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PaulMc

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Posts posted by PaulMc

  1. Thanks, the dealer can't source them. Didn't know if anyone would know of a place I can buy the header joints. Dealer says all but the blue ones are discontinued.

    Dealers talking nonsense as usual - AFAIK, they've never been available as spare part from Land Rover or MG-Rover.

    They're still available from the connector's manufacturer (Sumitomo).

    But, you have to buy a bag of 100 connectors, a bag of 100 splice caps, and a reel of 5000 terminals - then, you have to find someone stocking them, and willing to sell them to you, otherwise Minimum order Quantities (MoQ) apply, and you have to order thousands.

    I have a small stock of these headers, I posted details here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=97603&p=850584

    I've also PM'ed you.

    .

  2. It sounds as though you may looking for circuit headers, or splice connectors.

    I have the 20-way splice connectors, used as circuit headers on Defenders from 300Tdi to date.

    They are available in six different colours, each colour denotes a different configuration (and number) of commoned circuits.

    Although the splice caps on these are sub-divided into sub-circuits, you can easily change this configuration by inserting a short link lead loop between sub-circuits. Land Rover do this on several headers, to increase the number of 'ways' available at a particular header.


    BLACK
    HMSplice-Black.jpg

    Sub-divided into five circuits -

    HMSplice-Black-Circuits.jpg




    BLUE
    HMSplice-Blue.jpg

    Sub-divided into four circuits -

    HMSplice-Blue-Circuits.jpg




    GREEN
    HMSplice-Green.jpg

    Sub-divided into four circuits -

    HMSplice-Green-Circuits.jpg




    GREY
    HMSplice-Grey.jpg

    Sub-divided into three circuits -

    HMSplice-Grey-Circuits.jpg




    ORANGE
    HMSplice-Orange.jpg

    Sub-divided into six circuits -

    HMSplice-Orange-Circuits.jpg




    YELLOW
    HMSplice-Yellow.jpg

    Sub-divided into five circuits -

    HMSplice-Yellow-Circuits.jpg



    Supplied (as pictured above) with a 20-Way Splice Connector, Splice Cap and 20 x Sumitomo 090 Terminals.

    They are £8.95 each + Postage

    .

  3. Everything is possible. But it won't be easy. The hydraulics are the easy part, the pump should fit on the Bosch V8s.

    Fairly sure the ACE ECU is heavily tied into the BCU/SLABS in the D2, so moving that out of there will be difficult.

    The P38 also has no regular anti-roll bar in the rear, instead it uses the composite radius arms as an ARB. I'm not sure how well those two would work together.

    Sounds like an interesting project though!

    Electrically, the ACE system is fairly self-contained.

    There's no connection to the BCU.

    There's a single connection to the engine ECM, for an engine speed signal, and a single connection to the SLABS ECU for a road speed signal.

    .

  4. I used this wiper arm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281507238945?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT hook type end

    &

    this blade to match http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271856254490?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    both fitted & work fine, my old arm had a side pin fitting to wiper blade

    That's the one icon_thumbup.gif

    PRC8558

    Superseded by DKB000370PMD

    Superseded by DKB000371PMD

    Superseded by LR033006

    .

    • Like 1
  5. That's a good idea Paul. It started out as an 89 when it left the factory. The only original part left is the registration plate.

    That sounds a bit like my 1989 110 :lol:

    If you use the 300Tdi wiring diagrams as a reference - the wiring is still fairly basic, and should easily translate to a 1989 vehicle..

    It's been a while since I served my time and no longer in the trade- mini disclaimer.

    When selecting cable am I looked at the sq or the amp rating of the cable. I would imagine myself the amp rating but in on the RS site and notice while that lets say the amp rating is 6A the sq of the cable varies from .25mm to 1mm sq. why is this.

    A cable's current rating depends on the type of insulation, as well as the thickness of copper.

    I wouldn't buy Automotive cable from RS - as, they only stock a very limited range of expensive cable from TE Connectivity.

    As previous posters have said, have a look at - VWP, Autosparks, as well as - AES, Polevolt, and Kojaycat.

    http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/198/1/single-core-pvc-thin-wall-cable

    http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/cables/thin-wall.html

    http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/70/category/114

    http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Thinwall_cable_cut_to_length.html

    http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Full_100_mtr_Reels.html

    http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Categories/Cable

    .

  6. I think you're right Phil, it sounds as though they're put under pressure by their managers, to cope with the extra workload at this time of year.

    Royal Mail usually take on casual staff to cope with the increased volume.

    .

  7. The 10AS unit controls the central locking (if it has the extra relay on its circuitboard), as well as the turning on and off, the courtesy lights.

    You can hook-up aftermarket lock actuators to work with the 10AS unit - but, only as lock/unlock 'slave' units.

    The 5-wire control circuit 'master' actuator for the driver's door, which is supplied in all of the aftermarket kits, is incompatible with the 4-wire control circuit used in the 10AS and 'factory' driver's door 'master' actuator.

    .

  8. Wow you are the go to guy and switch info thank you very much , I've been a little confused regards heat seat switches as come seam long and others seam tall if that makes sense I'm after the taller style but the £50 on line.

    This also explains why the disco hrw switch will not run my defender , so the defender switch you have to physically turn on and off? Where as the disco one is momentary ?

    I'm looking at buying a disco switch panel which has 4 e/w switches and 2 heated seat ones . So these will work in a def

    The TD5 (Defender and Discovery-2) heated seat switches are 'portrait' -

    YUG102430.jpg

    The TDCi Puma heated seat switches are 'landscape' (and a lot cheaper than the TD5 type) -

    optoly_gb_l316_n-022am.jpg

    The heated seat switches (TD5 and Puma) are wired the same as the Defender heated rear window switch.

    So, you could use the Discovery-2 heated rear window switch front on a Puma heated seat switch.

    The Discovery-2 front windows switches and heated seat switches are exactly the same switches as used in the TD5 Defender - so, will work OK icon_thumbup.gif

    .

  9. Does anyone know if any switches are interchangeable between the disco td5 and the def td5,

    E/w

    Heated seats

    Rear Demister

    Front heated screen

    Cheers ross

    The TD5 Defender electric windows switches were lifted straight out of the pre-facelift Discovery-2 (1999 - 2002), and are exactly the same part numbers (front windows switches only, the Discovery-2 rear windows switches are different, and use a different coloured connector).

    The front electric windows switches from a facelift Discovery-2 (2003 - 2004) will also work - but, they're 'Black', whereas the pre-facelift Discovery-2 and Defender ones are 'Ash Grey'.

    The TD5 Defender heated seat switches were also lifted straight out of the pre-facelift Discovery-2 (1999 - 2002), and are exactly the same part numbers.

    The heated seat switches from a facelift Discovery-2 (2003 - 2004) will also work - but, they're 'Black', whereas the pre-facelift Discovery-2 and Defender ones are 'Ash Grey'.

    The Discovery-2 heated rear window (HRW) switch shares the same switch front as the Defender (pre-facelift/facelift colours, as above) - but, switches differently.

    On the Defender, the HRW switch is a latching, live-switching switch.

    On the Discovery-2, the HRW switch is momentary, earth-switching switch, working in conjuction with the Body Control Unit (BCU).

    They also use different coloured (and keyed) 5-way connectors -

    The Defender uses the Blue 5-way connector.

    The Discovery-2 uses the Black 5-way connector.

    The Discovery-2 and Defender heated front screen (HFS) switches share the same switch front (pre-facelift/facelift colours, as above), and are electrically identical, they are both momentary, earth-switching switches - but, they both use different coloured connectors -

    The Defender switch works in conjunction with the timer relay, and uses a White 5-way connector.

    The Discovery-2 switch works in conjunction with the BCU, and uses a Green 5-way connector.

    There may also be differences between the moulded keyways on the switch's bodies - but, these are easily removed with a sharp knife.

    .

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