PaulMc

May 30, 2013

A 1988 110 should have the rear fog lamp switch on the steering column.

PRC3432

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/9798/PRC3432-SWITCH-REAR-FOG-LAMP.html

.

May 9, 2013

Anyone got a reccomendation for a crimper that does the Warning light panel terminals? The proper crimper is about £250 so over £8 a crimp

I use one of these Hozan P-706 crimping tools -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hozan-P-706-CRIMPING-TOOL-/190832887283

$(KGrHqVHJC8E+WwjKDdoBP6843mc7!~~60_12.J

Not cheap, but very versatile.

Unlike the Tyco crimpers, which cost several hundred pounds, and will only crimp one type and size of terminal, these Hozan crimpers will crimp almost every type of terminal you'll find in the connectors used on late model Land Rovers.

I've used them to make perfect crimps on -

MQS sealed (TD5 horns, side repeaters)

MQS unsealed (TD5 clock, Tdci instrument connectors)

040" Multilock (TD5 instrument warning lights connectors)

070" Multilock (switch connectors)

090" Sumitomo unsealed (TD5 14-way instrument harness connector, hazard warning lights switch connector, 20-way circuit headers)

090" Sumitomo sealed (TD5 main/engine/chassis harness interconnects, Denso alternator connector)

070" Econoseal (NAS lamp connectors)

Junior Timer & Junior Power Timer - sealed and unsealed

As well as several other types of terminal.

.

May 8, 2013

I made reference to the VAG number in my eBay listing.

There's another ebay seller, selling the connector housings individually, without terminals -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170790428298

$(KGrHqF,!ksE8Or0d-jFBPR8G)5tnQ~~60_12.J

He works out a bit cheaper than the VAG dealer.

You can use standard Junior Power Timer female terminals in them...

But, the ones that most sellers stock are meant for the sealed connector series, so have a different shaped rear, to accomodate the wire seal, instead of crimping to the cable's insulation.

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Junior_Power_Timer_Connectors.html

.

Terminals from VAG

'Repair Wires' (terminals pre-crimped to Yellow cable) -

000 979 021 (0.5 mm²) (as above)

000 979 133 (1.0 mm²)

000 979 225 (2.5 mm²)

Loose Terminals

N 906 844 05 (1.0 mm²)

N 906 845 05 (2.5 mm²)

.

May 8, 2013

Hi All,

I've looked and looked on this thread but cannot find anywhere that I can find the top red plug and connectors for my speedo conversion, Could someone please point me in the direction of getting hold of one, I'm happy with the rest of the dials as I have red LED's in them and can see them fine and dandy at night just wanted a TD5 speedometer which I've done but instead of the crimped connectors I have on there I'd like the proper plug for it

TIA

John

Contact the seller of this auction http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151031007465 he doesn't have any listed at the moment but he regularly lists them.

That's me

I haven't relisted them because I only have one set left (3 connectors, in fact; so, if someone needs just one connector ), and I'm struggling to find more stocks.

These are genuine AMP/Tyco connectors and terminals, exactly the same parts as found on the factory wiring harness.

PM me if you're interested.

.

April 22, 2013

Only 2 of the 3-ways in the connector are used.

Pin 1 - Charge warning light - Brown/Yellow

Pin 2 - Ignition-switched live - White/Green (Discovery II) / Green/Yellow (Defender)

Pin 3 - Not used

The pin numbering in the connector is -

The above diagram is of the connector 'face' or front, the cables are inserted from the other side.

I can supply a new connector with terminals and wire seals. If you need one, drop me a PM.

.

April 8, 2013

The newer pumps use Econoseal connectors, which can be bought from Polevolt - http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_ESC2F.html

Don't worry about the different coloured connectors/pumps, the keyways are the same between the Black and Red versions.

Or, if you don't want to crimp the terminals to your existing harness, Land Rover do a 'service' link harness for fitting newer pumps into older vehicles - AMR3849

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-AMR3849

Britcar do a Britpart and Allmakes version that's a bit cheaper than Genuine (the Britpart one is pictured with a Red Econoseal connector) -

Britpart (even they couldn't f*** this up, could they :huh: )

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/188962/0/wiring_harness_washer_pump_def_rrc

Allmakes

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/202019/0/wiring_harness_washer_pump_def_rrc

.

March 17, 2013

Hi i am building one loom for my project defender, out of some other defender TD5 looms ( i want none ecu loom , but with ABS, C\L, E\W and alarm etc) and i have a central locking question.. The pink and orange wire for the central locking seem to go in the the area under the passender seat with a white connector on it. I thought the central locking was controled by the green alarm ecu under the dash. Does anybody know what this connects to, as i have wires going to front doors x 2 and rear door and to the alarm ecu? Or is it the link for the second 2 doors on the 110?
Thanks

The 3-way white connector on the main harness under the driver's seat (C2004), connects to (C2005) on the Link Harness, which runs to each of the rear side doors on the station wagon.

There are two versions of the link harness –

LR016437 – contains the wiring for the door entry switches (for courtesy interior lights/burglar alarm).

LR016438 – contains the wiring for the door entry switches and remote central locking.

(LR016438 pictured)

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March 17, 2013

I've not been on here for a while and have only just seen this thread.

The OP's connector is a Delphi Weather-Pack connector.

Depending on the terminals and wire seals used, they can accomodate up to 3.0mm² cable, and are rated for up to 20 Amps.

You can get some of the range from Simtek -

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/index.php/automotive_connectors/delphi_connectors/?k=:12:359918:

.

February 10, 2013

I'm trying to do a good job, angle iron would make them very heavy. Who sells this expanded mesh then?

F.H.Brundle - http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/groups/02__Expanded_Metal

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December 23, 2012

I have a heater from a 200tdi therefore it has the old-style harness connector. However my main wiring harness is a td5 type, and so the connector for the heater is like this...

How do i go about chopping off the old connector from the heater, and adding a plug that will match my td5 harness above? Can it even be done?

Thanks

Phil

should be the same number of wires & same colour coding, just chop the connector off & re=terminate both ends or a tidier solution, PM PaulMc he maybe able to sort a suitable matching connector to re-terminate the heater motor wiring, thus keeping the main dash loom intact

Hello Phil,

As Ralph has said, if you don't want to cut the connector off of your main harness, I can supply a male connector to mate with the heater connector.

This would leave you the option of easily fitting a TD5 heater unit at a later date.

Paul.

December 20, 2012

Anyone know connector type and source for these? Alternative is to buy a loom, but I'd rather not as I only need the regulator connector for each door.

It's the round black connector in pic...

Thanks

Steve

The Window Motor Connector is the Grey Connector, it's made by FCI -

Here's a couple of pics of the connector on a front door loom that I have -

.

Its terminals are similar to the TE (AMP) Junior Power Timer terminals.

I don't have this connector and can't find anyone willing to sell less than 1500 pieces (not including terminals and wire seals)

It's probably easier to buy the door harnesses from Land Rover, they're not that expensive.

LR016314 - HARNESS FRONT DOOR, PASSENGER (& DRIVER), WITH POWER FRONT WINDOWS, LESS DOOR ENTRY REMOTE CONTROL UNIT -

£12.01 (+ £2.40 VAT in EU)

LR016315 - HARNESS FRONT DOOR, DRIVER, WITH POWER FRONT WINDOWS, WITH DOOR ENTRY REMOTE CONTROL UNIT -

£24.72 (+ £4.94 VAT in EU)

LR016316 - HARNESS FRONT DOOR, PASSENGER, WITH POWER FRONT WINDOWS, WITH DOOR ENTRY REMOTE CONTROL UNIT -

£24.72 (+ £4.94 VAT in EU)

.

December 16, 2012

I hope you can add a few more possibilities for a D1 of 1998 vintage too....

I have my rolling chassis sitting out in the yard and there is no vin on the chassis on the front legs nor the rear and neither is there anything to suggest any welding or repairs have taken place!!!

To say am miffed is understatement!!!

If it had been fitted with a replacement at some point in time would they have stamped it on there or not?

Here you are -

.

December 15, 2012

Can anyone tell me where to find the chassis number on a Disco 2 chassis. I always thought it was at the steering box mount.

On the RH side of the chassis behind the rear wheel -

.

November 30, 2012

Les,

I've been looking for a hand crimper to do an "F" crimp on terminals on 10mm² cable, but can't find anything suitable.

For that size of cable, all that I can find are either, hexagon or indent crimpers, which are fine for tube terminals, but no good for open-barrel terminals.

I'm still looking and, if I find anything suitable, I'll post the details here.

.

November 29, 2012

Chaps,

What is the correct crimper for 9.3mm un-unsulated spade terminals I cant flippin find one !!!

Please note - Hammer and blunt screwdriver/ or pliers is not the right answer

Getting it through work

any linkys to one greatfully recieved

For up to 6.0mm² cable, one of these does an excellent crimp -

http://www.polevolt....info_TT350.html

It's the one I'm using in my post here - http://forums.lr4x4....056#entry686080

.

November 28, 2012

Thanks for the advice got the cable on order.
Where did you get the crimps from?

Regards

J

Those particular splice crimps (good for a total CSA of 1.5 - 2.0mm²), I get from a trade supplier, in reels -

I can sell them to anyone who wants some, for 10p each.

You can improvise and make your own from the open-barrel of a non-insulated crimp terminal, this one is for 6.0mm² cable -

Just snip-off the connector, leaving the conductor open barrel crimp.

Depending on what you're splicing, it can sometimes be useful to leave the insulation support on it -

This is the above improvised splice crimp, being used to spur 1.5mm² cable from 3.0mm² cable -

Stripped with crimp in place -

Crimping -

Crimped -

.

November 28, 2012

Good advice from Jon

I wire them like this -

The above diagram doesn't show it but, of course, the '+12V' is from a fused supply

Also, the wire gauge shown is for 55W halogen lights, the gauge could be down-sized for LEDs, but not too small, as you don't want a voltage drop.

I use a continuous length of the larger gauge cable, with the conductor exposed and the smaller gauge 'spur' to each lamp crimped onto it it, using a splice crimp, which is then over-sleeved with adhesive-lined heatshrink, as this picture sequence illustrates -

. . .

Using a male/female connector at the gutter, so that the lightbar can be removed, is a good idea.

For your purposes, a 'standard' 070 (1.8mm) Econoseal connector is more than adequate - http://www.polevolt....Connectors.html

But, for halogen lights, I use the Econoseal 187 (4.8mm) Series, which will accomodate 3.0mm² cable, and has a nominal current rating of 25 Amps -

. . .

.

November 27, 2012

I recently upgraded the front seats on my defender 300tdi to heated puma ones and was wondering if anyone had any advice on how easy it is to wire them in? The cold weather is coming and i'd like a toasty......!!

Have a look at these threads -

http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=69458

http://www.defender2.../topic7679.html

http://www.defender2...6207.html#96207

Further to the information in the above threads, I can now supply the proper connectors to mate with the heated seats, along with the body clip to mount the connector to the seatbox -

. .

.

November 25, 2012

First up hello I'm new here and suffer with. 110 td5 year 2000

I've been having intermittent failure with all side head and dash lights

They all go out at the same time

After fitting a new switch it was no better

Had the dash part a little and one of the header joints is melted

Can I cut it off and just join together wires of the same colour that go into it ?

I think it's header number 0287 and sits behind the ligher socket where te loom drops down to te fuse box

Thanks all

You can just join together (solder and heat-shrink sleeve) all the wires for each circuit.

What year is your Defender?

Be careful - because, on C0287 on 1999-2001 TD5s, not all the wires going into the sub-circuit on cavities 11 to 14 are the same colour (Purple and Purple/Brown).

If you want to replace the burnt header, I can supply a replacement new Blue 20-way header and terminals -

I also have them in - Black, Green, Grey, Orange and Yellow - but, these all have different numbers and sizes of sub-circuits.

.

November 25, 2012

Replacement connectors can be fiited to the wiring loom.

I think that the Discovery-1 tail lights use a 2-way Econoseal connector (same as Defender 'NAS' lamps) but, to be sure, can you post a picture of the dodgy connector.

.

November 25, 2012

Thanks for the replies. drilling the holes is no problem, bit of Galvafroid on the holes !

Got no doors yet which is why I have no cables, but trying to get everything in place ready, so trying to picture how everything sits,

Mmmm yes we have cable that will suit this down to the ground, so might keep the connections in the bulkhead but will still need the grommet to get from door to A piller. I take it the door has a slide in section for the other end ?

Jason, yes please for some measurements if its not to much trouble

Regards

Les

Les,

The connections stay in the bulkhead, the convoluted grommet that goes between the bulkhead and the doors, is on the door harness.

This is the driver's door harness (LR016315) -

I've got a brand new LR016315 harness in a box under my desk, if you want bigger clearer pictures of the grommet and/or connectors.

.

November 17, 2012

You'll not find anyone selling those awful moulded rubber/bullet connectors separately because, as you said earlier, they're moulded around the bullet/cable in production..

If you want to retain that connector on your vehicle's loom and use a later Defender column switch then, as you've already said, you will need an adaptor loom.

The easiest way to do this would be to utilise the rubber/bullet connector from an old series/early Defender column switch, cut off of the switch with sufficient cable lengths to crimp on the later type of 4-way female connector, to mate with the newer type of switch.

I can supply the 4-way female connector and terminals.

.

October 26, 2012

Morning all !

When Scorpion racing where called Scorpion racing they made/sold som protection brackets for til lower rear corner of the outer tub.

These where placed from the rear crossmember and towards the wheel, belive you had to trim the panels to make them fit.

Now, does anybody sell these today ?

I have tried extreme 4X4 with no luck.

Cheers

Morten

Extreme still sell them -

http://www.extreme4x...MPER_STEPS.html

I believe that they're actually made by Safari-Equip -

http://www.safari-eq...ndex.php?page=5

.

October 13, 2012

You could use a Header Connector to splice multiple wires down to one.

The 20-way Sumitomo headers (as used all over Land Rovers), can have several sub-circuits in them, depending on their colour -

BLACK

Sub-divided into five circuits -

BLUE

Sub-divided into four circuits -

GREEN

Sub-divided into four circuits -

GREY

Sub-divided into three circuits -

ORANGE

Sub-divided into six circuits -

YELLOW

Sub-divided into five circuits -

.

October 10, 2012

Thanks for this. I am away from my TD5 right now, so a couple of questions...

1. Will this switch fit and look right in the top left spot in place of the blank?

2. Since I don't have any extra switch caps, is there a neat way to remove the icon and relabel the switch or a source for the right cap or a blank one?

Thanks!

1. Yes it will - but, you'll have to trim-off the moulded keyway at the back of the switch body (top right in the picture above).

2. You can use the cap off of the switch blank, but you will need to drill a 2.5mm hole for the tell-tale warning light's 'lense'

Have a look at this - http://www.lro.com/f...=385823#p385823

The switch caps are made from translucent white plastic, which has been sprayed black or Ash Grey, with the symbol masked-out, so that when back-lit, the symbol illuminates.

If you're good with a Dremel, you can engrave your own symbol in the blank, like the home-made cruise control switch, here -

http://www.lro.com/f...hp?f=18&t=58151

Or you could use a stick-on symbol, like these from VWP, or MUDSTUFF -

The MUDSTUFF symbols are clear on black, so if you polished away a small area of the paint finish on the blank switch cap (under where the symbol is going to be stuck), the symbol will illuminate with the dash lights.

Although they haven't pictured the sheet, MUDSTUFF also do a White on Clear sheet, which could be used on a blank switch cap , without any polishing away of it's paint finish.

Of course, this wouldn't illuminate with the dash lights.

.

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