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miketomcat

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Posts posted by miketomcat

  1. I have some experience of removing moisture. We bag entire boats with industrial dehumidifiers inside. The current record at work is 270 litres out of a 33ft wooden power boat (there was no standing water, carpets or owners gear in it). We used to use house hold dehumidifiers but needed 6, they worked well but emptying them was a pain hence the switch to 2 industrial. You need both heat and air movement to be effective and the collected water needs to be removed regularly. Best you can do in a landy is get it dry (as above) then keep it dry with the crystal and trap type.

    Mike

    • Like 1
  2. There is a defender td5 ish inner wing style bottle that has the fitting for the headlight pump.20170411_193341.thumb.jpg.128e6d3deea8475c7d96212ab1c31702.jpg

    Defender bottle and modified discovery bumper jets above. I bought the bottle at sodbury because it hadn't been drilled for the standard pumps.

    Edit found a picture on the internet.

    s-l300.jpg.e58d5a7c5b73e096f3da6211c2ac7199.jpg

    Mike

    • Like 2
  3. Just before it got dark we managed to get some more membrane and two more roof sheets on.

    IMG_20211231_160901.thumb.jpg.ecd1dfca4d0deda2ac4e7a59f527ecf9.jpg

    I've punched a hole in the tarp to allow it to drain down the centre of the original roof, hopefully clear of the holes. Fingers crossed the shed will stay dry till I can do the rest.

    Mike

    • Like 3
  4. With Christmas done and my brother-in-law staying for a couple of weeks, I might as well put him to good use. Yesterday between showers we got the dry storage roof frame up.

    IMG_20211229_100509.thumb.jpg.7a7b22f584c87903e957cbfe17c58634.jpg

    Today we got the membrane and roof panels on the back half.

    IMG_20211229_152030.thumb.jpg.3829e1c2f1fcc7b07fbb90cb6eec483b.jpg

    IMG_20211229_152042.thumb.jpg.ff5c4ef5bafbe6367c3d869e2394d49f.jpg

    Hopefully tomorrow I can cut a bit of the existing roof and squeeze the next truss and panels up.

    Mike

    • Like 3
  5. Sliding window are great and hideous for the same reasons. They rattle and don't shut on the seals very well (even if they do they pull away at about 50mph). They leak when parked at certain angle's. Are a pain at drive thru/ ticket booths. However the front window just cracked open demists the screen better than the heater and the air flow you can create in the summer is sublime. I love them but I'm nuttier than most.

    Mike

  6. Imported cars do have to go through an IVA but it's different to kit cars and radically altered. Generally speaking the registration date will tell you if it was done after SVA/IVA because it will be different to the registration number date. For instance mine is a Q plate but was registered in 2018, if it had an age related plate it would of been a D but still would of been registered in 2018.

    Mike

  7. Personally I don't like those recovery eyes. In my opinion the best options are jate rings, a decent bumper with recovery eyes (bolted on to more than just the four bolts on the dumb irons) or a steering guard with recovery eyes (bolted through both in front and behind the front cross member). Jate rings are best used with a bridle, it's all about spreading the load through the chassis.

    Mike

  8. I genuinely believe the change in towing laws will make absolutely no difference to the number or type of accidents related to trailers. This because a half wit with a small trailer is just as likely to crash as the same half wit with a big trailer. 

    Mike

    • Like 4
  9. The doors on our 110 are original and sliding window type. They are in surprisingly good shape for 38 year old doors. So yes I'd say the the 110 alloy door tops do help.

    The alloy door tops drain through 5he frame and out between the door and top so that should make things worse however they have galvanized cappings which reduces rot provided the seals are in good order.

    Mike

  10. 1 hour ago, Gazzar said:

    Only military defenders had sliding windows originally.

    Early 90/110 vehicles also had sliding windows, but they aren't defenders.

    Lots of owners prefer the series doors, naturally, as the series is a far superior vehicle, and so swap over, rather than buying a series vehicle. 

    Only early 110's (all body types) had sliding windows 1983 and 1984. With the introduction of the 90/127 (1985) came doors with wind up windows and lift up handles, on all wheelbases and body types. Somewhere around 1986 came push button handles. I suspect you could spec sliding windows (through the forerunner to special vehicles) as the British military did right through to the end. Over the years many vehicles have had their doors changed due to rust, so the chances of any vehicle having its original doors are slim.

    Mike

  11. 26 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

    Funny, the vehicle originally fitted with proper windows was retrofitted with modern wind-up windows, and the vehicle originally fitted with wind-up windows was retrofitted with proper windows.

    Goes to show the level of customisation that sticking with the same basic panels for the best part of a century can enable.

    And even then the sliding windows are series type not early 110/military.

    Mike

  12. The civilian 90 never had sliding windows. The military 90, 110 and 127 had sliding window right up until now bar one or two civilian spec models. The military/110 sliding window frames are different to the series version, they are aluminium instead of steel and the glass is a different shape. Series lower doors are also different but predominantly on the inside. However all doors from series 2 through to defender will fit the hole but the catches and hinges differ.

    Mike

  13. Thanks for the offer ed but I'm happy with how mine is working out. The roof will be going on over Xmas and if I get really carried away I might be able to do the front. All in this will be around 27m² with an additional 7m² of dry storage on one side. 

    Mike

  14. 4 hours ago, Snagger said:

    Glad it’s sorted.

    My understanding is that a normally RWD car will have toe in and a FWD or permanent 4wd car toe out.  I don’t think it is defined by the spring type.  Checking the LR specs for the Stage 1 and 101 should answer that question, though.  It is amazing how much effect the tracking has - my RR was leaping all over the road in the 1st and 2nd lane ruts on the M1 and M25 until I found it was a little toe in.  

    Your quite right. It's to do with the component slack being taken up so you end up near enough parallel under load. Nothing to do with spring type but this the reason for bumpsteer on some suspension types 

    Mike

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