Stephen337

My 300tdi doesnt have isofix. Infact I had real problems getting a child seat in the back as the short seat depth and the top of the rear wheel arch is too far forwards for the ones with a 'leg'. We ended up having to get the rear seatbelt extended to be able to wrap around a infant carrier. The clip part of the seatbelt that attaches to the floor needed to be shortened also to stop 'buckle crunch' as well.

I used to own an MGF and the jets used to freeze up alot here in the UK. The engine was in the back so there was no heat to keep the water in the jets liquid. The first time I had to drive 100 miles with no washers on damp salted motorways was no fun at all! I think the alcohol in the washer water would evaporate off and leave water in the tips of the jets to freeze. A kit from some rover garage cost about 25quid (maybe was a good few years ago) and was just a replacement for the jets with a tiny coil to keep the jet from freezing up. Sorted out the problem. You could tell they were working becuase the jets were in the middle of the bonnet and when frosty there would be two melted bits around the jets. MGF Washer jets

Ta for all the help, I was a bit rude and did not say thanks in the first place. I have not been able to look at it recently. Work has been sending me all over the place and whilst it has been working (albeit in slomo mode) I have not been thinking about it, and I dont want to spend any money on it at the mo. I tried a couple of things, firstly if the wire from the ECU was not connected at all (and a live from the battery was connected) then no change I seem to remember, still got 'check engine'. So I looked into a set of resistors that would mimic the solenoid and had no joy, so I can only figure something else must be wrong. Right now Im thinking of getting the http://www.bsecorp.com/products.php people to check the ECU out. Unless I can find a similar company that can test an ECU closer to home. (Cause it will involve being without the car for a few days whilst its posted around the country) After Sotal's suggestion that not having the ECU wire connected should be OK (and the fact that I tried it, and it didnt) I figure that there is something a bit more fundamentally wrong at the mo. Hopefully Im going to get the error codes read from the ECU tomorrow I hope that that can give me a better idea as to whats wrong. Ta Stephen

Going to reply on the original thread, not wanting to hijack Derick's thread.....

Where are you getting the replacement ECU from? I think I have a problem with mine and Im looking for a replacement. The only place I have found on the Internet (so far) that will do a test / replacement service is http://www.bsecorp.com/products.php I still have this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=17762 problem. Because I suspect the ECU Im slow at putting my hand in my pocket cautious. Ta Stephen

Mine has consistently over the last three years given me 27-28 MPG (1995 Jap Auto 300tdi) thats over about 45K miles I do plenty of motorway and town and have a heavy right foot.

Does anyone know if the ECU should leak current? When I had the ECU out it had corrosion on one corner like a leaking battery. I put the multimeter on it and it was leaking 0.002A to the body? Has anyone had one apart?

I have been having similar problems with my Disco, see: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=17762 Guy H, and others, have been helping me. My Disco, at first, intermittently would start / not start. The problem being that the diesel stop solenoid was not working (low voltage) I have wired up the stop solenoid to connector 216 as per the '300tdi without EGR' wiring diagram and now it starts no problem, however I have a 'check engine' light and I think the ECU is in limp home mode as it is a bit down on power. The stop solenoid definitely makes a loud noise when the engine is not running, I know this because I have wired it direct to the battery trying to get the damn thing to work! (however in doing this I could not stop the engine! I have had my ecu out and on the work bench and had no problems with the keyfob (single button type). I disconnected the battery to do this, and had no problems (apart from loosing my preset radio stations!)

Have been really busy and unable to work on this or reply, your help is much appreciated. I have wired up the stop solenoid as per the non-edc, non-egr wiring diagram and I can start it up and have been driving it around. I have a nice 'bypass the ecu' switch under the dash now. This is direct from connector 216 to the egr, but have left in the old circuit. This is a 12v live based on the key. However I still get the 'check engine' light on and I think the car has gone into limp home mode as it seems to have less power than before. (Ie will just about do 50 up a slight incline!). How limpy should limp home mode be? I have been keeping an eye on the 'starting problems thread' and I think we have the same problem! Tomorrow I will try and remove the old stop solenoid circuit to try to stop the ECU from detecting probelms and going into check engine mode. Im reluctant to pull apart the ECU connector to connect pin3 and 17, I think my fix is pretty much the same thing. When I have my new circuit broken (ie as with no modification) the check engine light goes off as normal after 5 seconds when the key is turned. Would the ECU be detecting the shortcut and going into limp mode? Has anyone anyone got any ideas on how I can get my ECU tested? Can I get the diagnostic software from anywhere and plug the car into my PC? Do those diagnostic machines from Halfords work? Otherwise I may take Guy H up on your offer....

Hi all, Thanks for the help! Im sure I have a EDC (the MAF is on the air intake) and I found a ECU! I have had the ECU out today: PIN 3 is definately connected to the stop solenoid as per the RAVE wiring diagram. This has left me stuck. I was going to pop it open and look for dry solders, but I wanted to get some advice on if that is a good idea or not. From looking at it it was not designed to be opened up! Does anyone have any suggestions for how to diagnose that the EDC is faulty? Is there anyone around Egham that wants to swap ECU for an hour or so :-) Failing that can anyone recommend a company that can diagnose for me, or supply a replacement. I guess a new one from LR will be megabucks! BTW I have black box under the passenger kick plate where the alarm spider should be. Ta for the help..... Stephen

Ta fo the help! I have had the front of the dash out today looking for the alarm spider and it wasnt there! I have never had an alarm go off in the car so Im guessing that there isnt one, nor do I have a flashy LED. The immoboliser is 3rd party (added when the thing was reimported back from Japan) I have had a look in RAVE for the circuit diagram and I can find three versions. Im a bit clueless as to which is relevent. I have 300tdi with EGR, 300tdi with EDC and 300tdi 'export' Whats the best way to figure out which I have (I do have an EGR) The 'export' one tells me to go for the spider behind the console (which I cant find) or anything that looked like connector C2095, neither of which I could find. Could this spider be hiding anywhere else? That leaves me with EGR or EDC? Is there anyway to remove the EGR control module completely? Thanks Stephen

Im having a problem with my Japanese import Disco. The voltage at the fuel cutoff solenoid isnt enough to open it up so I cant start the thing. If do a direct conection from the battery to the solenoid I can start up and it goes fine. Im unsure as to what is between the ignition and the solenoid. The first thing is my UK 3rd party immobiliser, but the voltage is fine on both sides of it. So Iam stuck! Im told on a UK spec Disco there would be nothing between the ignition and the solenoid, however Japanese ones have more gubbins in there for reducing the fuel when the brake is pressed. Is this correct? This may include the alarm. Does anyone know where this lives and if I can get hold of a wiring diagram so I can trace through to sort out my problem. Any other experience or help would be appreciated also. Ta Stephen

Push the blipper up against your head and press the button to extend the range..... ....trust me it works.

The G-Wizz is not a car its a 'Quadricycle' which means it does not need to be crash tested in the same way as a car. The result being that it is really a death trap.

Is that right? Mine has always been at just less than half way.... The only time it went over was just before steam came out from under the bonnet!

When using a financial advisor you need to remember who is paying the bill. You have two options: 1 - Being charged for the advice (per hour!) 2 - The advice is 'free' and the bod takes a kick back from any products they sell to you. If you are being charged for the advice then make sure you ask what happens to the commissions for any products they end up selling to you. Good firms will tell you that they dont take the commission to give you a discount. If the advise is 'free', check their marital status, if they are divorced and having trouble with the payments then it may sway what they sell to you (ie bigger commision!). This type of advisor have an incentive to sell you the most expensive policies. Remember Im not qualified in anything...

My auto disco has the diff lock on the low-high range box like the manual...

Just driven past a prang on the M25J17 between a D1 and a D3. It looked like the D3 had gone into the back of the D1 (it might have been a D2, I was zooming past on the other side trying to not add to the rubbernecker jam by hitting the breaks as I look right!) The D1 had a slightly twisted rear bumper but it didnt look too bad, it might buff out . However the D3 was mashed, it looked like it had gone under the rear of the D1 and the full force had been taken on the radiator. The bumper looked intact, however the engine was now a good foot or so shorter and the bonnet was A shaped! Looked like the two chaps were swapping amusing LR anecdotes by the side of the road. I think the D1 won!

http://www.ultimatestupidity.com/pics/1/diesel/ A bit OT....

It shouldnt be a problem, I have a wireless router on the ground floor and I get a signal fine upstairs, even at the back of the house, which means the siganal goes through three solid 100 year old brick walls. I find the main issue with signal is interference from other networks, dect phones etc etc. There are 12 wifi channels with bands of three overlapping, so channels 12+3 overlap, 23+4 overlap, 34+5 overlap etc etc. You need to fiddle about to find the band with the best penetration in your house. Obvously some types of brick and flowery wallpaper absorb different frequencies to plater board etc. In other words, epxeriment with different channels. Hope this helps.... Stephen

Hi, I have a 1995 'M' 300tdi Auto Discovery that was repatriated from Japan a couple of years ago. Its been running fine up untill last weekend. Last Sunday the brake pedal switch broke and I was unable to get the thing out of park. (and the brake lights were not working!) Japanese discos seem to have loads of extras that stop the key being removed unless in park and stop it being taken out of park unless the key is in and the brake pedal is pressed... Once the pedal switch was sorted I had throttle problems which were beyond me and had to go to the garage. The garage have had some problems doing diagnosis, for instance the Rovacom connector, they tell me, is not the same as the one fitted to Japanese Discoverys. I think the garage bodged it in the end. Anyway they diagnosed the problem as the throttle potentiometer and fitted another one (sharp intake of breath - LR quote £600 Bosch one for £200). But they still reported some problems. The garage say that they were unable to rev the engine when the brake pedal was pressed. However when I picked it up it seemed to be OK, no problems revving whilst the brake is pressed in any gear....??? Does the revving problem sound familier to anyone? Does anyone know what the top switch on the brake pedal is for? The lower one is for the brake lights and in this case auto box. I believe that the top one is for the cruise control, but my disco does not have cruise control! The garage have speculated that it could be for emission control or some other strange additional Japanese system. Anyway its been removed, pending a new replacement from Land Rover coming, and the thing seems to run OK. Finally, my ABS light now flashes when the engine starts. The garage say that this is because all faults have been cleared but it is strange that it happens on such an old Disco (mines a 1995 M one). Could it be that my ECU has been upgraded by connecting it to the diagnostic machine? Would the Japanese disco have had a different version of the software? Any thoughts would be appreciated Ta Stephen

I had the same problem for a rear facing seat. I ended up with a bod from a company called Auto Safe coming around and changing the belt to a longer one and making the buckle that connects to the floor shorter so we didnt have 'buckle crunch' Wasnt particually cheap to do, cost about £100. But the good thing was they came to me to my workplace to do it.

Greenpeace should shut up and get smart. Flogging the motorist and demonizing 4x4s will only get peoples backs up. They should change strategy and lobby the government for tax incentives to encourage bio-diesel and SVO. That way we have: 1 - A crop farmers can grow to absorb C02 2 - A cheap alternative to Diesel on the forecourt that *everyone* can use. If biodiesel was at my local supermarket at 20p less per liter than regular diesel then Im sure the queue would be around the block. Another advantage would be less of those flimsy porous V8's about

Its pretty clear in this one

The Haynes manual says that the tank capacity is 89lt, but the most I have put in is about 80lt of Diesel when the red light has been on and I had to drive 10 miles or so to get to a filling station. If the capacities are right then I sill had 10lt (~2 gallon, so whats that about 50 miles) left. Although Im sure that it would be near on impossible to brim it with 89lt of diesel. The light doesnt come on untill the needle is really towards the end of the red. Maybe Imm weird or something, but I start to panic when the light comes on... Nowadays I fill at the edge of the red giving about 75lt of fill.