mad_pete

For the air bags my mate took them apart and removed the bang part. There is a bolt I think just be careful.

The slide on the seat gives me about all I'm going to get and I think thats enough. Rear bolts to go.

So my current problem is my in car computer box stops me being able to move the seat back enough to put the front bolts in (the joys of a truck cab). I’ll look at moving that and see if it helps. I could weld some extending tabs on but I’ll try to avoid that if I can.

By two lots of rails I mean I could add the existing seat rails to the ones already on the seat. Some sort of telescoping section would be okay.

I couldn’t get that one to latch when it was off the car pushing it in by hand into the door. The x eng one is fine to do that with so I am going to go with my mangled catch is a problem. It is mangled on both sides. I think had alignment and seal issues as well. Pretty much all the problems 🙂

Right chuck on rails in. This is what in thinking if the rails could super extend. I could mount two lots of rails but I don't like that

Okay X trousers fitted. Messed with hinges. Pulled and refitted seals and it was good for a bit. Redo and super tighten hinges and it's good. I think seal was catching somewhere but door closes okay at the moment so hooray 🤠

Mangled yep

Okay, quick trial latching with just the x catch in my hand and pushing into the door latch and it will latch nicely on the drivers side so maybe my other latch got a bit mangled with the alignment being out but the loose hinges letting it slam / bounce into place.

Shiny

The door does seem to stick out a little bit. I don’t quite understand why I can’t trigger the catch by hand. Maybe it expects the weight of the door behind it. I’ll see how long the x eng ones take to turn up and see if they help.

Maybe with the advent of all various and wonderful gear changing processes we have now they decided to stay out of it. 🙂

I thought you have to swap the axle but that’s easy enough. That’s what I did.

Maybe mine is just shot them as even with the striker in my hand I have trouble making it latch to the second position. Feels like something is blocking it going all the way but I don’t see anything in there.

Well any excuse to get some x eng stuff. Is there any adjustment on the latch in the door ? Maybe I have multiple issues here. Imagine that a Land Rover job that spirals into loads more. 🙂

I’ll try that. Seems strange it will click easily with the driver though.

Driver door always needed a good few slams and the hinges were super worn so thought that was the hinges. Got new hinges and the door still doesn’t shut. Goes to latch one okay but not to full latch. If I remove the latch from the body and try and slide it onto the latch it still won’t go but it does on the passenger side. If I use a screwdriver in the latch it does latch to position 2. I don’t see anything blocking the door. Is there secret adjustment options?

Not wanting to diverge too much but I had to get the callipers out and look mine up. http://www.jacobschuck.com/MagentoShare/media/documents/jacobs-technical-information.pdf

It popped out. I did slightly side load it but I think the taper could do with some tlc. Im smoothing it out a little make sure I have no ridges. This is my keyless chuck https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/high-quality-precision-keyless-drill-chuck-1-13-mm-jt6-mount/ On mine the threaded collar is for removal of it just the taper holds it in.

So minor detour while I sort this out...

I’ve seen wings, battery box and wheel arch’s as locations but I can’t tell from the pictures where that might fit.

That’s the area I’m thinking. I’ve seen tip back done but in the truck cab there is only one way to go. I did try and get on with bolting in but the chuck slipped off my pillar drill and I think I need to smooth the taper a touch first.

It’s pto and tank is on the rear wheel arch currently. More pipe is more cooling 🙂 do people make specific ones to fit that gap ? Mines a 90.

I’m looking to downsize my monster 30 l hydraulic tank to something a bit smaller and lighter. I have seen some that fit next to the battery in the battery box. Could I measure it and get something roughly the right size ? Any other places out of the load bed a cheeky tank could go ?

The issue with the battery access for tings like I got the exhaust welded and they wanted to disconnect the battery or for events (although hard core winch challenge days may be behind me 🙂 ) Marshall’s want to see the battery is bolted in. I have an external charge point and a battery cut off I could put in but I like to be able to get at the battery box easily if possible.