- Popular Post
miketomcat
-
Posts
5,456 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
141
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by miketomcat
-
-
In 45 I had two matched battery's and a split charge diode. The ibex I have now has the aforementioned blue sea acr and a pair of 110 amp varta AGM stop start battery's. The acr is set up to link automatically when the start battery rises above 12.7v but manually connects both battery's when the winch is turned on.
Mike
-
I have a 500amp acr from blue sea on my ibex.
Mike
-
1
-
-
Possibly because the heads clash with the foot wells. Certainly this would be the case with a 200tdi, TD and n/a as all are quite close to the bulkhead. The 300 is quite a bit further forward though.
Mike
-
1
-
-
This may help (copied from another thread):
finally i have a fairly good list for coil sprung land rovers. All measurement are approx standard working length flange to flange:
defender
4 cyl/200tdi: 90 front 667 rear 667 110 rear 1055 130 rear 1480
300tdi/ td5 upto 02: 90 front 627 rear 712 110 rear 1080 130 rear 1520
post 02 td5 rover rear axle: 90 front 627 rear 712 110 rear 1170 130 rear 1600
V8: 90 front 627 rear 712 110 rear 1080 130 rear 1520
tdci: 90 front 700(bearing slip joint phasing can't be changed) rear 650 110 rear 1110 130 rear 1540
discovery I/II
all: front 637(td5 double carden) rear 887
range rover classic
V8 borg warner t-box: front 688 rear 885
LSE: front 637 rear 1080
V8/VM/200/300tdi: front 637 rear 887
hope this helps others if any are incorrect let me know.
mike
-
2
-
-
The route is a corridor so you can go off the beaten and often have to. We had to squeeze between two trees at one point, it resulted in a snapped winch line (tied it together to fine the stage, then spliced it in camp), two doors that wouldn't close anymore (bungee between to hold them shut) and quite a few more dents.
Mike
-
-
2
-
-
Tourist doesn't do the tree of God. The year we went was dryer than normal but on river crossing was half way up the windscreen.
Mike
-
I accepted the risk that I might be coming with a scrap truck. Dirtydiesel did scrap his range rover after the event.
Mike
-
Those tyres will be fine in adventure the route isn't the same as tr3 up, a large portion is but several of the more tricky bits are skipped. Don't worry there's still plenty to keep you occupied.
We did air down to about 15psi with no form of "stick" on the bead. Yes we punched tyres off but normally only one on a stage, one stage we did three but if you can't put it back on you shouldn't be going.
We had European breakdown cover but you still need to get out of Russia don't you daan.
There were several trucks in one of the classes with families in including kids. Dirtydiesel did it in a range rover, the Belgians I think took too. Dan and Jen took a camel 110!
Mike
-
Still looks like slurry.
-
Back wall is fully down now and amazingly the floor levels are near enough the same. I'm not moving stuff into the back section yet as I'm going to paint the rear floor (yes fridge I'm going to paint it 😛), oh and I may have an engine swap that's going to take precedence. Mind that should give the screed time to dry out properly before I paint.
Mike
-
1
-
-
I'm fortunate enough to be in good health for now, but I'm well aware of how things can change. Consiquently I've been a platelet donor for 20 years (the bit chemo inadvertently kills off) just to try to do my bit. I wish you and everyone in a similar situation a full and speedy recovery.
Mike
-
1
-
-
Careful if you visit you may get roped into carrying this:
Or
Down there.
Mike
-
Give me a couple of
weeksyears to tidy it up.Your all more than welcome anytime.
Mike
-
3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
So when's the garage-warming party?
Still can't get in there yet. Mind half the back wall is down now.
Mike
-
I'm going to pick up the other engine tomorrow and bring it here so I can get it built back up during the week.
Mike
-
I've cladded the front bits this morning, just needs a coat of paint to tidy the front up.
Mostly inside now, still got to remove old walls.
Mike
-
4
-
-
I don't have them fitted but you do get uneven rear pad wear. Mine tend to last about a year (about 10k) on the rear.
Mike
-
1
-
-
You are a saint and a gent, thank you.
Mike
-
1
-
1
-
-
-
30 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
Massive hint the box is in my garage and the contents are going to live there....
Regards Stephen
Well that doesn't narrow it down much....
I can't keep track of the gear you do have let alone what you haven't made or need. For every daft idea we come up with you seem to have just the thing or you can mod "this" to work.
I'm only a little jealous.
Mike
-
31 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
If your struggling there's an engine behind the radiator..................
Regards Stephen
I'm good for the engine I think. The one I have tried to run away years ago but I caught it. Thinking it was turbo seals I put it in our 110 (when it snapped it's cam(same symptoms as the ibex now)), it wasn't turbo seals. I removed it and fitted another 200, then took the head off to find a blown gap in the head gasket between the oil way and bore and nothing else a miss.
I've ordered gaskets etc but need to drag the engine out of storage. If I'm getting that I may as well get the rest of my workshop gear at the same time. This means I've got this weekend to get the workshop ready for all my stuff.......
16 minutes ago, TSD said:@miketomcat Warm(ish), dry(ish) workshop space is available if you need it. One of very few in the country that has a courtesy Ibex available for favoured customers
I may well take take you up on this.....
Mike
-
1
-
1
-
-
Well the oil pressure issue definitely isn't getting better.
as this is my daily I'll drag the other engine out put the head back on and get it ready to go in, at least then I can rebuild this one when time and finances allow (hopefully before the other one dies as well 
).
As for @Stellaghost I'm sure at some point he'll need something fibreglass making/repairing, now that I can do for him.
Mike
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
Riv nuts - hmmm. I'm never happy with Riv nuts unless they are in 3-4mm steel at the minimum. It's their unpleasant habbit of not undoing and just spinning around . Although I over maintain my vehicle and lavish Lanoguard on it every year, I just don't want that nasty twisting sensation... I might go with captive nuts, or I might go with a nice bit of 8mm by 12mm stainless bar I have, with threads cut into it
I do like my new MoT tester - she's very pleasant and, so far, the only female MoT tester I ever met
I have rivnuts holding my rear floor down (mines non structural and Ali) whenever I remove the fixings I copper slip them before going back in I haven't had issues yet.
Mike
-
1
-
We did air down to about 15psi with no form of "stick" on the bead. Yes we punched tyres off but normally only one on a stage, one stage we did three but if you can't put it back on you shouldn't be going.
as this is my daily I'll drag the other engine out put the head back on and get it ready to go in, at least then I can rebuild this one when time and finances allow (hopefully before the other one dies as well 
).
ibex 300 build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Old one out.
Swap some bits over.
Replacement back in.
Enough for today. Found a broken bump stop mount, while the engine was out we had room to weld it back together. Hopefully get it running tomorrow. Huge thanks to TSD for his help and use of his workshop.
Mike