Sigi_H

I wouldn't even galvanize an original chassis, because there are so many overlaps and traps for the acid in it. The same in the bulkhead. A lot of sheet metal is double layered in it. No zinc will go there and acid in which the bulkhead is put before galvanizing will stay there. If you do so, you will have to know exactly how it is built. Oneten double layered Chassis part with acid trap

Without scientific confirmation i would say use cheaper oil but change it more often. Normally that sludge is a emulsion of water and oil. Longer journeys heat the water out.

I believe, the oil does not get hot enough. My oil (200Tdi) takes about 10 to 12 km to get hot. The water is hot long before. I can see it on the oil pressure. Pressure drops significantly to 2.5 bar then

No, because there is a flow in the intake system. It is not static. You are right, if you view it static. The limit of the turbo itself may be at about 1.4 bar to 1.5 bar measured at the turbo. It is simply not interesting, which pressure at the valves is resulting. With 1.4 bar at the turbo you are close to a maximum. Thats it.

I have an Allisport double core intercooler and 19 psi managed by wastegate ... but still testing.

look at this video. Especially at 29:13

if it is to difficult to get it, take an electric vacuum pump, like used in many cars on the scrapyard. Works perfect

I would never do that. We live in the age of cheap USB and Bluetooth Cams and each electronic equipment has a display. It's so easy to have a view to each angle of the car while driving. If the law allows to steer on the "wrong" side, put cameras in.

Ok. I had about 21 psi and reduced it to 19 psi because I wasn't sure about consequences. When I reduced the pressure I saw the increase of EGT. Do you think despite the high altitude problem nothing will happen? What about the intercooler itself and the hoses? If thats ok I am going to leave the pressure at 19 psi. My intercooler is the Allisport double core.

Thanks. I know that pdf. It confirms my opinion that an increase by the main screw only makes sense with more boost pressure and a larger intercooler. But it is then the first stage and the second stage is the adjustment of the boost pin. And always have an eye on the EGT 🥴 But it doesn't answer my question, what the boost pressure limits are and why

Since I am about tuning my 200Tdi, what component or physical process is limiting the boost pressure? At the moment I run it around 19 psi and I believe EGT is droping by rising the pressure (what's good). I can imagine, that it is only a problem, if you are in high regions. The turbo will spin a lot higher at high altitudes to achieve the adjusted pressure. Until now I only turned in the main delivery screw 1/2 turn. Smoke is not to much and can be controlled quite simple with the right foot. I'd like to leave it like that, because it will be easy to turn it back, when I have to make the exhaust gas control each two years. I do not exactly understand, whats the difference between adjusting the boost pin parameters and the main screw. I think the engine characteristics is adjusted in the boost pin things, like diaphragm turns, spring load and collar. That means, if I turn the main screw in, I keep the stock characteristics, but rise the delivery in all revs. Isn't it like that?

I saw that thread quite late. Once I bought a TD waterpump for my 200Tdi by accident. I found that the bolt circle of the holes on the pulley was smaller (or bigger. I can't remember). I adjusted it by filing the holes in the pulley oval. The pump worked and fitted perfectly

I switched to a Salisbury with disk brakes. Does not brake harder, but is a lot easier to maintain. No adjusting by hand each half year. I have a '83 Oneten and my setup was identical to the pic in the link.

Have a look here: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/landRoverFAQ/FAQ_rearbrakes.htm

Normally the lower threshold of the switches is ca. 0.3 bar. A good Tdi would operate the switch surely because pressure when idle is ca. 1 bar when hot. I'd recommend to measure! I never experienced that bad switches.

Since a short time I have a 1.1 transfer box in my Oneten from 1983 with a 200Tdi engine. If the engine is tuned it is ok in my eyes. Why? It now feels like a car with a 4-gear box but additionally from 80 km/h you can engage the 5. gear and it is significantly quieter. 4-gear box, because Switzerland is limited to 80 km/h, except motorways. This is with 255 MT's. This works even in the Swiss mountains. Everything is one gear lower than previously I enjoy the low noise level a lot and wouldn't do it different. 1.22 will have almost the same effect. A slightly tuned 200Tdi will do it. I will see how the spline of the LT77 will do with it.

Sometimes they use complete assembly lines from original manufacturers. As far as I know ie Bosch sold the complete line for diesel injectors to China. I bought some 200Tdi injectors from China years ago and they work since 200.000 km. No need to copy anything and qualitity is high too

Thats another reason, you are right. But maybe it wouldn't go back (release the brakes) while "getting cold"

there are actually only two reasons. One brake caliper gets hot due to friction and the backflow to the master brake cylinder is prevented. Therefore the brake fluid expands and blocks all 4. But there are 2 circuits 😞 Problem with PDWA Valve?

Investigating some of my old cylinders I found, that a swap of the pistons is possible. But there will be some rust between the cylinder and the piston. It is mostly at the end of the cylinder, so it doesn't harm the seal on the piston. Remove it carefully.

Must be the metric, they landed on the dark side of the moon with ... 😂 😅 Measure the length of 10 turns of the thread. If it is 25 mm, it is M20.

I had a defect pressure switch on my Moto Guzzi years ago and one on my 200Tdi too. Since I do not really rely to those switches I installed a direct pressure gauge. I drilled a hole in the oil filter carrier and connected a simple manometer (6 bar) as pressure gauge.

The clamp for the outer hull of the cable on the lever became loose. So the lever moves the entire cable instead of the inner part of it.

I sometimes thought, the only problem bleeding the clutch system is, that you have to crawl under the car and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder while another person presses the pedal That means to me, having a brake hose attached to the slave cylinder instead of the bleeder, but with a bleeder on the end, makes it possible to have the bleeder beside the reservoir under the hood 🙂 I discarded that idea, when I found out, that it is so easy to block the pedal down for a night.

Just a question. Isn't the only difference between solid and vented a distance between the halves of the caliper? Or are there differences between threads as well?