miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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5 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
Riv nuts - hmmm. I'm never happy with Riv nuts unless they are in 3-4mm steel at the minimum. It's their unpleasant habbit of not undoing and just spinning around . Although I over maintain my vehicle and lavish Lanoguard on it every year, I just don't want that nasty twisting sensation... I might go with captive nuts, or I might go with a nice bit of 8mm by 12mm stainless bar I have, with threads cut into it
I do like my new MoT tester - she's very pleasant and, so far, the only female MoT tester I ever met
I have rivnuts holding my rear floor down (mines non structural and Ali) whenever I remove the fixings I copper slip them before going back in I haven't had issues yet.
Mike
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14 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
@miketomcat I'm breaking a 200 tdi disco shortly, I'm pretty sure it has a brass radiator, I can take it out over the weekend and bang it in the post for you, it doesn't leak and looks ok from what I can see through the grill regards Stephen
That would be fantastic obviously I'll reimburse you for your trouble/postage.
Mike
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It's looking very much like pull this engine and strip it. Chuck the other in for now. On another side note the radiator is definitely leaking so need to replace that to. Any recommendations as the one in there is Ali (cheap eBay job) and I'm not that impressed.
Mike
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I'm well aware of that just can't remember if that's a written off block. I know it's not a DIY job.
Mike
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Just done an oil and filter change it made no difference and I didn't see anything amiss. The engine is under 170k so whilst not young it's not rocket ship either. I'll try the obvious easy fixes if none work it'll be a case of run it till something gives. I have another engine though that's had different issues in the past but I know what that was know.
The rope jamming was a little odd to I'd just finish using it for a recovery then couldn't free spool it back out for the next one. Tried a tree and nearly pulled it down, especially when it started juddering. Once I managed to get it out I rinsed it off in the lake and winched it back in, still jammed. I thought the chassis pulley had seized but that's fine. It seems to be jammed towards the back of the tube because there is give at the front. Whilst it's not a clean as it could be I wondered if there's a build up of fibres that have got hot enough to melt into a block. My plan is to take the hook off and winch it out of the tube. Then I can run a drain cleaner up it to see if I can clear it.
Mike
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It's just odd that it's started when the weather's colder. I should have a gauge somewhere but it'll be in storage.
Mike
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Deep joy I've now got an oil pressure issue. Over the last week or so when good and hot the oil pressure light flickers at tick over. This now seems to do it after a run in traffic. I should have a spare switch so I'll try that to start with. I'm also going to replace the radiator as it created the same issue when I built it this was due to restricted oil ports.
On another note the winch line has jammed in the tube so need to look at that to.
Mike
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There may be some vinyl flooring in the offing but if that doesn't come off paint is on the cards. The front half is the original floor of the shed with laminate flooring which works surprisingly well so that's an option to.
Mike
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I'm hoping it'll lighten up as it drys out but I'm not holding my breath.
Mike
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Told you I was doing it on a serious budget......
It's just a sand and cement mix floated on as best I could. I coated the original concrete with a bitumen paint first to hopefully keep the damp out.
Mike
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Taken another.
Mike
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Taken this morning.
This afternoon I've screed the rear half of the floor. I thought I took a picture but now can't find it.
Mike
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Filip I tried normal once it was by far the easiest nicest car I've ever had. I absolutely hated every second of owning it. Stay wierd it's the best policy as far as I'm concerned.
Mike
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My list is sooooo long and spread over 4 cars. There simply isn't room here......
Mike
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Ive
1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:I take it you haven't had much chance to do anything with vehicles yet, then
I've done a gearbox swap on the drive and they know I've got cars that aren't here yet.
plus we have a 110, the ibex, a big box trailer out the front and I think they know about the Sankey up the side. Mike
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The neighbor is really impressed with it to but given they think we're wonderful compared to the previous
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3 hours ago, daveturnbull said:
Next job, straighten the fence up
The previous owner created that abortion and it drives me nuts.
Mike
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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:
Wow Mike - it suddenly looks massive !
It's about 27m² floor area inside, plus 6m² external dry storage. It should be a decent work area it's just a shame I can't get a car to it with the exception of a jem shell
when she's not looking.
Mike
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Wife took a picture before it got dark.
Mike
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6 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Mike -looking good, a roof on makes a huuuuge difference
It certainly does, I was hoping to get it on at Christmas but the weather and realizing the front had to be done first scuppered that. Hopefully I can get the rear Half's floor sorted soon then I can take the rear wall down. I've been out tonight to sort some temporary lighting so I can get some stuff done in the evening's.
Mike
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It was dark by that point last night. I've still got to take down the rest of the original shed but it should be watertight.
Mike
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The front wall went up Friday, I've done away with the window for now. The door has been moved from the original shed to the concrete workshop opening and works better than it ever did. I also cut the old roof off on Saturday. Yesterday I got the rest of the frame up and membrane/sheeted the roof.
Mike
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If you two were in the same workshop all hell would break loose, good job your at different ends of the country.
Mike
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23 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
Yes, I’d use it if it’s not been rotting away.
I’d also take the opportunity to go with the Td5’s rear plastic tanks - no more rust, 55litre capacity, and more under seat storage.
Im sure you don’t need a new rear crossmember too?, I think the Td5 just has the adjustable tabs for the rear body mount and other than that works fine.
It's a 110 so switching tanks isn't a huge leap but the TD5 item is plastic so I would.
The marsland chassis on mine has a TD5 cross member with older style tabs welded on. You should be able to use either the TD5 adjustable rail mount or add tabs. I'm not aware of any changes to the rear tub until puma so don't see why the rails either side of the tank need changing. Many have fitted TD5 tubs on earlier chassis.
I'm fairly sure the gearbox mounts are bolt on. The 300tdi and TD5 use the same gearbox and transfer box so the mounts should be the same (I'm using TD5 gearbox mounts on an lt77). The prop lengths are the same so I assume the gearbox is in the same place.
TD5 exhaust should mate to a 300 down pipe you may need to alter the length and flange (again I'm running a TD5 centre and rear coupled to a 200tdi discovery down pipe on my ibex).
Overall if you have the skills to move the engine mounts then the rest is either buying a different part and/or some adaptions. Once the two chassis are side by side all becomes clear anyway.
Mike
ibex 300 build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Well the oil pressure issue definitely isn't getting better.
as this is my daily I'll drag the other engine out put the head back on and get it ready to go in, at least then I can rebuild this one when time and finances allow (hopefully before the other one dies as well 
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As for @Stellaghost I'm sure at some point he'll need something fibreglass making/repairing, now that I can do for him.
Mike