neonovice

Is the fuel pump noisy? Its in the tank and usually whines a bit but you can usually tell when they are on the way out as they either stop altogether or become excessively whiney.

It's not just dealers who are doing this either. Over the past 12 months defenders are being offered for 2x (even 3x) what I was paying previously for them. Whether or not they actually sell for that much I have my doubts, I reckon people are hanging on to them before JLR release the replacement in 2017.

I went to Inverness for new year 5 years ago. Aberdeenshire to Inverness isn't far but the 31st of December 2009 was probably the worst weather I've ever seen, certainly the worst I've driven in. I had just bought my first td5 in July so it was my first proper test of it. The only issue I had was the water in fuel light came on due to snow being compacted into the bracket round the filter. I'd never seen the light before and had no idea what it was. I pulled over to investigate. Literally two minutes later a helpful knowledgeable chap in a 90 pulled up to help me out and I was on my way in no time. That for me is the beauty of the Land Rover badge. Why you'd want to be going beyond 60 in a defender, I've no idea. Yeah you might get the engine tuned and the ratio shortened (lengthened?) so it's nice and quiet but your still in a defender with its 70s steering and 80s suspension.

It has stopped struggling to start (if you see what I mean) without me doing anything. I am going to assume it's fuel filter related as it's due a service. I will do it next year (i.e. Saturday) and hope the problem doesn't return.

I'd use it under the axle:

Could be. Would it not give a MIL for that though? It's a pain because there is no glow plug procedure for starting. It's a stupid push button start.

Hello all and merry Christmas. My wife's freelander 2 td4 2007 is struggling to start in the cold weather (-6). It turns over no problem - there seems to be lots of juice in the battery. I have managed to get it started with jump leads after running the battery flat. I can't access my workshop (therefore my diagnostics) until Monday. Any ideas as she's got work tomorrow and she won't drive a defender.

I agree it offers little protection to anything, its just plastic. I did notice that without it the fan (auxiliary what ever you want to call it) belt was chewed up on my Td4. Possible side effect of having nothing between it and the road.

I drove around for a couple of weeks without one. No issues but I wouldn't advise it. It guards the sump.

I bought one off eBay last week £35 delivered Cornwall to Aberdeen.

Last year I'd have said that was far too high. Not so sure now, that is certainly ball park what people are asking. Whether or not they are selling at that price is another matter.

I have sold quite a few over the years. EBay gets you lots of interest but gumtree is normally where they sell. Now is the time to sell it, before the snow arrives.

+1 for Bearmach

So, you disagree that tyres that are suitable for 6 months of winter may not be suitable for the occasional 6 days in 6 months?

Yes but you've missed my point. I'm sure they know more about snow tyres for their climate than we do. We have a different climate though.

Not sure I agree with that, yes the Scandinavians get more snow/cold weather than us but therein lies the problem. Their weather is different. Some of the Scandinavian countries are snow covered for 6 months of the year, not going to require the same tyres as somewhere with 6 days.

Lol

What exactly do you mean by 'all 4x4 tyres'? Generally I just have AT tyres on all year round. I suspect that most tyres won't be much cop on sheet ice, whether they are winter tyres or not. The softer rubber is only likely to help on tarmac, I can't see them helping much on ice. It's about traction; You will have traction a higher percentage of the time with softer tyres on. You will have more traction even more of the time with 4wd. Going out on ice, given the choice of a 2wd car with winter tyres or a Landy with normal road tyres I know which one I'd choose.

My FL2 is now at 75k, it was about 50 when I bought it 2 years ago. In the time I've had it, it's had: Slave cylinder (clutch) New clutch (not essential but I had the gearbox off anyway for the slave cylinder) New flywheel (same story as the clutch) Wheel bearings (both front) Brake pads all round It kept coming up TRANSMISSION FAULT TRACTION REDUCED. I chased this fault all over the place with new software installed, numerous musings from Land Rover garages, various sensors replaced. None of which solved the problem. Nothing actually went wrong with the car, just flashed up the fault every time it was started warm. In the end it just seemed to resolve itself. See here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78720&hl= Seems like a-lot but really the only actual issues have been the slave cylinder (about £10 but a b***h to get to) and the bearings (really could be classed as wear and tear). All in all it's a good car, excellent in the Aberdeenshire winters and will pull heavy loads without issue. Added after: I'd avoid the GS personally, mines an XS which is the lowest model with the decent stereo. S's and GS's depreciate too quickly for my liking.

Service book says to change timing belt at 150k!!

Keep it 5 speed.

Had a very similar problem to this last week. I removed the earth straps (battery - chassis and chassis - gearbox) underneath the passenger seat, cleaned and replaced. Sorted mine.

Mine had that fault. It never really caused any problems, and it sorted itself. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78720&hl=

I have 2 pumas. The gearboxes seem OK to me. 6th is great for motorway miles etc, much better than an R380 at 70-80. I havent had them long and never been off road so can't comment on reliability / off road capability.

http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/defendertd5/wipers_and_washers/wiper_motor_and_drive_rack_from_02my/