TheRecklessEngineer

Have a look here: http://www.inhislandy.co.uk/veggy_pages.htm And here:http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/index.php The first one has bit on land rovers and veggy, the second is a very useful forum with masses of info. In short: All land rover engines need a twin tank conversion to run veggy successfully, bar the Td5, which may be possible, but no one seems to have tried it yet. A mix is all very well, but in a direct injection engine can result in piston ring gumming and the sump oil can turn to jelly. Have a read of the posts on direct injection engines in the forum above. I wouldnt go much about 20% veggy in a TDi...

I wouldnt touch a bio-power seminar. Bio-power fuel is waste veggy oil with a solvent thrown in. This can cause serious long term problems to any Direct Injection engine (piston ring gumming, polymerisation of sump oil), and any engine with a lucas injection pump (2.25, 2.5 and 2.5TD) will fail catastrophically with the seizure of the rotor head within the pump due to reduced lubrication (the fuel is thicker than diesel, therefore cant lubricate correctely) John Nicholson (head of bio-power) is a very assertive chap and whilst in a lot of ways he means well, he can/is doing as much harm as he is good. In his favour, he has managed to help beat HMCE into taking veggy oil at the reduced tax rate. Have a look here: http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/...d=1782#pid12141 The forum itself is a very valuble source of info for running a car on veggy and biodiesel. There is even a post in the archive section relating specifically to land rovers...

Not massivly helpful, cos he can always turn it on again, but you could try and persuade him to type in 'shutdown -s' into the run dialog box (click start, click run). A most amusing result!

Hahahaha. That made me chuckle...

Seems this footage has leaked out: http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=...996179798417145

They contacted me too...about running 4x4s on vegetable oil.

Yup, tis the brake pads sliding around in the calipers. Greased up the backs, but still sticking to the discs. Anything else I can do? Or shall I just replace them?

No, the beer has gone. Had some studenty types in the back and they drank it all. Got more in the cupboard ready to go in though Ill give the brake pads a bit of greace and see what happens

Ok chaps....this noise is driving me nuts now..... It's a click noise and only occurs when I pull away reasonably quickly after stopping reasonably quickly. The disco will drive for about a meter, maybe a little more and then it goes click, so its not instantanous the moment drive is taken up. Quite a metalic noise and quite loud. It's not a wheel bearing, or UJ, and I cant replicate it by wobbling anything when stationary. Brownie points for the correct answer Oh yeah, '96 disco, TDi, blue....yes the engine does drown it out if I pull away at 4k rpm

Ill second that....antifreeze is rubbish at getting rid of heat. The closer you get to pure water the better...there is very little that is better than water for absorbing heat.

Been playing with a marinised chevvy 350 for most of the summer (damned thing kept breaking). Had a really smart injection thing on the top...made by PCM I think. Felt it could have been made a bit better tho - rated at 330 horses, with a 3" throttle body and miniscule air filter....bet it would make 360 if that was sorted out.

Wow...thats quite a trip! Brilliant piccies. Hope you had fun.

Hmmm...my transfer box is making some interesting noises - I get a nice clunk shortly after taking up drive - I think it is play in the front output shaft. Its not leaking oil yet, so should last a good few k miles!

Funny you should say that - my shoe is just the right size to wedge under the pedal for 75mph. Problems happen at hills though....

Really? Is this a landy thing? I drive a volvo with cruise control and its magic.... Good tip for the clutch pedal - that might take some fiddling...im looking forward to it already

Anyone got any thoughts on putting cruise control from this:Disco into a 300TDi manual disco? Im expecting gear changes to be a little interesting, but it would be quite a nice gimmick for motorway cruising....

Been fiddling today. The brakes lock at the front (albeit with a lot of effort) so I havnt got the brake lines the wrong way round. However...I think the servo must be knackered...You can feel the pedal moves down when you start the engine, but it moves back up again when the engine stops... Anyone got a 110 pedal and servo hangin around?

As long as its well washed biodiesel you should be fine. Keep an eye on the injector leak off lines - they will be the only ones you will have trouble with - but should last a good year before they need replacing.

Holy **** I truely hope they get the council to pay damages...

Interesting....maybe there is something up with my servo then....or I might have got the pipes the wrong way around and its braking with the rear wheels first...? Ill try that first, failing that...a 90 or 110 master cylinder.... Ill let you know how I get on.

The brakes on my hybrid are s**t... I am driving the rangie brake system from a standard series pedal and servo unit. The pedal doesnt move very far, the servo is working, yet it takes an enormous effort to stop the thing! Im guessing that the whole force*distance thing is playing a part in this...running twin calipers from a master cylinder and pedal designed for drums and a small servo unit. So....how can I improve them? Things ive thought of so far.... 1) Chop up spare rangie pedal box and replace pedal and servo with rangie bits...but its going to be a b*****d to fit around steering column and bonnet (why I fitted the series pedal in the first place) 2) Try and fit larger servo to series pedal 3) Fit rangie servo and master cylinder to series pedal 4) Dual servo units? 5) Introduce a small amount of air into system to allow compressabilty and allow pedal to move further, therefore more help from servo..????!!! 6) Leave as is and use 2 feet on brake pedal 7) Give up and drink beer. Any more? Any opinions on these?

Yes... sqrt(-1)

Very jealous....

Yeah, its a 300 TDi. Dried the lot out after rinsing with clean water and it works again! So not sure why exactly the immobaliser kicked in, but ill be getting a nice waterproof bag to put them in.

Went sailing today...and errmmm....well lets just say the coast guard turned up. Anyways...In anticipation of getting very very wet I took the clicky unlocky thing for my disco off my keyring and only took the keys out on the water. However...after their soaking the immobiliser kicked in and refused to let me start it. My crew was slightly impressed and rather worried that I managed to hotwire it in under 2 mins, but I dont really want to do that every time I want to go anywhere. So - how can I fix my keys? Whats the mechanism? Is it delicate electronics that wont like salt water? Can I simply dry the key off? Or is there another reason why the immobiliser would kick in (using the key to unlock the drivers door?)