miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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The check strap and striker plate are different but can be swapped.
Mike
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Discovery 200tdi.
Mike
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F120848747995
Is the one I bought.
I'd buy it again only because it's Ali and cheaper than brass tanked. When I was looking you could get brass tank ones for less than your quoted recore but you do need to look carefully.
Mike
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Just looked at the parts book I've never seen that on the turbo side. However I have seen it under the back outboard bolts on the pump side. As retro says sometimes there is a lifting eye there, sometimes the spacer you mentioned and some have nothing at all. I'm pretty sure the three 200tdi's I have (all disco engines) have all three variations.
Mike
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I bought a budget all Ali rad off eBay. The quality is quite good but it's about 3mm taller than it should be therefore it's a bit snug in the frame. However the bigger problem was the bore of the oil cooler fittings I have had to drill them out from 5.5mm to 9.5mm because it was causing a low oil pressure issue.
I've also had several plastic end rads all have been less than great.
Overall brass tanks or top end Ali rad is the way to go. But I would buy another cheap Ali rad as I now know what to look for before I fit it.
Mike
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If you want defender esk there are two companies that spring to mind one is German, hideously expensive and looks similar to the second company.
For those that have no idea what I'm on about g wagon and ibex. I obviously have the later but I'm a luddite and built a truck with almost no electronics. The f8 can have all the toys you want with good engines sound deadening etc etc. The g will do the same you just need a mortgage to buy it.
The defender is dead accept it. It will not be replaced. JLR will build something to complete in a market place that consists of crew cabs, pick ups and utility wagons. It will be as good or better than the competition. It will not be a defender replacement.
I love the classic mini for similar reasons to I love the defender. The bmw mini is not a mini it's a damb good car but not a mini.
The best 4x4 land rover ever produced is actually a discovery 1 it saved the company from bankruptcy, went everywhere the 90/110 could, was warm and dry, quiet and comfortable.
The freelander is surprising capable it will cope with way more than you think. It's far better than a defender in the snow (mind so is d3, L322 onwards). Over here there rarely isn't another line to take. But the key thing is fridge is comparing it to a stock defender on road tyres. Yes ruts will defeat a freelander. But cross axle will defeat a defender. So on balance there is little in it but it's not a fair comparison anyway. A D3 on the other hand is a different matter.......
I'll stop rambling and go now.
Mike
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My only thought to any of this is.
I did a VIP day at gaydon years ago whilst there I saw several jags parked up with chuffing great holes in the bonnet. Poking up through these holes were air suspension towers that were never going to fit any kind of jag. The following year terrain response appeared.
My point is the body is more than likely a butchered something else, the exhaust is probably fake, the suspension is perhaps freelander because they're actually testing a seat and steering wheel. I won't believe any of it until it looks like a prototype vehicle we haven't seen most of before on other model. Even then it will probably be a fake.
I do want to see the replacement, I am looking forward to it, but I'll never own one so it doesn't matter to me if it's a rebodied freelander with bigger tyres.
Mike
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The hose you mentioned sounds like the breather from the rocker box to engine side of the filter housing. If so a small amount of oil from this hose is normal.
If it's lots of oil ie enough to put a puddle in the intercooler then you have a serious problem. Basically excessive pressure is forcing oil out of the breather. This could be anything from a blown head gasket to knackered rings and can lead to a run away.
If you remove the T box flange to replace the mud shield bear in mind the oil can escape while it's out so either have a pot handy or tilt the car back.
Mike
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I have Marlow ropes. In fact the one on 45 was on there when you last off roaded (it needs replacing now).
Mike
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I've got my winch switches fitted front, rear and dash.
Next on the list is a front recovery point. This presents a small problem. My ibex front crossmember is tubed for a tow bar but it's off to one side, covered by the valence and even if I cut a hole obscured by the number plate. So that rules out all normal ball and pin hitches. TSD has some swivel shackles that mount through the lifting tubes. Whilst this works very well it's not the most elegant solution, needs the valence removing or cutting out and I can't find them anywhere. My plan is a short length of 100mm x 65mm x 10mm angle cut to clear the number plate and purtrude out of the valence. This will have some webs welded across the angle with holes to match the tow bar bolt pattern and a hole for either a shackle or big enough for the winch hook.
Mike
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16 minutes ago, Arjan said:
Hmm.....
Another 5,000 miles with trailers await me later this year.....
I do a fair bit of towing but not that much.
Mike
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The trailer normally has a huntsman 28 (neither are mine) on it but we'll gloss over the legalities of that.
Mike
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Did you replace the pressure plate as well if not you need to. The 130 had a heavy duty clutch but for memory that was just a slightly bigger diameter friction plate the pressure was the same. You've checked everything I would the only other thing I can think of is the pedal returning properly. If the pedal is stiff it can keep some pressure on.
Mike
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24 minutes ago, uninformed said:
looks like the coil sprung rear arch is more semetrical or boxy so to speak.. Old swb didnt get the wheel very centred lol
Isn't that because the axle swings backwards when the suspension is flexed due to leaf springs.
Mike
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Earnt it's keep today.
Moved a friend's 25 foot ranger about 3.5ton all up. Made it work up some of the hills and the gearing is definitely a little tall. But she did admirably, the temp guage stayed put in the middle and the oil pressure light didn't even flicker.
Mike
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If I remember correctly the 109 and 88 capping fits a 110 but the 90 one is longer. The doors are all interchangeable and I'm sure I've seen a series galv corner on a 90 or a 110. However I'm also fairly sure the appiture for the wheel is in a different place on all of them.
Mike
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I have to admit I haven't seen a cracked or broken alloy for years I guess they got better at making them. Personally you can't beat big however the set on the ibex are at least 10 years old so they'll perish long before they wear of not sure if this is good or bad.
Mike
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Running as hard as I can.......
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Today I've established that the freespool engages and disengages a lot better if the gear carrier is in the right way round. Just got to put it back in now.
Mike
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I saw an article about then recently but i can't remember whether it said they were still making them or they had just ceased production. Either way they've done well.
Mike
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The pulley is mounted in the crossmember with an Ali cheek to keep the rope on the pulley. The Ali Hawse is bolted over the hole to close it down to rope size.
picture is looking backwards over the fuel tank. I can't remember where I got the pulleys from.
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6 hours ago, NRS91 said:
If you want to winch from the rear I guess you will just pick the rope off the rear pulley and hook a snatch block on?
Yes exactly that. I didn't like the idea of a snatch block in the rear 1, because it has no bearings the pulleys I have fitted do. 2, I was always going to be running plasma which tends to be loser when stowed thus allowing the snatch to rattle and 3, the standard set up only has rollers on each side of the hole in the rear crossmember which means any up or down angle and the plasma will run over a sharp edge.
Mike
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Unfortunately I can't make it this time.
Mike
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Yes, normally it has a snatch block in the rear crossmember held in with a removable pin.
Mine has a fixed pulley in the Crossmember, mainly due to my tank guard and removable tow bar.
Then round a pulley in the chassis leg and down a tube to the front.
Mike
Mine has a fixed pulley in the Crossmember, mainly due to my tank guard and removable tow bar.
ibex 300 build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
So this is what I've come up with.
Mike