miketomcat
-
Posts
5,453 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
141
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by miketomcat
-
-
58 minutes ago, Wytze said:
Is the kettle on yet? 😁
I hope so I'm leaving shortly........
Mike
-
1
-
-
From memory the bearing is held in by a circlip and the output shaft just pulls out. Remember to drain the oil first.
Mike
-
First order will to poke, prod and look at (whilst drinking tea
). Then we'll move on to letting fridge drive down the road whilst I'm safely outside. 
probably move on to some hanging out of window/door. 
by this point it'll be cold, wet and dark. 
Mike
-
I've got bfg 255/85x16 km2's on the 110, so we'll try them at the weekend. Don't worry I will take photos.....it's going to look sooooo silly.
Mike
-
1
-
3
-
-
I have one on the battery box of each vehicle. Front foot well of the 110 and rear foot well in the ibex both are fed with 50mm² cable. The 110 has 35mm² jump leads and the ibex 50mm². Neither are fused or isolated. They are useful to charge through as I can just get the crocodile clips in. Just make sure you mount it far enough in that you can shut the door with the jump lead connect (I wish I'd thought about this on the 110).
Mike
-
I can bring the 110 up and pull the wheels off (16" modulars) and try them it would at least eliminate wheels and tyres if nothing else.
Mike
-
Definitely toe out for driven wheels as it allows for take up giving you parallel in use.
Check your castor angle has whatever caused the tracking issue rotated the axle, weak spring, anti wrap or moved on the spring seats.
UJ/ prop worth a look as stated.
Have you had this problem since changing your wheels to banded wolf's? They are considerably heavier than modulars and are they/the tyres actually still round. Are the wheel nuts tight?
I could pop up if a fresh pair of eyes help.
Mike
-
Sorry can't help with gas showers. But if you use the thermo top you could add a heat exchanger and fan, that way you could heat an area to. Just a thought.
Mike
-
2
-
-
Much as I love the idea of a camper truck I've come to the conclusion anything bigger than 3.5T is pointless and even then it doesn't really want to be much bigger than a 101/130.
Mike
-
If it isn't smoking and passes the mot I'd be inclined to go with it. Personally I've never seen the point in the boost pin, the standard one can be turned to make it smoke surely that's enough.
Mike
-
1
-
1
-
-
Exactly what snagger said. I've used ATF to free off a seized pin and cone. I would suggest the deep scoring is probably the factory position and given your running slightly higher boost you could just go to the higher fueling side of the groove about ⅛ of a turn.
Mike
-
1
-
-
If you put the old pin back in have a look at it first. There is likely a witness mark on the cone from the fueling pin in the hole. If so just line the mark up with the pin and pop it back in. Mine has two witness marks on, one is factory the other is fiddled. For the IVA I just returned it to the factory mark, it passed so worked for me.
Mike
-
2 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
Mike, speak to James about insulated boxes - he may have a source (like those ones in the yard)
I need to get my finger out and finish his engine cover first.....
Mike
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Nonimouse said:
I'm thinking along similar lines. But no bike. However I will go light weight and to avoid IVA unpleasantness, I'll use an existing box trailer and work up from there
I also have a plan to use a Tesco's delivery box on and existing trailer chassis (possibly horse box chassis). Mine would sleep 4 and have a toilet inside, kitchen area and storage accessed from outside. Awning with wood burner on the side. Just need time and money now..... DOH.
Mike
-
Never really liked the Pinz and still don't have any money.
Mike
-
29 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
I Have a coupleof spare LT77#s if you are caught short. I also have an autobox for a 200tdi and all the associated fittings. Box needs a service and a new sump seal - just in case
Meant to say, I've found a couple of X9 plastic end plates - if you want one
Thanks, I'm ok for a gearbox for now just will grab one as a spare at some point. The plate I made for the X9 is fine so no worries.
Mike
-
1
-
-
Oi I haven't made it to 50 yet. But I do have a dodgey back and ankle. There is concrete there but it's uneven, different heights and has no damp proofing. One advantage of doing the floor inside after the walls are up is it'll but higher than the surrounding concrete so shouldn't get any water ingress.
Mike
-
@daveturnbull and @Badger110 both are gratious offers, I really appreciate them. For now I'm going to concentrate on getting a roof on and water tight. The floor it's self will have to be done in two stints anyway as I'll have to do the back half then shift everything to do the front. It doesn't need to be that strong as it's very difficult to get a car to/into it and even if I did it's likely to only be a shell at no more than 100kg.
Mike
-
A wheelie bin (which I don't have) and/or a wheelbarrow are not fun up the length of my garden. To get a truck in I would need around 6 wheelbarrows and stupid friends to keep up and I'd need to clear the current shed which I have no where to store the contents. Besides the key word here is budget or lack of one.
Mike
-
I don't do much fibreglass these days, apart from fixing plastic cars from time to time. I was planning on a fibre glass roof, I have a roll of Matt and resin is around £100 for 25kg gel is over double that but the absolute killer was 9mm OSB it was £450. The metal sheets I'm picking up tomorrow are second hand but more than I need at £150 and a roll of membrane I can get for about £50. My total spend so far is £480 including the roof and thats already more than I can justify at the moment.
Mike
-
1
-
-
Something else I need some thought/ideas on is floor. From what I can see/guess the shed is on a concrete pad however it's about 150mm lower than the surrounding concrete including the bits I've added to put the new walls on. The current shed floor is on 150mm joists then something (I assume planks) and laminate flooring on top. It is roughly the same height as the surrounding concrete. I very much doubt any of it has any kind of damp proofing.
So my ideas are lay some damp proof membrane the float a couple of inches of concrete over the top back filling the lower part (the concrete would have to be mixed by hand). Whilst at the Haynes museum I noted the had a paving slab floor in one area so I could go membrane sand and slabs. My father suggested leaving the shed floor in the lower section and laying a vinyl floor over the lot. Suggestions and comments welcome.
Mike
-
Three walls are complete now. I need to make up three extended roof trusses ready for the roof unfortunately I can't fit them until I take the roof of the existing shed. I've also discovered the existing shed is squiffy as one wall finishes bang on the front face the other protrudes about 100mm. I will need to concrete across the front to take the front wall but that maybe next year now as I need to take the existing shed front down to do this.
Mike
-
1 hour ago, Ed Poore said:
Looks like a 110 chassis to me?
I was basing my assumption on 101 wheelbase.
-
So when exactly did they fit coil springs to a forward control. To be honest it looks like a discovery chassis.
Mike
probably move on to some hanging out of window/door. 
by this point it'll be cold, wet and dark. 
Running out of ideas - death wobble at <30mph
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
It looks like success.
We found a slightly loose TRE (got tightened) and adjusted the tracking to toe out (2mm on the rims). The TRE didn't solve it but it settled rather than getting worse. The tracking then solved it.
Mike