mad_pete

I'll check what colour the plug was and injector contact. The spark from the lead looked pretty meaty on a HT lead to engine block test. Is there a way to test injectors ?

compression is fine on all cylinders ( sorry forgot to mention that ) Range 110 - 130 and I don't think 2 and 4 are the lowest. I only doubled checked lead positions 2 and 4 are correctly plugged into coil pack 2 left hand side.

Well I was hoping to fix the misfire first and move onto the water escaping. The car had new plugs fitted today and still didn't fire on those cylinders. I understand that misfire causes the fuel to wet the plugs but that's effect rather cause isn't it ?

Right I have 4.2 V8 Megasquirt doing EDIS spark and fuel New plugs A big spark from 2 and 4 leads But the exhaust manifold from 2 and 4 is cold. The back reads 170 the other side reads 180 but the branch from cylinders 2 and 4 only reads 90 Also it is blowing water out the top of the expansion tank but I'm hoping that's the misfire making the rest of the cylinders run lean as there is too much oxygen in the exhaust. Any ideas where me missing bang has gone ?

Chris Perfect did a nice power steering bolt on for series landies. I tried it on mine and it was great but the pump mounted too low for heavy off roading so I had to take it off.

I lived with a 2a as a main car for a few years and it was fine ( you can get used to anything :-) ). As Fridge says get it checked. Plenty of solid ones out there and a bad one will just suck all your money.

Here is how I attached it. I need to beef it up a bit but you get the idea.

Well here it is in it's test install. Screen Picture is great but my camera doesn't like it.

When logging sometimes not all the cells get hit in the log and those aren't changed so you end up with weird maps that are a combination of tuned and untuned depending if you hit those cells and when I first tuned I had the standard range rover lambda sensors which totally don't work with megasquirt but the tuning software took a crack anyway. I also hit a problem of not loading the correct msq into megalog viewer which meant I was getting some old values on ignition and starting fuel levels when I reloaded the map to megasquirt, which meant I was much too lean on tick over.

I felt a bit cheeky posting here saying spend money when I realised haven't actually donated to the fine cause myself. I've donated now and I feel much better.

I agree with fridge. You get what you pay for and easier life and piece of mind go a long way. obviously this is sacrilege but depending on what it is yes I do pay a mechanic to fix my land rover.

Having just read the articles in question I don't think it's quite as bad as it's made out. I think the journalists slightly up themselves attitude colours opinion against them. The Range Rover as stated had slightly scored discs but new pads. Failing on structural rust that isn't structural rust is a bit annoying as mine was failed for the same thing. At the end of the day it's down to the tester. I took mine to a garage that had a better understanding of what bits of metal are and aren't holding mine together and it was fine. However he was bang to rights on the scored disc The headlight and play in the steering were known faults that might have been fails. MOT date looms time is short, personally I won't second guess the qualified MOT tester in terms of what constitutes too much play on a 50 year old steering rack and ditto for incorrect headlight pattern. You go down that road you end up replacing everything* As it was the tester deemed the steering play within limits The fact the MOT tester didn't know the exact date rubber pedals came in who cares ? It failed legitimately on several other things. And the fact it's now law to have grip on the brake pedal is probably because muddy boots slip off smooth pedals so maybe getting a rubber pedal is a good idea rather than my car must be as lethal as it legally can be based on the fact it was built when cars were allowed to be quite lethal. As an MOT tester if you think it's fail and you say it's a fail that's pretty professional really. So he isn't used to separate chassis cars, that's what the appeal process is for. It's not really a flag wave for MOT dodging danger cars. It's a couple of old land rovers failing on some minor stuff taken by owners who are a bit rude to muggles and don't know how to book an MOT a month in advance of the current ones expiry *not that you don't anyway

I think MS needs to see the the fuel pump circuit go live before it will play. I think if you bypass MS and manually set the fuel pump on MS won;t play.

is the fuel pump relay working ?

Okay tweaked the top bucket down and took 2 off everything above 1200

Thanks, I'm just looking for a good basic point to run up some tuning. I had one that seemed okay but tickover was at 16 degrees, for some reason it had some 8 degrees trim on it and I think my sensor is set correct so I took that off and then it seemed less happy and I tried 12 and it was less happy and then I was messing around with everything so I thought it would be a good time to check I'm not on a road to a broken engine. This is a 3.9 auto map. Is this safe enough ?

Can someone point me at a standard auto 4.2 v8 spark map please ? I'm sure there are millions I just can't quite seem to find one that doesn't confuse me utterly.

Double DIN display This is what I'm currently looking at. Or maybe I could get an 8" and just mount it directly over the mud dash but that wouldn't look as neat.

Okay maybe I'm getting carried away but I've bought a mud dash and I can't help thinking the big hole in the middle could really do with a 7 " touch screen much like you find in jaguars and then I'm toying with the idea of mounting the laptop in the top of the passenger footwell. Then run megatunix ( gauges look prettier ) all the time. I have a gobook 250 so it should be pretty tough and I already have a 12v power supply for it. Any comments on a) why this is a great idea B) why this is a terrible idea c) 7" touch screens ( good, bad , ugly ? ) The stereo fold out screens look like they would fall apart so I was thinking proper mount like the ones in the back of headrests.

It's a non serpentine engine. Well actually I think it was but Jules put the other type front on. So I think that makes it not. Distance to rad from fan is 23mm Might investigate the 50th cowl anyway

My 90 was a na diesel that was changed to a 3.5 carb v8 before I got it. I've put a 4.2 v8 in. With the 3.5 the gauge would read hot correctly. Now the gauge seems to go to warm but stay there. I thought that was fine but now I have megasquirt it is reporting the temperature spiking 100 degrees plus and I am losing water. So do I need to change my gauge or sender to go with the 4.2 ?

My domed washers are the wrong way round. Thanks Bish

Yes actually Americans are going to put the button on the wrong side aren't they. I'm thinking something like http://mustangparts.essexracingclassics.co...roducts_id=7159 T shaped shifter in chrome ( autobox was a pain to fit I want to feel good about changing gear ) Is the range rover one as simple as 2 tubes with the inner one that does the lift to allow gear selection ?

I've got an auto in my 90. I have the old classic ranger rover shifter. Is it possible to fit something more exciting ? I know the softdash shifter would fit but is there anything else that could go in ? Is it a simply job to nick a T shaped shifter off something American and bolt it on? - Sorry about the typo in the description. I can't see how to correct it -

I've got a 4.2 V8 in my 90. It mounts in the correct position for a v8 with viscous fan. I have NA diesel rad in there ( if that matters ) as I need the oil cooler. Engine's running hot and a cowl should help with the viscous fan. Are cowls one size fits all or do I need to be a little bit cleverer than that ?