hurbie
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Posts posted by hurbie
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if you've read carefully that's exactly why he has this jig ....
(and it now serve's 3 jobs , restore a body shell , get the chassis out of the way , and make it easy to paint the chassis ....)
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long time ago i had to make the same reparation on a 300tdi discovery , some bright soul put a thick washer under the spring to increase oilpressure !! the previous owner had the engine rebuild , but forgot to remove the washer , so the engine was creating 25 bar (!!) oil pressure and blew the oilfilters apart . took me some time to find this fault (only days before setting off to africa for a charity run) .
as far as my memmory goes , i only removed the sump to get acces tot the relief valve , so no need to dismantle the front engine cover for this
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i believe they calculated this years ago , you get a puncture once every 100000 km's . so there's no real need for a spare . (but i always carry them)
new heavy goodsvehicle's in the netherlands often don't come with a spare (save's some weight, and most drivers can't change a tyre anymore)
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5 minutes ago, DC_ said:
@hurbie thanks, being a bit thick there. I got all the service and repairs reports done to the truck over it’s life time...
👌😏
were these included with the car ? or did you find them somewhere ?
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i think you have a different google then i have :
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3 minutes ago, DC_ said:
I was hoping to find the “unit title” details? I didn’t get this from the Merlin site.....
just type the details in google , it will come up with some hits (if not all)
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well , you don't have to take it to africa , it's already been there ...
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i use a trailer cargo net , removed the bungee cord , and fitted a wire cord through it , on the front and back there's a aluminium tube supporting the front and back , the side's are fixed to aircraft cargo rails (mounted on the side's just under the roof)
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i use a double burner coleman stove running on coleman fuel , made a cupboard for the burner and pot's and pan's . so it's stow's away nicely.
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looking good , what size is it ?
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i don't think he has ever seen a defender wiper system .....
(for a normal car he's right ...)
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25 minutes ago, Snagger said:
I put heavy grease in the bushes on assembly and then let the 1-shot do the rest.
i think that's the main difference , putting the grease in on assembly .
i rebuild my swivels with a drop of oil in the railko, so i don't believe grease will get there.
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i wouldn't put grease in an railko system , the grease is way to thick to lubricate the top pin and railko bush .
just use oil (like it was supposed to run on) , and as mentioned above , if you get leaks , put some one shot grease in to thicken the oil .
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31 minutes ago, monkie said:
Seems a bit odd as the oil pressure should be high when initially started. I think the best thing to do is get an actual reading. Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and fit it to get actual readings just to absolutely rule out a sender/wiring issue of some sort.
not iff all the oil is drained from the oilpump , then it take's time to fill up the pump and oilways.
i would go with western and look at the oilpump and reliefvalve.
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2 hours ago, paime said:
If we can collectively design an adjustable defender door hinge then we'll be able to collectively retire off the profits as well
haha i'm in for a 5 door set ...
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4 hours ago, sgo70 said:
I used Sikaflex 252 and flush mount aircraft rivets.
what tools do you need to use these aircraft rivets ?
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if you disconect all the linkage from the gearbox , the diif lock lever has 3 positions (just like the original question ) , i noticed this a long time ago , sorting out the diff lock linkage for a friends 110 (and i also have no idea what the 3rd position is ...)
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i woud send it back and try another one ...
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i'm in no hurry , so few months is not a problem
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a 127 v8 cherry picker 😀
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a forward control ...
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i would try and measure what is going on , put a voltmeter (black on - battery ) on the thin wire going to the startermotor relay (make sure the thin wire is still connected to the starter (if impossible to exces, make a splined wire), start and see what the voltage is on the wire .
step 2 is put the voltmeter on the thick wire on the starter motor (again leave the thick cable connected) , and see if the voltage drops away if you start the engine.
this will make sure you have power on both wires.
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9 hours ago, magna42 said:
are there any seals or hoses etc you'd suggest changing while doing the job?
i can't help you with that question , i don't have td5 knowledge ...
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i would buy a good quality pump , drop the tank and fit it , and your done for the next 20 years ...
no need to cut up a good floor ...
ideal length of wheel stud? need measurements (Wolf rim/alloys)
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
or fit a very thin (6mm) custom spacer between the hub and rim , so the studs are flat with the rim.