TheRecklessEngineer

How about the rear tub...might be a little bent, but then what isn't on a landy?!

Depends if its the low pressure or high pressure side. If the low pressure side has simply fallen off, then jubilee clips are fine. The high pressure side is *really* high pressure. I know a chap who cut his and had 3x jubilee clips on each side, and a bit of wire on to stop the ends seperating and it still p****d everywhere. So, no...jubilee clips are a no go...

Here you go: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DPDT

Intresting... Im not actually looking at doing this...but just wondered what you guys would think.

Thinking about this yesterday... What is to stop you finding a 2x 16v 4 cyl heads and bolting it to a v8 block? Ok...its not going to be easy...you would need to find heads of a suitable size, drilling head bolts and sorting the cam shaft(s) would be interesting...but in principle, could it be done? 1.8 16v ford heads spring to mind...or maybe something with DOHC.....

If its over 120k miles...its the lift pump. They all seem to give up around then. The injection pump has quite a large (0.4l??) gallery which will keep it running when there is no fuel. On old landy engines with lucas injection pumps, the fuel is used as hydraulic fluid to transfer forces within the pump...so if you run out of fuel in these, you are buggered. The Bosch fitted to the TDi is near bullet proof...and hence will self bleed. The injection pump iteslf will has a mega powerful suck (??!!). Anyone who has got a blocked fuel filter will know that it will suck air through the joints. I do not have a lift pump on my secondary tank fitted in the back of my Disco...the injection pump pulls the fuel through fine.

More or less... I leave it to settle for about a week...all the water, and any fats solid at room temperature drop to the bottom. I then pour the good oil out of the top, through a few filters and into the car. Takes about 1/2 hour to fill the tank. You can test the oil for water by sticking a sample in a pan and heating. Any pops/spitting means there is water still present. Thats what bio-power would have you believe

Being a TDi, it will run on the stuff neat...BUT you need to start it and get it hot on diesel first. Other landy engines need to be fed hot veggy to save the injection pump. In a TDi turps doesnt thin the oil sufficiently in the injectors when cold (it actually seperates into large droplets of veggy and small droplets of turps...try a spray pattern test with veggy and turps!) The veggy doesn't burn sufficiently in the cylinder, will then condense on the cylinder wall, work its way under the piston rings (causing them to stick) and then finally will start to polymerise the sump oil, and will then start to furr up the oilways resulting in reduced oil flow around the engine (and the inevitable failures). More of a problem for vehicles that are only used for short journeys. Using turps+veggy in a pre-TDi landy engine quite simply doesn't lubricate the injection pump sufficiently. The rotor head will then seize up which will then shear the input shaft. However, being IDI it wont suffer from the problems above...if it lasts that long.

Please please for the sake of your engine DO NOT FOLLOW BIOPOWER! You will break something. Proper biodiesel: http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make.html And here: http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/ Useful forum: http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/index.php There is a lot of very informative info out there on the web on how to use various renewable fuels in a car engine. There is an equal amount of c*ap advice and 'snake oil' solutions out there that will see the destruction of your engine and earn biodiesel a bad name. Ok, I'm off my soap box...rant over. As for methanol, I'm in Southampton, so can't be too far away. Where abouts are you? I make very little bio these days as I am running waste veggy neat instead. How much methanol do you want? 15 litres should make about 70 litres of fuel. Edit....P.S. Methanol is not Meths. Meths contains some methanol, but is 85% ethanol.

someone has been trawling the biodiesel websites! Yes, I use a marine outboard tank. used to have it strapped under the floor in my 90, it now sits in the back in the disco. Not the most ideal solution... see if you can get a Td5 tank as it would be much neater!

It it's only a few liters, I can probably sell you some. How much do you want?

I have trouble getting a signal at home...but then the walls are stone and about 3' thick! I'm currently trying to work out the best solution for this. There seem to be quite a few available. Linksys have a new router with 3 antennas which aids signal strength. You can also buy specialised antennas...both directional and omni-directional. However, in the spirit of Land Rover...you can make decent antennas from rubbish: http://www.oreillynet.com/cs/weblog/view/wlg/448 Pringles anyone?

Replace clutch fluid with engine oil...It's thick enough to stop leaks Actually...only good in an emergency...the engine oil seemed to rot the seals. Got me home though.

Fridge Freezer does web design too I believe. I'm sure he will be along in a min.

I use this: Trillian One program for MSN, AOL, Yahoo, ICQ, etc... Not susceptible to any normal viruses and sits in the corner quietly unlike MSN which seems to be in your face every 20 seconds.

Not if you don't put a silencer on the engine

Duramax 6.6l diesel Anyone know anything about these engines? Common rail type injection? Could you squeeze one into a disco? How computery are they? As bad as a Td5? Maybe in about 5 years when I have a job and when they might be cheaper.... But $510 is only £250......hmmmmmm

Yup, i didn't use compressors on mine either. Front is a bit of a pain, but possible. The back slips straight in.

I had this trouble on mine last week. I won eventually by using a 4' extension bar fitted in such a way as to be parallel to the chassis, and then a bit of scaffold pole placed on top at 90 degrees to this and wedged under the chassis. Total extension must have been about 7'. Bit of a heave and it cracked off.

Unplug the horn, and check to see if there is a continuity (or low resistance) between the wire and ground. If there is, there is a problem with the wire. More likely its the horn. New one from a breakers will only be a couple of quid.

Wots wrong with that? Its the only thing holding bubbles (aka The Blue Thing) together and I LOVE IT!!!!!

Its alright...next time I see him in the rangie, ill connect the horn to the brake light switch, but via a relay so it only works when the lights are on. Actually, i've done it to FF's truck before...and I think my wiring is still in there somewhere

Hella make the entire cruise control system for Rangies and Disco 1's. Also exactly the same system fitted to Jaguars, Saabs, and Volvos! My quest for cruise in the disco for under £20 is nearing an end...and no, I haven't found a brick! I think they also make various light parts too.... And relays?

Thought as much Thanks guys! P.S. If anyone hasn't tried a lift+polybushes, then do it. The difference to the ride is incredible!

Ive fitted a 2" lift kit from Brooklyn 4x4 to my Disco...but it looks a bit wrong The springs I fitted at the front were the same uncompressed length as the originals, but much stiffer. The ones at the back were considerably longer. This has combined to give me a lift of 1.5" at the front and 3.5" at the back. Needless to say...it looks a bit odd, and the headlights finish about 3' in front of the vehicle So...Have I got my springs on the wrong way round, or is there something else wrong here? I don't really want the hassle of swapping them only to find i've got the wrong parts...