Gremlin

Pics said of vehicle......................

I run a stage 1 v8 axle Grem

Mine is a 1.003 with lt77 (56a), 200tdi, 4.7diffs and 31" tyres, It pulls very well and i am very pleased with the gearing. Low range is great as you can crawl obstacles or pull a house down! It could do with bigger tyres as i do run out of 5th gear sometimes. GREM

Ah yes and i forgot the dreaded 5cyl turbo volvo/vw lt whatsit engine fitted to a 90 my ex gf got from the uk!!! arrrrrrgh what a nightmare, sure it was a bargain!!! in fact the engine nearly fell out of the engine bay one time, mounts got ripped out of the block!!!! Grem

Some answers from my experiances. 1 a spacer that long sounds like a bad idea, the stresses on the output bearing will probably make it retire prematurely. My solution is the one you do not wish to hear, CUT AND HACK, pics of my jobbie. 2 Engine in the same place, gearbox moved, new props to suit. 3 Mine is LWB so i cannot help much, but i did both props with high angle yokes and longer slip joints. Pics of front and rear.

Ford fiesta 1.6 or 1.8 diesel with a turbo fitted on in a swb!! Grem

Fridge, i run a normal series 3 speedo cable with the lt230, just remove the 3 holed retaining washer, then just clamp it with the LT cable retaing fork, it will fit. I run an 1.003 lt230, 4.7diffs with a lwb speedo and my speedo is pretty spot on( + or - 5mph), but i run small tyres 31". I left the same speedo gear inside the TC that went with the rangie speedo. In fact i was amazed at how close the speedo was for the mixed drive train and tyres i have. Seems to work pretty well for a first try. Give it a try and then check how accurate you are with another vehicle, mine varied from vehicle to vehicle, i guess that everybody gets different results with different tyres, and i have no gps to really verify accuracy. Grem

Thats a different box, not an r380 for sure. Grem

Cheers, Thanks Grem

Guys my microcat fubared and does not seem to want to work for me! I need the part number for the rear disk brake for a 1999> onwards 110 defender (the non salisbury type diff). Any ideas?? Pattern part numbers are also welcome or if somebody has one laying about, all i need is a confirmation of the physical dimentions of the disk. Thanks Grem

Sounds like the clutch to me, are the symptoms the same in fwd or 4x4? Grem

Yes it would work but its not ideal, find a na 2.5 then, as thats what you will end up with! Grem

Waste of time and money................................ The boy racers here do it with a combination of fiddly microswitches and valves, just to have a woooooshing sound. It gives no performance gains what so ever. Grem

Update, after lots of meausuring it seems i will have to abandon the idea of the shallow offset disks and go with rear defender items! The late 90 calipers i have will stick out too much from the hub without wheel clearance problems. Its either i go with 20mm wheel spacers or go for another caliper! The other path i can take is to keep my rebuilt 90 calipers, fit defender rear discs with some sort creative mounting bracket! I will mock one up with the defender rear disk (Easier to source and fit for me) and take some pics. Grem

Fridge, drill your own holes, I have the same TC and thats what i did. If you have the machinery DIY, but you need a special drill bit, i took mine to an engineering firm who drilled 3 holes on a milling machine in 5 min for a minimal fee. Grem

Hi Bill Thanks for the input, i am using 8 spoke white wheelers or disco steel rims so the the rim clearance should not be an issue. The only thing is that i will probably not be able to fit a standard rim after all is done, although that does not matter as i have 2 sets of 8 spokes and a set of discos. I did some measuring and it looks like its going all to be a tight squeeze, but as others have already managed, i should too. Keep the suggestions coming! I will update whats what as i progress further, its a bit of a slow process as many of you might have already found out. Thanks Grem

Thanks thats already a start, i was looking at disks with a similar diameter and center hole as landrover items but with less offset. So the hilux ones are the closest to that requirement. therefore it seems you used a car disk, back on the hunt then................ Grem

Time for the next question, what toyota model? Hilux? any chance of a part number? I am asking as the ones i found have 6 mounting holes!! I am having trouble locating the right disc with maybe 5 holes!! Help!! Grem

I might be wrong here, but isnt a disco turbo held by 3 bolts not 4? Grem

I broke 1 relay shaft and twisted another, no power steering! I am still running with it but someday it will make way for a real power steering box. I cannot see how it will hold up with more force transmitted into it by the PS. Grem

Yes Grem

I had the same problem, i just ditched the resistor and used one side to switch the coil on my buggy, works a treat! No problems till this day. Grem

Just buy a good degreaser or brake cleaner, then scrub it down with a stiff brush. This is how mine looked before reassembly, it could have done with more scrubbing but i could'nt be bothered!. Grem

The ways its done here, is weld the spider to the carrier and then devise a way to support the front output via a machined piece containing a bearing or bush, either machine the splines down or find a bearing to suit. Grem

Probably it will not kick back as much since the effort at the steering wheel is minimal, in fact jericho said And he runs power steering, as yet i do not (hopefully soon)...............I know that the fronts rotate all the time but with no power. The diff will let go of any mismatch is uj's speeds trough the prop. Jericho, you are in full 4wd all the time. The center diff just does not make any difference, all the center diff does is make the 2 TC outputs rotate at different speed round corners. Locking it just makes both outputs rotate at the same speed. Taking corners fast is ok, but try full lock off a stop sign with some welly, no power steering and all hell breaks loose at the steering wheel. In fact it gets worse cause of the center diff, if you welly it with uj's, and as soon as the front looses traction, all the power goes to one wheel at the front axle! with very nasty jives at the steering wheel. If i had to have the options now i would go with a 2wd conversion and leave the whole front end alone. I had your same setup tonk, but my homemade conversion died due to spline wear, so i went with the lt230, the only major improvement has been low range, the landy can crawl any obstacle with ease. Permanent 4wd has been a pain until i sourced the front axle, road manners have vastly improved in permanent 4wd, but i miss my 2wd burnouts The only thing i do suggest is that you find a 1:003 high range from a 3 speed RR, if you are keeping the 4.7diffs, at least you can maintain highway speeds. The 1.2 is not bad but a bit on the low side, larger tyres may compensate. The other 2 ratios are only suitable for tractor like speeds and only suitable with higher diff ratios. Grem