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I think a more common name for them is a flogging spanner, I used them in quarries etc. you need space and a good swift slap with 14lb hammer.

How about on yer front bumper if no winch to take into consideration. I put my one on the roof rack as it was wrecking the back door,however it did raise the noise level when travelling at speed, I would think that with one on either side of thevehicle it would increase dramatically. Just a thought.Graham.

[a ttachment=21472:006.JPG]The black wire enters the rear of the switch with the purple and black wire in is pressed along with the splined end of the metal rod into the blue plastic rocker part of the switch. See attach pics. Graham.

I am looking at my switch which I replaced, is it the short black wire? if so, the black comes together out with a purple wire and then goes to the left of the black and purple wire. I will attach picture in a while.

so you've turned into a 4x4 couch potato? sad, very sad, make some time, get out and get a life in some lanes.

Yep, I did them same with 2 sockets, 24 & 30 with a bit of pipe and use them regularly with 110 impact gun.

As western says, its on the back of the transfer box, the output shaft runs up the inside edge of the chassis on the passenger side. I have a superwinch H14W fitted to the front of my landy.

Is there anyone out there who can tell me what the part number is for the oil seal where the winch pto drive leaves the gearbox on a 99 Td5,Defender. Shaft is 19mm. Casing internal diameter is 32mm. Is it a standard size get anywhere seal or LR part only? Thanks Graham.

Thanks Steve, very helpful, do you think it was worth while doing this mod and what advantage do you gain?

Want to do the egr mod on my Td5, was looking at the pictures of Dans that he posted earlier, but I am concerned about the black pipe going towards the ground, I am presuming that the end is open, if so what is going to happen in the event of a large ingress of water? What diameter is that pipe? Thanks.

Ok thanks.

Ok thanks. Where does the hose go to? what happens if you go wading into some water? will it be sucked in? What diameter is the rubber hose? Graham.

I was looking at your pics, I have a 99 TD5, what are the advantages of doing this mod, how long does it take?

Yep take it back if i ts faulty. Would buy a pair of shoes if they was nippin your feet? I DONT THINK SO.

Mosa do a gen set you can tow along with you, reasonably quiet to if your worried about the noise pollution and it would run a welder as it has 3 phase ,220 & 110 power outlets. Generally they are a dark red/wine colur machine. G.

Does your miller need 3 phase power? Are you going to buy a 3 phase welder? If you are going to be welding ally with tig then you will need an ac/dc welder, if not or you are only going to tig stainless then you can use a much smaller machine at a fraction of the cost. There are small machines on the market that will run on 220 or 110 that will do tig and arc.

I am only guessing here, there are 3 types of air line conection available you will just have to gt the ones that are compatable with what you already are using and get one of those light plastic susie lines that are in a coil that expand and contract as you move around, same as the ones used on artic trucks, and some filling stations use them at their services for air to blow up your car tyres.

Those grills are intended for internal use, previous owner had them fitted to my td5. Someone must do them in stainless cos mine are stainless, they are ok security wise but they dont give the best vision from a drivers point of view, but I tend to drive more using the door mirrors. I dont have the luxury of wiper or the brake light sso no cut outs in the grills for that.

used t be able t buy just the drill bodies, minus battery and charger on ebay for small money Graham.

Just a thought, for any one cutting ally, for the last 20 years or so when I have to cut ally i would only use a grinder as a last resort, jig saw with wood blade or a rip snorter is best, very noisy but cuts clean and easy.

I undid the bolt from the top hinge then undid the two bolts on on the upper half of the hinge removed them and lifted of the top part of the hinge bringing the bolt with it. I then undid the nuts on the other two bolts, disconected the tie bar on the inside and lifted of the door. the rest is self explantary. Graham.

Thats the kit I bought. About 30 mins did the job. Graham

I used mine for pullin my ass off the ground after kneelin and draining the water out of me fog and reversin lights.

My td5 had that disease so I bought 3 new bolts on ebay for £3 plus postage and cured the problem of the lock at the same time.Graham.

I have a set of stud extractors, same principal as the others, drill the hole first is the hardest job, but the tool itself that I have is like a spline shaft that you tap into the hole then a nut slides on to the spline and you use a 17mm spanner to twist the sheared off stud out with. best to heat the stud b4 tapping in the spline. I can post a pic if you want later on.