TheRecklessEngineer

Absolute gits. I hope you find it. I had my bio-diesel processor nicked out of my driveway once. It was an old copper water heater with a load of extra valves and pipes soldered in. Guess they nicked it for the copper. I only hope that the toxic mix of methanol, caustic soda and glycerine in the bottom dissolved some sensitive part of their body.

I imagine it must be a bit Tyresome having two tyres let go. I would Tread very carefully with the remaining two. If they are only a year old it must not have been a Goodyear for them. Now...where did I put my coat?

Luke... Slightly OT, but where did you get those 12v water solenoid valves, and what sort of price were they?

Paul - yours is in the back...its under the drivers seat in a 90. (Assuming that's your 110 in the photo)

With a 200 TDi you should be getting >25mpg. If it is substantially less than this, then check for a fuel leak...have a look at the fuel lines, outside of the filter, and around the injection pump. Re the fuel gauge, get the sender out and have a look...its an easy job! (its the thing on top of the fuel tank with a wire coming out of it)

Could be the sender, or the gauge, or stuck in the tank. Take the sender out (under the drivers seat, and remove the panel) and move it by hand...see if it works. When you say 'drinks a lot of diesel'...how much exactly? What engine do you have? You should be getting >25mpg on a TDi, and maybe a little less on an earlier lump. Fuel additive won't make a a great deal of difference (if any) to fuel economy. It would however reduce smoke emissions...

What exactly does it do? From the style of the listing, I'm skeptical.

I would fit a push button switch to operate the starter. Its a cheap and simple solution and you shouldn't have any problems. In fact, my SIII diesel had a push button for the glow plugs and the key operated the starter. I think it was to do with the MOD changing SIII's to diesel rather than the original petrol.

Would have 'persuaded' it to fit, but the zort was stainless so couldn't bend it, weld it back together, and it was too nice to chop up anyway!

Try a sail maker... They should be able to deal with windows quite easily, and will have heavy duty enough machines to sew it.

May as well be done if someone is going in there, although the timing belt is quite a bit further in than the water pump. I do mine at 60k.

Trying to fit Fridges 3.9 system to his 3.5. Had to cut one of the studs off the exhaust manifold to get the old system off. Then had to take the manifold off to cut out the mangled stud. Fitted front section, back section wouldn't line up. Refitted front section again. Got back section lined up, all fitted, but blowing manifold gasket (fitted the wrong way round). All sorted, not blowing, middle cross member wouldn't fit. Thought it might fit if I fitted it first. Exhaust off again, cross member in, exhaust back on...wont fit. Maybe a 3.9 cross member? Exhaust off again, cross member out....looks like it should fit on after the exhaust, so exhaust back on, cross member in....cross member wont fit on chassis. Gave up, got a 3.5 system instead. :S

I'd agree with that. I still have nightmares about that exhaust.

Plethora? Flock? Colony? Dissimulation?

Ah yeah...I saw that too. Series 1 IIRC and very tidy

Ah yeah...I saw that too. Series 1 IIRC and very tidy

A quick search (yes, im bored) and I found this: Seems the 109 has been immortalised in a cartoon.

101 in Three kings 109 in The living daylights 109 in The day of the triffids (fave of mine) Hell...any film with the British army!

Never! Mine disposes of unwanted fossil fuel extremely efficiently....

bah! I get 12mpg here! Mind you...extremely hot cam, carbs and no silencer....lead right foot

If it fails, it will just die. 12v wont be applied to the device. 100ma at a 9.6v drop, will generate 0.96W. A relay case probably might just be able to cope with this (it would get uncomfortably hot - think about a 1W resistor), but I would fit it to something larger. If you have good thermal contact between the case and the body then it would be ok...try and fit the device on the same side as the body Make sure you fit a mica washer, and use a nylon nut and bolt, between the device and the heatsink or you will make the heatsink live!

Figured that...thats why I drilled into the cog a bit, and added more weld on the sides.

Thought I would take a few photos whilst I did this, cos apparently its a common failure on discoverys, and probably rangies too. There is a tell-tale clunk and then you can hear parts drop to the bottom of the door. The window will then drop open. A strip of electrical tape along the bottom of the window is adequate to hold it closed short-term. The fault is that the 3 spot welds that hold the half-moon cog (which binds with the motor) to the arm (that moves the window) eventually give up and fracture. The new part is £50-60 ish IIRC, so I thought I would have a go at fixing it. First off, is pulling the broken bits out. Pulling the inside of the door skin off is easy - pull of the speaker by taking out the 4x screws. 1 x screw behind the door catch, and 2 x 10mm bolts holding the handle on underneath. The skin will then pull away with strategically located screw drivers. Remember to lift it over the toggle wotsit for the lock. There is a waterproof membrane inside this...pull it off carefully. This will expose the guts of the door. You then need to take out the motor. The broken cog should be in the bottom of the door. There are 6 x 8mm bolts holding the motor to the door frame and 2 x 8mm bolts and 1 x screw holding it to the window. See the photo below. I found it easiest to get at the window bolts with the window more or less fully down. With a bit of fiddling you can then get the motor and arm out of the door. Remember the electrical connections. Red circles are the 8mm nuts to be undone. Dont forget the window bolts too! The nature of how the cog binds with the motor means that you cannot re-weld along the front and back, which would be the most secure and obvious place. So, I drilled 2 holes in the arm, and also slightly into the cog to help penetration. The photos below show the parts nicely cleaned up (before I put holes in the cog). The arm Its a bit tricky to line the cog and the arm up again, as there is very little in the way of guidance. I used guestimating the correct position, tacking it in place and then checking. It is easy to check if it is correct by reconnecting the electrics to the car and winding the window up and down a few times. It should be a smooth motion. Remember to keep your fingers out of the mechanism! Tacked on ready for testing When you are satisfied, weld the hell out of it! I also added some weld on the sides after the photos below (please...no comments on my welding!) Add a little grease when its cold again. Welded up and cleaned up Assembly is a little more fiddly. I found it helped to reconnect the electrics, and wind the motor all the way down. This allows it to fit back through the hole more easily. Refit is the reverse of above! If all goes well...this should take about an hour, and is much cheaper than the new part! Hope this helps someone!

Greece! Spent the summer there. Awesome place - although I cant comment on any taxes as I was working for a British company.

On my 90, it ran down the inside of the door seal, and then a little puddle formed on top of the plastic cover that covers the linkage to limit the door opening. When going round a right hand bend, it dripped onto my foot.