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Posts posted by hurbie
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another tip , let the engine sit for at least 24 hours before starting . it seems most newly seated seals leak because the seal didn't have time to get back to it's original size (after the white center is removed).
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if you have a original front propshaft , give it a really good clean , there are arrows on both sides of the slider to help with assembly 🙂Â
(and the 110 is out of phase as stated earlier, (only the front))
Â
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1 hour ago, Snagger said:
 I imagine inflatable supports to be even less robust in bad weather, and there is also the concern over punctures. Â
we have a company in the netherlands that makes stormproof (11BF) tent's for decade's , they are really bulletproof , and punctures hapen very rarely.
https://www.karstententen.com/inflatable-tents/introduction/the-concept/
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19 hours ago, Dudley909 said:
 and the chassis batch number year did not tally with the supposed vehicle year.
Â
were do you find this on the chassis ?
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2 minutes ago, L19MUD said:
need to try and find the overhaul manualÂ
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no need for a special manual , it's in the "normal" workshop manual (under steering , but you might guess that)
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remove the worm from the housing and inspect the top bearing , this bearing race is part of the worm (unlike the other side wich is a "normal" bearing race) and can/t be fixed ....
(or at least i have no idea how you would fix that ...)
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if i had to do a salisbury again , i would buy a "clamshell" bearing puller . with a normal puller it is a real pain to get the bearings off , in the end i had to make a adapter plate to use with a "normal" puller because they were that tight .
Â
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maybee this is usefull , 220volt and with build in waterpump.
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happy new year to everybody , and let's hope everybody gets there projects going.
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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
I have to admit I've never had trouble with just a screwdriver and hammer.
Mike
same here , i didn't even know there was a special tool for this job 🙂Â
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ok , thanks for all the replays , i will have it tested to see if it is at fault and can be repaired.
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have you tried to turn the engine when you put the gearboxes's on , it could be there's something binding when mating the two together .
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yes , i'm sorry indeed you call this a alternator 😉Â
bulb is working , with the old alternator it did burn less brightly as with the new (used) one .
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hello all ,Â
Â
first of all , best wishes to all of you !!
Â
my daily driver (110 , 1987 disco 200tdi) has some trouble charging , the dynamo sometimes doesn't charge at all , if the Rpm gets above 1500-2000 it will kick in and charge normal.
i changed the dynamo for one i had laying around (was a 35amp v8 one , so i had to clock the front housing to fit). so everything is working like it should .
Â
so the question is , can you check a dynamo outside the vehicle with a multimeter , i opened it up , and checked the brushes (i had the idea these were worn, but the where still good (only very dirty)) , checked the 3 diode's , also seem to work as they should . is there anything else i can measure before sending it off to the repair shop ?
Â
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standlampen = stadslicht
kruislicht = een militaire lamp die op een bord met een kruis schijnt (dit is voor "verduisterde" omstandigheden zodat iemand achter je in een colonne je kan volgen)
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"standlampen" is the same as marking lights.
"kruislicht" is the convoy-lamp (only a different variant , it has a small lamp wich reflects on a plastic plate with a cross of white semi reflecting tape (hence the name cross-light) )
Â
example of a "kruislicht"Â :Â
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brings back memory's , been there a couple years ago on my way to Gambia.
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hello all ,Â
Â
does anybody know who makes upholstery for the old style 110/90 front seats with the plastic hard style back plate ?
Â
greetings gerben
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STC2848 is listed as 3 and 4 bolt boxes defender discovery range rover.
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
@hurbie, happy now ?.......lol Regards StephenÂ
Â
way beter !!
Â
(and i do love your build )
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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:
I’d probably avoid the Anderson’s if you’re going to put any lube etc on them… they’ll just attract dust and dirt as they’re not very well sealed even with the caps.Â
that's very easy to fix , mount your anderson connector the normal way , and get the sikaflex out , fill the back of the connector around the cable with the sticky stuff ... put on some grease on the contact's and a dustcap to finish ...
works for years on HGV .... so may be usefull on our hobby vehicles 🙂Â-
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isn't that a bit tight , when running, the engine flexes around the enginemounts a fair distance ....
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3 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
The tensioner is a replacement item when the belt is changed (ideally)
i know , i just put the new tensioner on only to find that the belt wouldn't fit , so had to take it off again . (no idea why they made it this way , the tensioner has more then 1 cm of travel left with the belt tightend )
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On 10/5/2021 at 6:16 PM, hurbie said:
another thing i noticed , the timing belt is really tight (if you put a torque wrench on the tensioner , i don't see any movement from the "loose" position) , i had to remove the tensioner to get the belt on . is this normal on discovery 200TDI ?
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was helping a friend do his timing belt (this time a genuine defender spec 200tdi) , and noticed the same "tight" timing belt , again had to remove the tensioner to get the belt on , the tensioner is almost on the start (or loose)Â position when torqued to the right spec .Â
(forgot to take a picture ...) -
thanks for the reply's .
Â
so bassicly i need a good 2.25 petrol for parts ...and some spare time ....
Banded Steels
in International Forum
Posted
to bad it's only 4 ..... don't people use spare's anymore ?