Boothy
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Posts posted by Boothy
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Check out something called "cavitation" it's roughly where an over revved pump forms pockets of air that will lead to premature failure, roughly.......
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Hex tool ( six sided) and buzz gun,
It's one of my most hated jobs removing/re-fitting props, don't know why but I just hate them........
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Opps Dave, in hindsight would you have hit the brakes again, honest answer please ?????
Not as I would have done anything different I might add
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DaveW do you feel that these will offer good reliability after a period of time, especially as they could be working near their capacity for long periods of time, unlike Albrights that relatively speaking only work for short bursts and are not the best bit of kit, but are the the chosen favourite.
I work in an industry where we switch high current/voltages up to 25Kv and always massively overate for reliabilty and we usually find that a simple switch is the most robust relaible answer, but never the less I still like it.
Some rule this one....................
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In my case 100Amp alternator suppling a petrol V8, rear radiator with 3 fans and electric water pump, front fans for autobox/ hyrosteer coolers, Megasquirt (I know thats minimal), winch solonoids (they are on vehicle 12 volt side), headlamps and spot lamps when used on night stages, and your up towards if not over 100amps constant, and that's without the starter motor.
But the main reason is they are much more reliable and IF needed can be stripped and cleaned inside if they've been wet etc.
Chris
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I am planning to mount a bracket of some type mounted on the dash top and then have 2 or possibly 3 cables to it so that when it operated it will pull both of the metal keyed type switches off that I currently use, (no pun in the current bit sorry),
At the moment I use a three of the Durite metal keyed ones, one for the cars 12 volt electrics and a pair in parallel for the winches to share out the load, either of these will do the job on their own but I've used a pair for reliabilty.
I have a 8274 twin Bowmotor 2 front, 8274 single XP rear and single XP M8000 centre, so if we're doing something technical there are times when I operate more than one winch at once so the current draw could be quite high at times, so this one for all isolater causes some bit problems so I'm hoping the pull cables are workable,.
I've used them before by drilling the lever as far out as possible (for mechanical effort) and passing the cable through, but not tried more than one at once so here goes, will report back soon.
I got the cables from Rally stuff suppliers they use them for all sorts.
Chris
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You should have recieved my entry by now, and unlike the ladies as long as it's not No13 I couldn't care less what number I am,
it's the number at the end of the year Dan not the start that counts pal, then again it won't be the only number one you see, will it??????
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Why do the moderators allow moronic threads like this to continue that WILL eventually kill this forum, its becoming the old wife's green eyed forum and SVA we've no effin what we're talkin about but will cry about it forum....
Go count your rivets in private and mods please moderate and protect what your there to protect, before its vacant of anything but muppets crying about everthing they see.......
Rant over
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Happy New Year people and just an update for you.
I've replaced the onboard MAP sensor and thanks to Nige for the supply from his stocks, anyway when I removed the old one from the board there was a small amount of rust under it, which sort of left me with the feeling that I was barking up the right tree, anyway all refitted and "bingo" she's up and running perfect again.
So in summary, the MAP sensor can be affected by large and long amounts of water OR damp (just bear in mind my machine has had this ECU for longer than 3 years and has undergone some very wet and damp Challenges all over the UK in fact its very well seasoned) it's the one pictured on Nige's website driving across the lake up to the bonnet again.
So it's one for the record of possible reasons of bad running and a small clear lawn mower type fuel filter has been added in the vacuum pipe as a visual aid of any future problems.
Thanks for all your help and advice and I hope this thread may be of help to somebody else one day.
Chris
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They've got to have "Street Cred" for the lad........
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Thanks for all your replies boys..much appreciated..
Best wishes for the New Year to you all and hopefully see most of you in 2011.
Regards
Chris
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Just started on the winter preperation and I've got to start somewhere so it's gloves
Love the Devon 4x4 type but I am a bit loathed to pay £7.50ish for postage on 4 pairs of lightweight gloves, so what else is available ??
Am I being tight ??
Chris
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Could buy a donkey, odd bale of hay and it'll go anywhere....
Suit you sir
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My bombproof adjustable panard runs opposite way to normal i.e. attaches to the nearside body, because when you remove the steering box you have now lost your anchor point for the panard rod, so after a lot of thought and fabrication we manafactured one out of shaft steel (we being Carl Hurst) and the rear steering rod is also out of some shaft steel (ex aerospace) and is probably one of the strongest parts of the motor, leaving the track end end as the sacrificial point of the steering, on the theory that they are cheap and easy to change.
Got to be said is mine handles like a pig at speed, with 6psi, soft springs, hard shockers, unadjusted steering rod (best guess) but it's fine for challenges where there is a very low speed limit....i.e. 75MPH.. but we've never really had to concentate on getting it more refined....
Good luck and suprise us all....
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I used a R/H LHdrive front hub to give a point to locate a front ram to, i.e. one each side, you can drop on them quite easy, in fact when you get one you will then see loads of em' its called sod's law.
Now I don't know if you drove the stering of the back of the axle and put a steering rod across the front wether that would have any odd effects on steering angles etc can't see why, don't forget across the back it could possible make changing the front diff and absolute pig and also prevent the engine being moved back to farbecause of sump/pump clearances, if indeed you are using and engine at the front.
Chris
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It's Christmas Phil, let's please not get into any legality debates, they've been done to death on many many occasions...
Just answer the question ,please please please.......
Merry Christmas
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Your probably bang on there, the competition was a full 7 hours in a real full on frost that was damp and misty, proper hard winters night, the motor was not turned off from start to finish, and like I posted earlier ran perfect, but on thinking about things, the air intake is via a snorkel up the front rollcage with a paper cone filter (K&N) fully exposed to the elements, this has never caused me any problems in the last 4 or 5 years except when I roll on that side in water or gunge, so I carry a spare filter at all times. The ECU sits where the heater was in sealed box, on the bulkhead.
But obviously this cold damp air is what gets drawn into the plenum chamber and down via the inlet manifold which is precisely where the MAP vacuum sensor pipe attaches, so it must at some time take a breath of cold damp air.
My machine has a rear mounted electrically pumped cooling system so under bonnet tempretures are unusually low.
It seems strange sometimes after a session at full chat you open the bonnet and its all nice and cool even though the gauges show it's running bang on, the rear with the fans going is like being stood in front of a jet engine billowing heat out, so it's obviously working a treat, but it doesn't get a lot of heat in the inlet air tract which is normally a good thing.
So yes like you say it's probably got a bit of damp air the MAP sensor then froze or just give up because of the damp, so I won't risk any repeats for a tenner,
I will replace the sensor and refit and leave it as it is, with the thought that if I ever do a event in similar conditions in the future that I may have to swap over ECU's if it fails again.
It is the first time in three or fours years since I've had squirt on its happened so I don't think I need to do any major changes (yet) but will be aware.
Cheers
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Have you had a look a Saleys hydraulic twin speed air freespooled affair, proved time and time again in competition as bombproof, as fitted to the Mitsimog, he's on the forum under "Saley" as a very very good alternative....worth a look
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Not a problem Nige, RS in Stockport Manchester is about 1/4 mile from my office and we have an account there, so it's easy peasy really,
I was really impressed by the fact that within about 10 minutes of opening the bonnet I had managed to break it down to component level to diagnose the reason it wouldn't run right.
I don't believe there are many systems that it is possible to achieve that, I know a spare ECU is a monsterous help but that was really for self satisfaction i.e. just to prove the point..
not unlike the wife does......
Thanks again boys and Merry Christmas
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Melbourne, Donnington, near East Midlands airport,
look out for my co-driver I lost him there..................
it's not far from that doddgy causeway thing over the water, thats not very nice in the dark with a wide trailer on.....
a sort of 50p/5p moment if you know what I mean...............
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Many thanks for that pal..
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Well after completing the "Nightmare Challenge" in a minus 12* frost the other week and arriving home around midnight I decided to leave the motor on the trailer until Sunday, it had run like a dreamthe night before and never missed a beat, and hadn't got to wet, it was to cold for that.....
but blow me it would not keep running to save its life Sunday morning in the frost, anyway after a major challenge to get it off the trailer dead and into the garage, frozen on muddy brakes, frozen plasma ropes, full hydrosteer with cold fluid etc, all sorts of things not helping anyway today was the day to try again now its a bit warmer..........
One of my original thoughts was a frozen K&N that had got wet on the way home from spray on the motorway and then refused to let air through but that was proved against by removing the snorkel, so armed with laptop we tried again,,,hey ho there's no movement in the MAP reading......quick check of pipework confirmed that all should be OK so spare ECU was tried.......
Cough.....splurt.... and perfect, so it looks like a faulty MAP sensor.
Finally the question is...is it a mpx4250ap thats available from Farnel or RS or is it something similar???? an RS part number would be a godsend if somebody can supply one hint hint Mr Fridge.......
Thanks again lads:)
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I've just spoken to Simon and they will be updating the website this weekend, so it should reflect who's entered better.
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You'd better watch out then Saley, few more crashes in pit's eh !!!!!
No wonder you hit if with your eyesight, with it being that long it'll take some driving 'round.......
Winch Question
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
Speaking from expierence of a couple of years of Howlin Wolf's and numerous other events and having a modified 8274's, if there was a winching special stage i.e. tyre pulls or the likes and the PROPER hydraulic winches were competing i.e. Rob Tunnah or Saley then I would miss it and find an alternative as I knew we didn't stand a chance if it was down to pure speed, they are very very fast and will do it all day long, as long as the engine is running.
Cost wise probably cheaper with hydraulics after you've bought a donor 8274 then a twin top housing, moddified brake, freespool, pair of Bowmotors, strenghened mainshaft, pair of Allbrights, dual or pair of large alternators, bloody big battery scource, and then your left with something that WILL need a lot of maintenance, hydraulics once fitted are pretty much fit and forget apart from the odd filter (if fitted).
I use 8274's but if I was starting from scratch I would have a very serious look at a hydraulic COMPETITION set up.
Also when you look at the Glwynn Lewis video Nick Bird went through before him faster with a hydraulic winch and shoved most of the crud out of the way, if I find the link I'll post it here.
Food for thought