Blanco

Relay 10 seems to be the culprit, although doesn't look damaged.

More snaps, These two are the logic board, and then .... These show the power board, the last detail is where the black residue was that didn't entirely clean up, behind the green connector

Haven't found such a guide yet, .... I definitely can be bothered, thank you,.. I will go and haul it back out from under and post some more pics, back half an hour or so....

I guess I was getting a bit complacent, but I should remember it's a P38, it was all going so well.... Coming home the other night, the dashboard started to light up, fuses 7, 8 and 17 had all apparently blown, and lots of consequential messages followed. The fuses hadn't blown, it is a reasonably common issue with the BECM. I removed and examined the BECM, and actually to my inexpert eye it didn't look too bad (not nearly as bad as the one from my parts car), I did a bit of a clean up, using Servisol switch cleaner (I think @FridgeFreezer recommended that to me a while back) most of the green crusties and water marks cleaned up except for two areas, Centre of the pic above there is a white mark which I thought was just lacquer, but looking closely there is some other discolouration I am not sure of and... here there are two large solder joints that wouldn't clean up, I'm not sure what causes this discolouration. Elsewhere there were some black deposits around a connector which mostly cleaned off but I don't seem to have pictured those. Anyway long story short it was no better after my efforts to clean up, I even got one more fuse added to the list! I know there are a couple of outfits in the UK that repair these but they want me to send the engine ecu, becm and a key into them. I was hoping to avoid the extra delay and just get a known good becm sent out to Ireland. Which brings me to the question. I know they are coded to the car, but I gather that the code is in the logic board, and the damp and water damage generally just affect the power board (as above), has anyone here tried swapping their own logic board into a.n.other becm and successfully got going again??

Buying a good one will be key, they are a good bit more complex than the D2. A good code reader would be essential for me. Have a look at LR TIME, Christian on there has covered just about everything for them. Might be wise to keep the old estate on ice for a while until you get confident.

And the various Government offices often aren't aware, I did some work a few years ago with the VRO in Bristol to get Type approval on said sawmill trailer (bare frame) and they were solely concerned that it met the O2 profile. It didn't appear on their radar that it was over 7m long for example. The trailer eventually passed as a built up sawmill. I myself got an Individual approval in France for mine, .. took some time with French bureaucracy being what it is. And not that anyone should take advantage of it, but bear in mind that the Police Service know very little about it either, If you are stopped with an unusual rig, provided you have a clear and convincing narrative and all the basic paperwork, they are unlikely to take it further, too much unfamiliar paperwork. (I have experience that as well, ... )

Very interested in all this at one time,.. I had a saw mill which was 9 meters long (and therefore too long?) on a regular ball hitch, because the power unit was right at the tail of the trailer it's weight distribution was less than ideal, I would have loved to make it into a semi-trailer. Most early Land Rovers at one time had a manufacturers trailer capacity of 4t I think, but of course the 3.5t limit became the norm which meant that for the extra 0.5t you needed power brakes, which few bothered with. B+E licence when I did it had an upper limit of 12.5t which a few French and Dutch manufacturers explored, and there were some great rigs out there, mainly designed for working in inner urban enviroments. I still think that 5th wheel format is inherently more stable and should be encouraged. In Britain nobody really took it up. The uncertainty about the legislation put people off, ... there was an outfit in Wales that did 5th wheel caravans, with either US pickups or small tractor units. ... and an outfit (Astra?) that did a few commercial trailers. I think the benefit for caravans is being able to set up camp and then go off shopping etc. in the tractor unit whatever it may be, which is massively more manoeuvreable / parkable etc.

I personally don't rely on the outriggers, I might if I had occasion to re-inforce them, but in standard and possibly less than perfect nick I don't try. At the front I go with the chassis itself just as it starts to turn up. At the rear I have home built angle iron shoes that reach back round the rear wheel to the back axle ... the lift arm itself is under the radius arm just forward of the axle. Most important is to learn where the balance point is, I find the door mirror is about right for me.

As you have little mechanical ability yourself at the moment (that might improve?) I just think that finding a trustworthy garage to help with this work is the biggest priority, .... in the short /medium term, improvements to the existing set up are bound to be the most cost effective, and I think that transfer box has to go. Engine swaps should only be contemplated if the workshop involved has a proven track record with the engine concerned, and can quote confidentlyy about the costs.

Welcome, and congrats on your aquisition. No simple answer I'm afraid, ... you have a vehicle, which,( in good condition) should be very capable in snow, ... if you don't have any experience of driving in slippery conditions then I recommend you arrange to 'play' on some private ground somewhere. The shifter gives you the option to limit the gearbox to the lower gears, but without experience the gearbox is likely to make a good enough choice in 'Drive' for uphill conditions, and for downhill you will do just as well pressing the 'Hill Descent' button on the dash. There is enormous fun to be had but you need to get a feel for the vehicle and it's handling in a safe enviroment before experimenting on public roads. If you get onto snow before you get the chance to familiarize yourself with the handling then just remember, smooth and progressive, .... your Discovery will get you through all except the worst conditions. Just check you have good tyres, brakes etc. before winter gets into it's stride. HTSH

Watching with interest, ... this is outside my comfort zone but could be very useful.

I like that, ... a grenade is quite appealing after 45mins!🤣

So do I, ... and elsewhere I have never really had a problem,... that is what I was using to get nowhere .... the problem was the location, if you check out the heater hose on the LH side of the car at the back of the head, it has a shield over it and the hose itself prevents direct access. ... attempts to slide the clamp along the hose once gripped caused me a deal of difficulty. Keeping the thing at max opening , and allowing me to position it without doing contortions with both hands was the key.

I can't find the home for this, so just posting it here for now. (I thought we had a tips and tricks thread?) Earlier today I spent far too long (45mins plus!) struggling at the back of my M51 head trying to position one of those springy style hose clamps, in this case a u-shaped heater hose under the inlet manifold. I knew this was coming up but decided it just didn't justify the expense of the Knipex pliers adapted for these things,... neither was I impressed with recent reviews on the cheap chinese jobs which seem to to be made of plastercine in recent years. So I was regretting my negative decision as I went into lunch. During lunch I decided to try tie wrapping the thing open,... it seemed to work on a small one but not on the 28mm one in question. After 2 more minutes I came up with this ... An M12 nut allowed me to position it perfectly and then just twist it off, just 2 mins once I had sliced the nut. I still fancy the Knipex pliers but was pleased with my (eventual!) compromise

I don't have anything that thin to hand ... but I reckon the 2mm offcuts I have access to would serve, I have checked a few P38's in the meantime and all these upper heatshields seem to be missing or massively deteriorated.

Thanks Bowie, thats exactly the sort of thing I post these small queries for ... raises other questions of course, ... is it reducing the life expectancy of an already well used turbo, or does the extra heat just keep the oil flowing inside it?

Now thats a thought, I have that somewhere, that could be a zero cost option, thansk lads.

Btw, autos are an age thing,.... I suspect you will get there one day, .... so also consider how long term this is?

I ran a D2 Td5 as a car and a 110 300 Tdi as a work vehicle, always heavily loaded. The Td5 always won the mpg battle and periodically did do some of the heavy towing, I always reckoned the Td5 was more economical. It also had more performance on the motorway. The minute I changed the front bumper for a steel one and ruined the aero equation, I reckoned the two were very comparible. I would say a Td5 is going to give you marginal benefit except that it brings you a bit more up to date availability wise?

Thanks Mike, thats kind of what I thought, ... no resin btw, the original is just a kind of dry matting with a bit of a frame. It's on the P38, the M51 BMW engine, I did look at BMW bits and theirs seem to be ally of some sort.

So having just got the transmission together and a brand new transmission in and working beautifully ..... a core plug sprang a leak at the back under the exhaust manifold. Got some bits and bobs on order, I am going to try and do it in situe by removing the turbo and exhaust manifold to get access. One bit I don't seen to be able to source is the upper heat shield over the exhaust manifold, which originally is a sort of fibreglass composite. So would a bit of ally sheet do, or is there a heat shield fabric out there that I haven't come across?

Not very imaginative here, any one with a military background might guess that my surname is White. Great thread though.

Thanks @Escape, I hadn't thought to check on there, I found it almost straight away HERE. Interesting that, although fitted on the bellhousing, it is for damping the transfer box. Be interesting to know whether the DSE has any, presume not if it is manual?

Welcome back, ... fingers crossed now for the future 🤞

So, finally getting my P38 back together after huge delays waiting for a new Ashcroft hp22/24 transmission to come via a slightly circuitous route, ... 3 months in now! Never thinking it would take this long and also because I am fairly familiar, I didn't photograph anything, just tore it all out ready for the new box. I have been putting it all back steadily and for some time puzzling over one bolt I couldn't remember it's purpose. When I get to the bottom of a box to recover the old handbrake shoes (from which I needed the lever assembly) there was also the damper. Mystery bolt purpose now resolved. Because I had just put the new front prop it was now a pain to reach up from underneath, so I thought to go and look up exactly how it fitted before deciding to attempt it from above or below. And heres the thing .... I cannot find anywhere, in the manual or the parts book, (or on Google come to that) any mention of a vibration/harmonic damper fitted to the bell housing. I have a parts vehicle here which is earlier than mine (99 vs 01) and it doesn't have one. I have also realised while trying to find this one that my front diff doesn't have one, some references suggest that only V8's have them, but as I am now on my second front prop in 4 years, I begin to wonder if it could use one. So just interested, anyone else got a D auto with a damper fitted to the bell housing? (or know where to find it in the book?), and does anyone have a damper on the front diff?