hurbie
-
Posts
918 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by hurbie
-
-
6 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
I hear you, but want to be able to access on a regular basis (yearly) for ease of maintenance...
i thought there's not much to service under the loadspace. but it's been a while since i last owned a disco
-
just weld in a new floor , decent coating and your set for another 25 years (maybee put in a little acces hatch for the fuelpump)
-
do you use decent quality fuse's ? the old 110's say 20A in the fusebox lid
-
there used to be injector cleaner that you can run your engine directly with (so no need to put it in the tank , just connect the feed in the bottle)
-
remove the doorcard from the passenger door and have a look ....
-
it's normaly on the drivers side (the flat side you see if you open the door)
-
look for the data plate on the seatbox , it should have the military registration number , with this you can find it's history.
-
my advice would be to just rebuilt the 230 and leave it stock , youre not going crazy on the off-road bit , so the stock car will be all you need (as you already know) leaving it stock also is easier to get parts in case something breaks far away from home ....
-
3
-
-
reliable and German in the same sentence ..... you are probebly confusing Japan and Germany ....
-
1
-
-
i wish you all the best , and a speedy recovery !
-
1
-
-
On 12/21/2021 at 6:57 AM, western said:
Drillings for cam bearing oil feed, there should be a rubber plug in each of those holes.
Part numbrr for the plugs is ERR5034
am i right in thinking the camshaft bearing closes the hole to prevent oil flowing out , or is there something else blocking the oil-flow ?
-
what the hell is a "chalice" (google come's up with a roman drinking cup 🙂 )
-
is the nut on the steering arm on the bottem off the box still tight ?
-
i would go for "defender" on the side , and leave the polar bear as your own brand/mark .
-
1
-
-
oh , and you do need the glowplugs to be hot , or it will never start with this weather ...
-
i do wonder how long the headgasket is going to last with 50psi /3.4 Bar turbopressure 😵
the ARP studs might be a nice upgrade (i wonder if you torque these the same as bolts )
-
or use a small chisel and hack off the nuts , there not that strong ....
-
if it was my car , i would try a different set of shocks , (just use the standard armstrong shocks for a whooping 25 ish pounds ...)(https://www.terraintechparts.com/collections/land-rover-suspension-shock-absorbers )
the vehicle was fine before the swop to new shocks ....
-
my main concern was/is oil starvation on extreme angles , landrover spend some time getting this right in there engine's , so it seems strange that GM would go to the same hassle for a engine desinged for a road going car .
but it seems i'm completly wrong on this subject ..
-
and i don't think you have any terain cappabilities left with a engine designed for a road car ...
-
wasn't there something with 3.5 v8 oilpumps needing priming if left empty for a while ? don't know if it the same on this engine.
-
10 hours ago, oneandtwo said:
...... and that’s also before having to potentially replace the worm unit which more often than not is pitted, costing another £75.
if you can get me a LHD wormunit (RTC4406) in good condition for 75,- , i'm your man .....
-
i hate to say it , but it's already october ....
(and i really like to see other 200tdi's with belt "oddness" )
-
so , another day spannering and waiting for parts , most of it arrived early this morning so i could get something done , made a giant cockup repairing a stripped thread ...
the M10 stud the static idler mounts to , didn't quite make the 40NM torque , it felt the stud was torn out of the housing . so decided to put a helicoil in it , just to be sure .... in a moment of brainshortage i put in a M12 helicoil ..... the hole in the idler is only 10,5mm so that is not going to fit . after about 1 hour grinding with a dremel tool i got the hole opened up to 12mm .....
i think i need to find a replacement front cover for the next cambelt change ....
another thing i noticed , the timing belt is really tight (if you put a torque wrench on the tensioner , i don't see any movement from the "loose" position) , i had to remove the tensioner to get the belt on . is this normal on discovery 200TDI ?
the good news : it's running , tommorrow the final pieces
Removing brake caliper- seized bolts
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted · Edited by hurbie
remember to use a 12 point 13mm socket , a normal 6 point/flange socket will round off the little points on the bolt head , and have no grip at all !
and use a hammer to set the socket really good on the bolt !