Sigi_H

No, because the current through the indicator lamp is the current through the brushes. When it lights, the brushes must have contact. Sounds like a diode.

thank you

up ...

I owned 3 Citroen BX which have similar technics. When you waited to long with refilling nitrogen, the diaphragm inside the gas container got damaged and leaky. The gas container looks like Citroen. That means, if the diaphragm inside is gone, try to find a Citroen one if the thread fits. There existed the possibility to put a valve in the top of the gas container to refill it easily. Normally they died from loosing pressure slowly until the diaphragm got inside contact to the top of the container. Then there was friction to the diaphragm and made it leaky ... over. That means in most cases high pressure is gone. As I know from Citroen struts, they have some teflon seals inside. Makes it a bit special. I have two old self leveling units and will repair them ... someday ... yes, someday 🤨

if you got time, lets see pictures of the removed one

I had another idea. I think, that geometry in the OD is given and good. Your problem points to worn clutch liner inside the clutch. It possibly slips, because the bars at the hydraulic cylinders and the studs inside the springs restrict the way, the clutch can travel. Due to the missing liner it starts slipping. That means in my eyes, if you put a washer between the bars and the studs (allowing the studs to travel more), the clutch will get contact again. The work can be done with mounted OD and shows definitely whether the clutch is gone, due to all that slipping. This is a test, to get information, what's really wrong. If it still slips, its not the clutch.

Everyone has to decide himself and of course, I did not see your panels. I just report my friends experiences and he has a lot.

Normally it should build around 30 bar. Pump is running always, but if the solenoid is not engaged, the oil will go through a bypass back into the sump. If this bypass is blocked a little bit, there will be more pressure than almost 0 bar (lets say 5) and make the clutch slipping in disengaged mode, because the springs can't press the clutch to the cone as much as it is possible.

@snagger yes, you are right. One never knows. But keep in mind, that even chinese factories are producing A, B and C Parts. Not all of them have the same quality but look the same.

another idea: whats about the distance between the one way roller clutch and the pinion carrier? If it is to big, you could have the effect, that the cone clutch can't reach the annular carrier so easy. If its only 1 mm thicker, the spring will lose force, but gears are still in mesh. Just an idea.

This is why I recommend one or two washers under the spring, because this will not increase the springrate, but the force applied to the cone clutch. I had a look at the sketches In the lower part of the sketches you can see, that the cone clutch bypasses the planetary gear, it is in direct drive mode. That means, that friction must be between cone clutch and annular carrier. If the friction surface of the annular carrier is worn, each of the procedures regarding the spring must fail. This could only get better, when the inner clutch coating is thicker or the annular carrier is new.

A cheap panel with high el. power makes no sense, when it sucks water under the transparent top layer and corrodes internally. It will be destroyed soon. But everybody has to decide and nobody can see on ebay whether they are built solidly

It's a good aspect to have a look at the "off" pressure! To my GKN: I am really surprised! Last action was to take gear oil instead of ATF, since I found out, that it can operate for a longer distance with higher viscosity. The result was it engaged perfectly, but didn't disengage any longer. That was last weekend. During this week I used it on short distance and was wondering ... it worked perfectly. Engaging and disengaging. What I did too last weekend was to put the breather in a catch tank made from a PET bottle to see if oil is thrown out there, since I always had low oil levels. Everything was dry including the catch tank. Nothing in it and the OD still works. What changed was, that I had the breather on a suction line. This line is linked to the airbox. This means that always slight vacuum is applied to all the gearboxes. I separated the OD breather into its own catch tank and since then it seems to work. Sorry, I can't see a logical connection, but it seems so. Oil pressure equipment makes progress, but I don't have a banjo bolt for an eye fitting with an imperial thread. The screw at the bottom beside the plate is 16 G 3/8"

coment to the video A friend of mine is working in solar business. He told me, electrical power does not say everything about quality. It is important, that panels are built perfectly in mechanical shape. Often people come to them, having cheap panels on the roof ... with drastically reduced el. power or mechanically damaged.

You say what I mean. Almost all. They normally have input voltages of around 36 V and step down to ca 13.8 V Battery level, which means (36V) 2 x open voltage, 2 panels in series. Efficiency rises a lot then. Where parallel setup breaks down, because generated voltage is to low, serial is still charging. Efficiency will rise a lot, when the panels stay "cool". That is also better with portable ones, which are placed to get cooled from the back side. I am able to store my panels easily in the car. In my last vacation I needed them once in ca 5 weeks. On the roof I only have 30 W to keep the battery alive, when the car parks for longer time at home.

It's better to park in the shadow and have portable modules in the sun. Keep in mind, that a MPPT works best if two 12V Panels are connected in series, since a MPPT is a stepdown converter. 2 panels in series are easy to manage with something like that portable modules can easily be adjusted to the sun in order to get more energy

Engage the Diff lock, when it is possible and not, when you feel it is necessary. This will save the thrust washers. It is possible, when the surface is slippery and the tires can eliminate differences in revs

Who knows the couple from the Ambulance? There Names are Angus and Kati. I met them on Iceland this year.

Years ago I had contact to Dave from Ashcroft. He told me, that they use cases like that. I had it for 180.000 km in my LT230. He was right.

I use that one in addition with the clecos and I am absolutely convinced https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.projahn.de%2Fprodukt%2Fprofi-blindnietvorsatz-adapter-mit-haltegriff-zur-verarbeitung-von-blindnieten-der-durchmesser-30.html

When it is striped, have a look at the brake ring. I saw pictures with hotspots on it and it is available separately at Devon4x4 ... possibly not without reason

ahhhh ... I understand ... but never heard about sarcasm ... I had to consult wikipedia 😂

I'm german speaking ... what means "sarcasm" ? 😇

10 mm will be quite a lot (to much). Try to press it 10 mm between your fingers and you will get a feeling of force increase. Don't forget, you have 4 springs

In my eyes the movement of the conical clutch restricts this compression of the springs. The clutch will only have to move between the body of the annulus and the brakering in the body of the device. I think this will not be more than a few millimeter. 2 or 3 ... thats it.