miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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300tdi onwards I believe. But definitely td5. I will do this to the ibex at some point.
Mike
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It only looks like it failed because it doesn't reduce itself to the passenger compartment in a 5 mph crash like every other car I've seen crashed for the last 20 years.
Mike
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My narrow track was 6'6" inside length as I planned to fit a bed in one side. Personally I would either us a Sankey chassis or look at old commercial/farm trailers. I'm planning to build an overland caravan at some point and will probably use the 14' box trailer that I have full insulated or with either a refrigerated box body on instead. The commercial route will give you a galv chassis, off the shelf suspension and brake parts, a ball hitch with options for stabilizers and a huge choice of lengths, widths and axle layouts. Oh and most are rated at 2 ton plus so you don't have to build light weight if you don't want to.
Mike
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I wanted to but it a long way north and can't justify the expense at the moment unfortunately.
Mike
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Well I've had two good motorway runs today. No flickering oil pressure light. Sopping wet foot but the lights out. So now I need to investigate the leak that drips on the throttle pedal.
Mike
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The bonnet catch position is adjustable. Loosen it close the bonnet allow it to centre itself (you may need to help it) tighten and check.
Mike
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There has been a 109 coiler chassis on eBay several times and not sold it is listed as a early 110 but isn't.
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This is quite normal. Daan pulls the joint in each direction while greasing. I've heard grinding a small groove in the end of the spider can help. Personally I just grease them regularly and live with the fact that one will fail first.
Mike
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The thread is on the outside. The pipe has a swage on it with an o-ring between it and the spigot on the rad. The nut pulls up on the back side of the swage.
Swarf was felt with by having the radiator leaning back towards the drill taking it nice and slow so it cuts nice curly swarf that you can just pull out then clean anything else out when done. The core in there was close to where I was drilling (you can see a little damage in the second pic) so there was next to no room for swarf to drop inwards.
Mike
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Oil and filter change this morning. I've fitted a genuine filter though looking inside they certainly look similar. I also took the opportunity to re visit the oil cooler ports.
inlet and output were like this it measures 5.5mm the tube from the filter housing is 9.5mm id.
Some very carefully drilling later, that looks a bit better. Hopefully this will solve the problem of low oil pressure at tick over after a run.
Mike
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UK road tax is only different N1 versus M1 post 2002.
However a hardtop should be N1 road tax only station wagon is M1 road tax. So on this basis your truck should be N1 anyway but quite how you challenge it I don't know.
Mike
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I stand corrected but you see my point. I recall a lot of vans being done for speeding recently.
Mike
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Are we sure the switch is before the cooler as that would explain a lot.
On another note I've established that I can do 350 miles on a tank full. But that was full to run out. It took 65 ltr to refill but the seal on the sender/pick up is weeping. The guage seems to be relatively accurate the light came on solid at 300 miles.
Mike
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M1 is car (probably multi purpose vehicle) N1 is commercial.
N1 means you can only do 60mph on a motorway and I think 50 on a roads. It also means being clobbered on the congestion charge in London and soon other city's.
Why do you think N1 is beneficial as I put a lot of effort in to getting my ibex registered as a car (M1) because I could see no benefit going for N1 (which is an easier IVA).
Mike
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3 hours ago, Cynic-al said:
If it was a restrictive port somewhere around the engine wouldn't that cause higher pressure?
Agreed but as it's the only part that's different from when it was in the disco I don't know. I'm not sure if the cooler circuit is on the feed or return side but either way my thought is the restriction could be causing higher temps.
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1 hour ago, Arjan said:
Excuse my ignorance.....
English is not my native tongue...
Thanks
Not at all. Your English is better than mine.
As soon as I saw your reply I realised my mistake in assuming everyone called them Scooby's. They are nice seats though how they would fit I don't know. RX7 and smart are other seats that would be worth a look. I've got freelander seats in the ibex but they won't work with the seatbox.
Mike
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Subaru impreza is known as scooby over here.
Mike
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I had scooby seats in the tomcat comfy no idea about fittment obviously.
Picture of the frame in 45 below.
Mike
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42 minutes ago, Arjan said:
Thanks Mike.
I'll have a look at those as I must have one somewhere here...
They are a little higher than defender but I don't find it a problem especially if you have a smaller steering wheel. You need a frame to fit them if you want to puck up the defender bolt holes but this does allow them to slide over the lip at the back of the seatbox.
Mike
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Looks like oil and filter change just crept up the list then. Interesting it didn't do it in the disco though. I think I'll take another peak in the oil cooler part of the rad when I do the change.
Mike
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Currently waiting to run out of fuel so I know my tank range at 260miles and the gauge is just above empty with the light flickering on and off. But the tank is a foers item designed for a td5 pump assembly and I've got a 200tdi disco pick up in there.
On another note I'm getting a flickering oil pressure warning light at tickover after a motorway run. Never had this problem when it was in the disco. Now it does need an oil and filter (*#itpart filter) change and I think I read on here somewhere of someone having the same problem solved with a gen filter. My other thought is the radiator (cheap alloy job) when it turned up I remember thinking the oil ports looked a little constricted. I've just put a shield in to force the air through the rad as well just in case it's not cooling properly.
Other than that still loving it and getting a few thumbs up / confused looks.
Mike
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You may be able to use the rear wiper or heated window supply if one or the other isn't fitted. But this may require a relay fitting in place of the switch in the dash. If these are in use then it's a new cable I'm afraid.
Mike
ibex 300 build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Yes, normally it has a snatch block in the rear crossmember held in with a removable pin. Mine has a fixed pulley in the Crossmember, mainly due to my tank guard and removable tow bar. Then round a pulley in the chassis leg and down a tube to the front.
Mike