Lewis

If your 25mile drive takes you anywhere near staffordshire then swing by, ive got tools, and spares if i can find them Its two 13mm's if you can get hold of a spanner

Right then, after much swinging (oh er ) between options, it seems that 1x large amperage alternator charging two sealed lead acid batteries is the way to go. What do i need to know about them - what part/model numbers do i want? Who makes good ones and who sells them cheap? (cant find batteries on mole valley farmers website, and they are a bit too far away to just pop in) Can I get batteries mail order? Also - to return to my earlier question - split charge or not? Thanks all Lewis

Its my drivers money - so i'm concerned more about safety, reliability and longevity than downright cost Is there a real risk of lead acid leakage from batteries in the event of a roll over, or should i just stop being a girl and get on with it? Lewis

I think ive got a TD rad, airbox and downpipe in the field somewhere, my location could hardly be called the south-east though give me a PM if you want them. Probably got a pair of series doors too Lewis

UJ's are fairly cheap IIRC, so you may aswell change them, Ive even got a couple of spares somewhere you can have if you are feeling the christmas pinch Lewis

I have just spoken to a supplier and they recommend a pair of Odyssey PC1500 batteries in parallel charging through one alternator with no split charge system. They seemed to know their stuff and i'm swaying towards this route. One thing they did say though was that lead acid batteries will not last long under competion usage, which is at odds to what a lot of you are saying, probably because they sell odyssey though Can anyone see a major downfall or issue with this or should i just order them? Do i really need the added capacity (and cost) of the PC1500 over the PC1200? Cheers Lewis

Okay, maybe i'm not understanding some fundamentals here , apologies to those who are going over old ground on this one Question 1) Can i charge two batteries off one alternator? I was under the impression that the batteries didnt like it and therefore a split charge of some description is required Question 2) Is 60mm/sq cable suffiecient or overkill to wire up the winches? And is there a cheaper supplier than VWP? Question 3) Is it sensible to have two completey separate batteries and associated wiring - one for the vehicle (ignition, lights wipers) and one for the winches/compressor/worklights? Or should i just run two batteries in parrellel and run all of the circuits from them? Question 4) Are the Hawker batteries similar to the optimas - do they withstand deep-cycle use and are they sealed or are they conventional acid batteries? Does anyone have a link or prices? Your help with this is greatly appreciated Many Thanks Lewis

Okay, brief explanantion of powder coating - google will give you more/better detail Powder coating is like painting but with dry powder, in very basic terms the item to be coated is positively charged and the powder (usually a acrylic with a colour tone mixed in) is negatively charged. The powder is then "sprayed" onto the item, in this case a bumper. The negatively charged powder particles repel each other whilst the positvely charged bumper attracts them, this gives a very even depth to the finish, and also means that the powder can be sprayed from one side but will still reach all parts of the bumper, including inside hollow sections etc. The bumper is then baked to harden the powder. All in all it gives a smooth, hard wearing, thick, corrosion resistant finsh. It is an industrial process that cannot be easily performed at home Cheap though, my local place will do cash jobs in black white or silver for 20quid a pallet, colours are more expensive IIRC Hope this helps No doubt a proper adult will be along soon to help you with the rest Lewis

Thanks for the info guys, especially the pic Tony, i had been working off the photo below (courtesy of gwynlewis4x4.co.uk) So if i bought two normal batteries and wired them in parellel for the winches, but used one alternator for each batt would that work? Or am i about to get something very melty? Lewis

I should probably get in their with "fit a diesel" too before anyone else does

Mainly concerns about having lead acid all over the cab when the truck falls over, but also due to the optimas ability to cope with deep cycle use, and their small size. I had consisdered using 7.5ton truck batteries as i can get them cheapish but discarded for the above reasons Did the bolts arrive? - posted yesterday Lewis

I wanted to keep the twin alts as they are already fitted, dont mind upgrading though I guess my original question should have been more like "Whats required to run a pair of 8274s and a truck all day long with no issues" Cheers Lewis

Sure is, its currently languising in a muddy field taking up valuable 90 time I didnt make it clear in my post that neither winch is 6HP yet, we just want to make it upgrade proof

Okay, this is probably the first in a long line of obvious (to everyone else) questions relating to vehicle prep for UK challenge type events, so here goes: My driver (is the competion sense, not chaufer) has just bought this And the first thing under scrutiny is the electrical system. I am fairly confident in my ability to do the general re-wire but i am unsure on the battery situation. The previous owners ran twin Optimas charged by two 85amp alternators, but for the sale the batteries were replaced by a single lead acid battery to make it drive. I am preparing the truck for hard use and giving it a complete electrical overhaul and therefore my question is this: We want the capactity to run two 6HP 8274's, the engine (3.9V8), three fans, numerous auxillary lights, ARB compressor etc etc. I have been thinking that one alternator can charge a single red top optima to run the vehicle (ignition, headlights, wipers etc) and the second alternator can charge two yellow top optimas through an X-eng split charge system to run the winches, fans, aux lights, etc. Is this overkill? Many thanks Lewis

Nige, can you put us down for a team - non ARC class A Callow/L Bullock - in a horrible yellow thing with the wrong engine and leccy winches S Hare/?S Oakden? - in a heavy beige thing with the wrong engine and a leccy winch I'm gonna get some abuse in the pub when they read this

PM me your address and i'll send you a couple, some are metric some (earlier?) are imperial - which would you prefer? Lewis

Its a cheapo supermarket chain like Aldi or Lidl, their shops are usually located in the more financially challenged areas of the country, especially the midlands and further north (no offence anyone - theres one where i live ) Lewis

Modern Land Rovers such as L322 Range Rover, Discovery 3 and Range Rover Sport all have drain taps in the bottom of the rad to which a hose can be attached prior to draining = zero mess Lewis

Agreed with Bogmonster. If you are sticking to a setup similar to your current fairlead location between the crossmember and the bottom of the rear door, then you should be able to squeeze a Nato into the space they usually locate. Alternatively you could use what is listed on the defender micro-fiche as "Tow Hook Heavy Duty", its what i've got on the 90 and is basically a Nato that doesn't swivel and therefore is slightly smaller. I'm sure Western could provide the pictures from his EPC If you intend to have the fairlead in the middle of the crossmember, thus preventing Nato fitment, then a blatant copy of Tonks swivelly shackles would work nicely - with some suitable 10mm plate reinforcing repair sections I personally prefer to have a single recovery point in the middle, easier to hook straps onto, dont need a bridle etc I do like Marks suggestion though, simple cheap and effective The above just my humble opinion Lewis

I'll see if i can dig some out at the weekend

Maybe the change was implemented earlier than your 90 was built, as the new (1month old) XS seats that came direct from Land Rover are definately a diffrent shape - the base feels more sculpted like a bucket seat and the back has more lumbar support at the base of your back and also feels like it "hugs" you more. Sorry cant describe it any better than that, other than inviting you to sit in them, upon which you will certainly agree that they are in fact different to standard defender seats Note: i assume they are XS seats - they are half-leather and heated, however they may be from an alternate even higher spec vehicle (although i'm not aware there is such a vehicle) Also, it may be that the seats for the XS have been changed since your vehicle was built - as i say the seats i make refence to are brand new - and your vehicle is an 05 plate IIRC Lewis

Like mpb says, stitching with cable ties is an easy and cheap solution, its how truck arches are repaired. If you want to add some strength to the repair stitch in some industrial conveyor belt rubber behind the join. Lewis Also, if anyone has any arch spats for sale then PM me - i need two

My 90 (disco 200tdi lump) has only the middle silencer and sounds exactly the same as a full system, but then it wasnt loud with no exhaust When i bought the disco donor car it had failed the MOT on the exhaust (amongst other many things) because the pipe near the back box had rotted through and the rear silencer had fallen off, it made no noticeable diffrence in any way (noise/power) on the 100mile trip home Lewis

Franklin do one, as do Sealey Lewis

Later Defender seats are much more comfortable and have better lumbar support and a more sculpted base, try a breakers yard and see if you can find some XS seats - they are half leather and are heated Lewis