors and the roll sits above the lintel so no loss of headroom. You’d probably need about 400-500mm additional height above the lintel to fit them.
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1 hour ago, Mo Murphy said:
It's all soooooo clean 👍
Mo
I’m not happy about the surface rust on those threads so they’ll need to be dealt with 😉
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30 minutes ago, ballcock said:
These from screwfix would do. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-carbon-steel-threaded-rod-connecting-nuts-m8-10-pack/373gx
Couldn’t find hex ones long enough so I’ve gone for a round one which will work just as well.
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49 minutes ago, DaveSIIA said:
The thread on that looks a bit short to work with the high-low link. Work out how much extension you need and make a complete linkage out of M8 threaded rod or run some threads on 8mm bar. Keep the solution simple.
I’m sorted now. I need 40mm so I’ve ordered some internal M8 threaded tube that I can extend the linkage with. Then I can make a slightly longer base plate to match.
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Something like this
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1 hour ago, DaveSIIA said:
I would second this approach and as far as possible stick with off the shelf trim parts. How much further forward will the high-low / diff lock selector need to be to put it in a "standard position"?
If there isn't enough length in the rod for the high-low selector, a suitable one could be made from threaded rod. The bottom end of the diff lock actuator possibly could be extended with a welded on tab.
This is the bit I’m focusing on but I need to take it apart to see what options are open to me.
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I’m taking another look at the linkage to see if I can do more with it.
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1 minute ago, Bowie69 said:
I think that joint is just bonded in rubber, as a NVH mitigator, if you remove the lever, some heat and a hammer will get it out.
Then you could weld on a stick whatever shape you wanted.
That’s what I needed to clarify cheers. I think I only need about 10mm to get it to work as is without modifying the tunnel.
If that won’t work then the tunnel aperture will need to move rearward.
I’m not overly concerned about the finish as the tunnel will either be covered or in any case, painted marine blue.
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54 minutes ago, Snagger said:
It’s not the ideal solution, especially with expensive cosmetic parts, but you could move that lip aft a little and cut the matting aperture a bit bigger. If you’re planning to use a rubber top cover over the aperture, genuine or the single lever aftermarket special, then you’d have to move the whole aperture, which could be done by adding the material removed from the back edge to the front of the aperture. It’d need careful cutting with a sharp blade, but bonding back in with grey or black Tiger Seal would give a strong bond and would be close to the right colour, and Drew was very practical in choosing standard colours for the polyurethane, the dark grey being RAL02 for a paint match. He reckons that plain acrylic aerosol will stick, but if in doubt, some PIO from Buzzweld in that colour would, work.
If that join is not neat enough for you to leave after the above, then you could cover it with some kind of storage tray.
Like I said, not ideal, but I think you’d get good results with a little of the patience you’ve shown so far.
That’s been my plan A but I was also looking at modifying the lever if possible to avoid that but with that joint there it’s difficult.
My plan is to use the Ashcroft single hole cover but I’m also thinking of using that available space where the gear lever used to be for cup holders and storage so I may end up with a different matting solution.
I’ll carry on pondering 🤔
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This is the problem I need to sort out. The whole lever has already been moved forward of its original position as far as the operating levers will allow.
The joint in the lever stem where it’s marked in yellow hits the rear of the tunnel aperture before high range is fully engaged.
If I could remove that joint and replace it with a cranked straight rod to bring it forward then I could probably leave the tunnel standard and use the defender R380 matting kit.
Does anyone know a way to split that joint in the lever?
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1 minute ago, Mo Murphy said:
The TD5 one can be reset by pressing the button on top but it cannot be activated manually by pulling out a plastic button.
The only way to activate it is to shock it by shaking or impact.
Mo
Ah, right cheers Mo👍
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15 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:
Alas you can't do that on the TD5 type.
Mo
Just to clarify, once the TD5 switch is triggered, it can’t be reset?
But the RRC one can?
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3 minutes ago, RedLineMike said:
on my td5 i replaced the inertia switch with an emergency stop button mounted on the dash
I’m hoping to use the switch to shut off both the fuel and battery supplies via relays if possible 👍
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11 minutes ago, RedLineMike said:
from your discription id suggest a td5 one, its 2 wires with a push to reset
Great, thanks 👍
I wasn’t sure if the TD5 one was linked to other systems but it sounds ideal
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Can anyone recommend a generic inertia switch that I can retrofit to my V8 conversion to shut down the fuel pump in the event of a shunt? One that can be manually reset rather than linked to other vehicle systems.
Are they normally mounted on the bulkhead?
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
4mm2 for a fuel pump? That's 30-40A rating
...then I checked the RAVE manual for the Disco 2 and it does indeed have a 30A fuse on the fuel pump
so lord knows what's going on there, both my EFI pumps run from 10A fuses.
The Thor runs higher fuel pressures.
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I can use the seatbox one but not the tunnel unless I can find a way to modify the transfer lever to remove that big lump in the middle. Some sort of joint I think but I can’t see how it comes apart.
If not then I’ll need to modify that aperture where the transfer lever pokes out which will mean I can’t use the tunnel matting.
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10 minutes ago, PaulMc said:
It's a BMW connector, I recently posted details, here -
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108548-td5-fuel-pump-connector/
Brilliant thanks, now I need to find a BMW dealer who will sell online...🤔
Would the 1.0 - 2.5mm size pins and seals be correct for a fuel pump? I’m to sure what current the pump will draw. It’s the high pressure one off a Thor V8.
Mig Welder Spares
in Tools and Fabrication
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The torch itself looks ok but I think the tip and the shroud over it have seen better days. Is the tip hole supposed to be the same size as the wire that’s on the reel or is it one size fits all?
The earth clamp is also a bit battered but it bolts to the cable so hopefully I can just buy a replacement.