Gremlin

Mine went in a similar fashion but with a cleaner break, plus i twisted another after an incident with a roundabout........................ Grem

Hmmmm............... tempting..............................

Yes the factory in iran, i am from Malta so not being on mainland europe made me stop that venture. As Bill rightly pointed out, no one will spend such an outlay for a kit, especially over here so my option was of selling abroad off the net. Once again economics dictate it was not viable, so i went the diy route especially when a pair of free calipers came my way. Grem

As per my tread start.......... Thanks anyway......... Grem

That ruins the challange of doing it yourself for a quarter of the price, if not less. Thanks for the link but one of my criteria is to use rover parts for the sake of availability. Plus if my version will work, there will be many other series owner who might benefit from what i am doing To be honest i had made contact with the original manufacturer of the so called kits and the costs are highly inflated when they get to europe. The factory was going to tie me down with a minimum order which was not suited to me as i am not a shop or dealer plus the capital outlay was large (i am always skint), although i could have made some cash over the whole deal, but anyway that was a couple of years ago. Anyone want to give it a try?? Grem

Thats another way of doing it as i run a stage 1 front axle...................... Hmmmmmm more food for thought! Back to the mockup bits....................... Grem

Hi Bill, Thanks for your time, I know what you mean but a diagram will definetly help. You have a PM with my e-mail address, just attach and send. Grem

Thanks for all the input guys Thats right Bill, space is at a premuim, i cannot see anyway of making it out of plate as Si said, unless 4mm will suffice to hold the caliper from rotating than bolting the thick plate to the 4mm plate. The drum back plates are 4mm in fact and my first attempt was going to be a chopped down backplate to hold the caliper, but i thought this solution to be a bit more appropiate as a mounting bracket. I see what you mean Bill about the rangie axle housing but i am afraid the caliper mounting holes differ from front to rear (at least on a 90 they do). I tried using the rear 110 salisbury brackets but they are far too thick, have the wrong offset and caliper mounting holes. Bill flange to caliper mounting surface is 18mm a couple of more pics.................. Grem

Hi Bill, Have a look in the series forum, i posted a pic of the whole assembly mounted to the housing. I tried various options with regards hubs but the best solution to make everyting fit was to machine the series hubs due to the disk offset and i wanted to use rover parts for availability. Grem

300tdi 90 calipers from 98>. Discs are rear td5 110 items (non salisbury type). Yes the bracket is better machined from solid but it was worth asking anyway. Yes that plate in fact is a machined down drum, i checked with my 8 spokes and the disco wheels and they have just the right amount of support. With standard wheels i think it will not work. Its easy anyway to have another 2 made out of old drums in a larger diameter as long as they do not foul the caliper body. Its all of a tight squeeze i must admit, but i am happy with the result till now. I will also drill some pilot holes to see what thickness i left in the swivel housings before i proceed any further. Grem

Well my opinion was to do it from solid but it was worth asking. (i am getting impatient now!!) Distortion from the welding is a valid point since the mounting plate will be 10mm min, the other bit is 19mm. Thanks Grem

Hiya all Got to ask some of you fabricators an opinion. I am currently converting my front series axle to run disks. I know of all the kits out there but frankly i feel they are a bit too spendy for my tastes so i went the DIY route and also as a challenge. So i finally mocked up the bracket in question of which you can see the pic. Now for the dilemma. Next step is to have the brakets fabricated, which leaves me with a bit of a difficult decision. Basically i fabricated the bracket from 2 bits of wood, which i later glued together to get the final result. This will be used to help the engineer who will get my parts made help him visualise what i need, besides being used as a mockup and trial fitting. Now for the big question, should i machine from solid or make two bits and weld?? The latter will take less time to do and probably be cheaper, the first option will be time consuming as the rate the engineering guys work here, it will be a year when i get my brakets back. So solid or welded?? Thanks Grem

Howdy all, Well i finally made some progress regarding the disks and brackets. This is still at mock up stage but i feel i am progressing well. Hubs finally machined and tapped, so i got down to the job of fabricating a bracket to hold the caliper from wood!! I went this route as its easy to remake with no costs and i really wanted a trail fit. This will be used as a template for the engineer to make a copy of. Now some pics. Final pic is the mounted caliper assembly (excuse the mess) Now this setup fits 15inch wheels and also disco wheels, i still have to try with a standard landy rim, till now all bits are landrover including the disks and calipers. Some light grinding af the caliper was needed and also the swivel housing had to be clearanced for the caliper holding bolts, or else removal would be impossible. Next step is to have the brakets fabricated, which leave me with a dilemma. I will post this on the fabriacation forum to see what the techies will say. Basically i fabricated the bracket from 2 bits which i later glued together. Now should i machine from solid or make two bits and weld?? ha haha.............. the latter will take less time to do and probably be cheaper, the first option will be time consuming as the rate the engineering guys work here, it will be a year when i get my brakets back. So solid or welded?? Until the next update............ Grem

Bill they were definetly normal series 3 items as they bolted to the bottom, but i do not know out of which year model they were as it was on another guys vehicle. The bent arms where unnoticable by the naked eye, until he got to the road, it handled funny and the the lock from left to right changed. He only noticed when he investigated further by comparing the arms to the spares he had. I did know about the difference in series 1-2 and 3 (mounting method and thickness) but i never knew that there might have been varied thicknesses over the years for the series 3's. In fact the stage 1 arms carry a different part number but the only difference i could find visually was the actual swivel pin was sort of replacable and was made/coated of a bronze type material. I did not notice any variation in thickness as far as i remember. Gareth defender arms are integral with the swivel housing, bending those will be a real feat! I found that streghtening the trackrod on a series was not needed as its protected by the springs and it keeps the weak point on it, its easy to bend back and keeping a spare rod is simple insurance in case you break it. Another reason is that since i run degree shims the rod is very close to the springs, any thicker and it will rub the spring. Ah and also my welded diff gaurd, it just clears it on full lock. Grem

Hi Bill Yes i have seen a couple bent on comp motors running 7.50's, but it take a lot of brute force and serious abuse to bend them. They usually bend after the track rod has been reinforced, so the natural weak point has been removed, hence some forces are fed back to the arms. Grem

How long i do no know but it did mate up with the r380. The mainshaft was modified by an engineering firm here (Malta). Propshaft clearance?? It was fitted in a 90 with a tdi300 and it all cleared well. No photos sorry. Grem

I did one by using an lt77 bellhousing but then shortened the main shaft to suit, and you have a short r380.......................... Grem

Add a hydraulic motor...................... Grem

Dumb question time..................... If you had to spool the cable the other way round would'nt that work as well................. Sorry but i just got curious while fiddling with a pen and a rubber band.................. Grem

Hi bill, Thanks for the input, i am assuming that making the tramp rod too ridgid will bind the springs up. Your solution makes more sense as the rubber doughnut bushes will will give a bit while the springs cycle trough the shackle movement. So the JJ gets shelved and i will proceed with the single tramp rod. Thanks Grem

I have been trying to find a decent solution to the tramp thing, but resorting to tramp bars, top links, and other solutions on the same theme. I have yet to find someone who tried anything (except you bill, on a stage 1 V8 i belive). I have found many solutions via the US sites but space is at a premuim in front. Shocks do not seem to be the solution and shackle reversals need thicker and straighter main leafs IMO. My current plan is to run a simple bar from the top of the diff to the bumper with a johnny joint at one end. i do not know if this will effect handling or bind the suspension, hence my hesitation to try it. The ideal solution is to run a anti tramp bar, rearward in parallel with the prop shaft and have the chassis end shackle mounted, do able, but squeezing it all in is the challange. Grem

Change the flexi hose, its probably breaking down internally and acting as a non return valve or releseing the fluid back slowly. Mechanically there nothing much which can go wrong as the relese bearing is supplied by oil from the gearbox. The rest is just a push rod and a shaft. Grem

Hi James, welcome..................... Grem

Here's mine. Grem

Buy them and sell the bits to the USA, you might make a packet Grem