TheRecklessEngineer

My guess would be the lift pump...or a big hole somewhere upstream of it.

Could be a lot of things. First check would be to crack off an injector union (metal pipe coming out of the injection pump), spin the engine over with your foot on the floor and check for fuel. That should verify that there is no fuel going to engine, therefore no starting! Next, pull out the stop solenoid (single electrical connection, back of the injection pump), remove the plunger and refit. Check again for fuel. If still none...there is another problem...could be fuel supply, or injection pump. Check the injection pump is getting fuel....undo the return to tank line (the fuel line that doesnt go to the fuel filter) and prime the system by wiggling the lever on the bottom of the fuel lift pump (left hand side, down the back near the drivers feet, attached to the block). If no fuel is coming out of the injection pump return, then you have a problem with the fuel supply. (If there is, your injection pump is bu**ered). Check filter/lift pump. Might even be worth rigging up a jury rigged fuel tank (jam jar, couple of bits of hose) in the engine bay to make sure the ip is getting fuel and try again. I very much doubt it is the injection pump. Stop solenoid or fuel supply most likely. In my experience, lift pumps give up at about 150k miles.

Slacken off all the injector unions, and turn it over until you see fuel coming out (remember the rag to mop up spills). Tighten it all back up again, put your foot to the floor and spin it over. If you have a fat battery, you can get away with putting your foot on the floor (signals the injection pump to put in the most fuel and hence bleeds it quicker) and spinning it over. You have a Bosch pump on that so it shouldnt be too difficult. The Lucas pumps (2.5 TD, 2.5) are very sensitive to air.

Diesel theory and practice: http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/...ead.php?tid=123 A fantastic post if you can be bothered to read it all. Explains all about the subtleties of diesels and how and why they differ so much from petrol.

Forgot that. Sooooooooo useful! Designed my entire uni 3rd year project in ProD, clicked a few buttons and out popped all the 2d plans for every part. Didn't work though.

I've always wanted one of these: 38,000cc v12 diesel :D Certainly sort getting through the traffic in london. Wonder if it would be exempt from the congestion charge.... There was one on ebay a while back. £15k I think it was....

Yes, well at least it always had a good disc on the end The only cheap kits I've found are generally just a hand throttle. The ones with a controller are about £300+ and even then they don't look particularly good.

I'm sorry fridge, but hows your truck coming along? :)

I've been thinking of sticking cruise control in my 300 tdi disco for a while now. I've just come across most of the kit for cruise control on a '93 rangie... I like a good challenge, so I'm up for trying to make this fit, but what sends the ECU a speed signal? Is it taken from the ABS, or something on the speedo cable? Should there be some sort of valve system to send variable amounts of vacuum to the diaphragm actuator thingy??? Anyone got any wiring diagrams/technical details for this system?

Pro Desktop every time. I dont like the 3d bit in autocad. Always found it a bit clumsy somehow. I think you can download pro desktop express, free from the developers (PTC?) Have a hunt on the net...i'm sure its out there somewhere.

I took my disco to London at the weekend. It was absolute hell. Still...masses cheaper than the train!

I'm out of my depth with that one.

I think there is another message here: Try and use a rope with a failure strength below that of any shackles/recovery points used to secure it to a vehicle. This way if anything snaps, it will be the rope and you wont be left with flying bits of metal. Thoughts?

Depends what kind of injection pump is fitted, and whether it is turbo'd. Can you find out?

Hmmmm....reminds me of the Southampton guild of knot-tiers. They all had beards and wore socks with sandals. Need I say more. [Running for cover, cos surely someone on here has beard/socks/sandals]

If you have got line of sight with someone/something closer to the exchange with access to broadband you might be able to set up a wireless connection to them. You would need to find a communication specialist though....

Assuming there is enough play in the ip sprocket to allow the timing to be corrected if it is out by one tooth: Whip the timing cover off, turn the engine over (by hand) until the hole in the ip sproket lines up with the hole behind it. Ram in a 9.5mm drill bit ideally, 9mm if all else fails. It will go really far in when it is located correctly. Loosen the 3x10mm bolts on the ip sprocket. Turn the engine to TDC - indicated by a mark on the cam shaft sprocket lining up with a bit of webbing in the timing case, and the woodruff key on the crank lines up with something too. Tighten the 3x10mm bolts on the ip sprocket. Wiggle the engine forward and back a bit to release the drill bit. Temporarily refit timing cover and try it! If there is not enough movement in the ip sprocket to allow for the correct adjustment, you will have to take the belt off and nudge it on a notch. Make sure you lock the ip with the drill bit first.

Ill second that. Your timing is way retarded.

Yup, and it had an 'italian tune up' on the way there. Maybe an 88 degree stat would be the way to go.

Just put my disco through an MOT. During the smoke test, the tester had to rev the nuts off the engine to get the oil temp to over 80 degrees. At idle it sat at 61 degrees. Is something wrong here? I would have thought it would have sat much higher than that. Jammed thermostat?

Fat pile of 20s it is then!

Well there I was pulling into a driveway, went backwards a bit a stuck a dent in a peug 206. Nothing serious, a new panel at 68 quid from the dealer will sort it... Handed over my insurance details, but quite keen to settle this with cash as I don't want to loose my NCB over something so trivial. So - if the owner goes through my insurance company, would I get the option to pay out of my pocket without loosing the NCB, or should I go round with a fat pile of 20s?

So....what do you need to become a citizen of Australia?

Only just read that bit. Preheating on a TDi wont make the blindest bit of difference. The oil will be injected at the temperature of the injector - heating it up prior to the pump wont make any difference at all due to the massive heat losses of the fip and injector lines.

When the engine is cold there is incomplete combustion of the veggy oil. It then condenses on the cylinder walls, works its way under the piston rings (where it turns to goo and causes them to stick, so you loose compression) and then gets into the sump. Veggy oil and mineral engine oil under heat and agitation polymerise resulting in jelly. Its really not good for the engine! For this reason it is always best to run a twin tank system where you start on diesel, and then change over when the engine is hot and the veggy can be fully combusted in the cylinder. Adding solvents can help with cold starting (petrol is particularly good) but doesnt help the ring gumming or polymerisation as the solvent and veggy seperate after injection, resulting in the same problem. Andy...if you want your revs back, try advancing the timing a couple of degrees.