[Radio Power Source - will this work?]

4 minutes ago, Sharp said:

Something like this?

 

yes , i think that will do 

[Radio Power Source - will this work?]

29 minutes ago, Snagger said:

He has two triggers for the relay that isolates the stereo from the leisure battery - one is the ign switch and the other the toggle switch in the rear.  As long as one of those is on, the relay will close.

yep , need to look beter before commenting 🙂 

isn't it wise to put a diode in the feed from the leisure battery to the switch , to stop a huge current flowing when the leisure battery is empty and you turn the ignition to "on" (and you forgot to turn the back switch off) ? 

[Radio Power Source - will this work?]

only thing is , you have to get to the back off the car to turn the radio on ...

[Simplify Td5 wiring loom]

https://www.autosparks.co.uk/land-rover-defender-90-110-td5-2-5ltr-diesel-truck-chassis-harness

 

[200TDi: Injectors and Torque]

45 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

It does'nt age harden but it does work harden, compressing the copper washer every time it is tightened up is work hardening, annealing  the washer will soften it to allow it to compress easier again 

regards Stephen

yep , that's the only thing copper does ...work harden ..
the "original" injector seals have a small ridge pressed in to the washer , this flattens when torqued. so no sence in trying to anneal these ...

 

[200TDi: Injectors and Torque]

6 hours ago, Peaklander said:

I wonder if new injector washers should be annealed as a matter of course, just in case they have been on a shelf somewhere for ages? I don't know how long 'ages' is though.

"pure" copper doesn't age harden , so no need to anneal the washers ... i think the quality of the washers has more impact on how they perform ..

(for this reason i use original landrover washers for the injectors  (and so far they still seal))

[Ranger Rover 2005. Key does not turn, weird barcode on dash, no lights inside, can't open trunk]

if you charge with 750Ma , it's going to take a few weeks to charge it 🙂 

[New chassis / brake pipe clip holes]

mine's a Richards also (110) and has no holes , on some points there's a dimple were the hole should be , but not al holes are "dimpeld" so i take the measurements from a old chassis .

just paint the drilled hole inside with a good primer.

[4x2 RRC with GKN Overdrive]

i see this ending in a very expensive undrivable classis range rover 😉 

 

but if you like tinkering , have a go at it ...

[200tdi lifting eye]

i wouldn't be to bothered to undo the headbolts , put the lifting eye in place and tightening them again (since they are at the end off the head)

 

[Easiest Audio Install Ever (Defender 300tdi) cheap and fast]

is this "just" a speaker , and you stream via your phone ? 

love the simpel mounting idea !

[Mog 404 axles]

how the hell do you get that seam so smooth 😉 

(i always end up with sealant all over the place )

[Main Bearing 300tdi ERR6933 - what is this product ID code?]

5 hours ago, Snagger said:

 But I can see why it’s tempting to throw new bearings in on a tidy but used engine without removing the crank shaft.

but that leaves the question how do you change the last one (close to the gearbox) 

[Main Bearing 300tdi ERR6933 - what is this product ID code?]

bit of a strange question i would think , your mechanic needs to measure the crankshaft journals and figure the right size from a chart in the manual .....

that beats putting the wrong bearings in found by some obscure number 🙂 

[a new galvanised bullkhead ?]

10 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

I didn't think they changed the bulkhead vents at all through the life of them? Just that they changed the type/location of the vent seals. 

it's not the bulkhead seals that differ , it's the vent that blows on your windscreen inside the cab . seems that from 200tdi they are bigger (richards state's 10" for old and 14" from 200tdi onwards)

 

[a new galvanised bullkhead ?]

4 minutes ago, Arjan said:

Maer (but I'm biased as I have one)

didn't include Maer because i couldn't find a galvanised one , only stainless (and at the moment not availeble)

[a new galvanised bullkhead ?]

hello all , 

it seems there's some choice when buying a new galvanised bulkhead , a short search on google shows :

 

richardson

shielder

ultra bulkheads

 

i'm looking for a NA version (with the smaller windscreen vents) 

 

any thoughts on quality ?

 

[Is this hub seal fitted right?]

i don't think you have enough space to fit this seal the other way , because off the lip sticking out

[Mog 404 axles]

weld on a small strip off steel checker plate , much more in line with your fabrication.

 

[Mog 404 axles]

another vote for the conveyer belt , without the cut 

 

[Sankey trailer info]

have you tried the merlin database ?

https://merlinarchive.uk/

[Lost hub cap and leak]

45 minutes ago, Snagger said:

Few of us will be surprised by that. How they aren’t prosecuted by Trading Standards I don’t know.

maybee nobody complains about the quality (most of the parts have a 2 year warranty)

[Banded Steels]

6 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

Got the rolling gear.......

hmmmmmm banded unirover rims for Sid......

Regards Stephen

have a look at u-tube for some homemade fixtures to cut the rim in half (that's were i saw it )

[Banded Steels]

3 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

I had 5 done - but I guess a bit like a space saver most people could manage with a std size spare. 

ok , i get it , i use 5 tyres with the same size (255/85-16) and rotate once a year , so the spare gets used to .

[Banded Steels]

Just now, Stellaghost said:

I wonder how difficult they would be to do at home........

Regards Stephen

not to difficult , you need a good fixture to get a decent cut all around , and something to roll the filler strip nice and round.