Gremlin

With my little knowledge it seems c303 4x4's were 5.9 and c304/6 6x6's were 7.x?, too low for what i want and it seems 5.9's are in short supply! Grem

Thanks, anybody else? Patrick

Hello everybody, i am on the hunt for a set of volvo c303 portals in the 5.9 ratio flavour obo. of a friend. Now what i need is from whom can i purchase a set?? in the uk or out of the uk does not matter as i live in the Mediterrianian anyway, so i will need these to be shipped. I can arrange for shipping from my end, no problem. So does any body have a list of people, suppliers or scrappies i might start harrasing.............. Thanks for looking Patrick

Thanks to everybody, that has made the job sound much simpler then i thought. Thanks again Grem

Hi All Can somebody please tell me the colour codes and what they point to on the zf auto? Its a 4 wire thingy at the side of the box. Trying to mate a zf and v8 into a diesel wired landy so i need to see what goes where, and to what........... Oh and does anybody know how the wiring of the inhibit circuit should be? maybe a simple diagram?? As i have the rangie electrical manual but i just cannot make heads or tails of the stupid diagram! Cheers Grem

You will need to download a pdf printer driver and then print as a file using the pdf printer. I managed to split all models and all sections that way. The only snag is that you loose all the bookmarks so looking up is a pain with a 400 page manual! While on this subject, has anybody tried splitting the epc or microcat in this way?? i have been trying but have not manged yet! only single pages and only the one you can view, plus no description or part numbers! Grem

No worky Grem

Some old fiat engines also rotated anticlockwise. Grem

Thanks Grem

I made my own with bits and bobs i had in my junk box. Not as refined as the revolvers but they seem to work with very long shocks. I now removed them as i need a decent set of long shocks, plus the rear was feeling a bit wobbly and i am currently not offroading the landy. Some pics components Mock up Tacked Twisted Paint and testing I put a poly bush in the center of mine and when i tighten it up it locks up, so for them to work correctly i had to keep the bolts loose, not very nice on the road. No rattles or anything else. My concern is that at full compression the spring tend to stess itself out and nearly going into a reverse arch. Bigger bumpstops could stop this. Grem

Thanks for all the replies, so grinding the welds in going to be a bitch! centering is no problem as i had thought of using the a hub to check run out. Now valve placement, any detailed pics or measurement of where i should drill the new hole?? Thanks Grem

I have been trawling the forums and the net for a write up regarding reversing rim centers on steel disco rims but i cannot find it again! Any ideas where i might look?? I know that its a just grind, flip and reweld job, but i wish to know what i might need to look out for, especially with the valve hole. Thanks Grem

Time to ressurect this........ Any progress?? Grem

Ok i tried all of the above and i still keep getting the same error!! Damn XP!!! The microcat i have is till AUG 2004! i tried the date trick and it still gave me the error!! I also have the mg16.dll file in the right places, what else could be wrong? Grem

Yep Microcat! Grem

Hi all, I have a bit of a query. I just installed a certain parts software on an XP based machine, it runs for 4-5 mins then pops a window up saying error 113 and to contact helpdesk! I click ok and the program shuts down. I was running it on a 2000pro machine and it worked fine! Any clue, ideas or workaround this! Thanks Grem

Maltese here........... Grem

I did that mod on my swivel pins, works a treat, just a couple of pumps of grease on every service and my minds at rest. Easy to do as the pins are pretty soft to drill trough. Grem

Tricky for you............... Imagine me in the middle of the Med trying to source all the bits from there! I think i still have some contacts of people who wanted to sell a couple of axles in the UK. Try putting a wanted advert on most of the LR related forums and you will see that a couple will pop up, thats what i did. It was thanks to somebody in the UK that i managed to put mine together, by getting only the bits i needed to convert to a cv setup, as shipping for a complete axle would have killed the whole idea. I am sure you would also be able to find a complete rusty stage one vehicle for a very good (bargain) price in the Uk and pinch all the bits you need. Grem

24 spline outers and 6 bolt flanges, should fit you setup if series 3 outers. I have also read that the stage 1 cv is stronger then the 110 cv, but the price also refelects this, stage 1 cvs are hellishly expensive bought new! If i ever do break one, which i doubt, as they work at a lower angle at full lock, then its back to the drawing board unless i fit 110 ones I guess best bet would be to try and fit CTM's, but i doubt they make them in such a small size as series U joints are. Going this route might also bring out a new weak point, the shaft yokes. Grem

anyone got any i can look at? i need to know my brakes will mate upto it all They should as externally they are like series axles exactly. The only difference is the stub axle which runs late bearings like the coilers (i had an early series 3 axle). My front axle was built up from bits and pieces off a stage one axle. To convert your current axle you need the swivels, shafts, outer swivel housing and stub axles, the rest is all interchangeable. I then had to get late series hubs to make it all work as mine were early ones. Sorry no pics of the bits, all i have is a pic of the upgrade to 1 ton brakes, but if you need any more info let me know. Grem

Stage 1 v8 axle bits and you're done. Grem

The less lock you have the kinder you are to your CV's, so i would advise open them up before the tire rubs. Grem

Early ti console, grey in colour, it seems this was common on early sets!!! Not fun driving on the bumpstop!!! I have also seen green ones broken (british springs i belive). I went back to standard springs with less leafs, easier to tune, spares are cheap and plentyful and at least there are another 6 leaves (in my setup, 10 if with 11 leafs) to break before ending on the bumpstops. Grem

While on the spring subject, here is mine up the ramp. I run standard fronts, re arched, with 7 leafs and 4 leaf paras at the rear, i will be going to 3 leaf rears as it is too stiff at the moment. Future improvements are longer shocks (running 90 rears now) and a set of home made revolvers. The front works very well, using all the travel available. Testing the revolver out, works well but i need looooong shocks for them to be effective. I will never run front paras again as i broke one set with only road use and the ride hieght was awful, i barely had 1.5" betwen the bumstop and axle while the rears where too high, making the landy look as if it was going to the drag strip. Grem