Def Harry

Best way to do it is by removing the plate under the centre seat/cubby box. Ideally you need to be in the cab with the engine running so you can see the EML come on. Also check the loom close to the plug on the ecu as this was where my problem was but that is more unusual.

Welcome to the forum. Had a very similar problem. Mine was caused by a break in the core of one of the wires connecting the throttle potentiometer to the ecu. The problem on mine was actually very close to the ecu, but they commonly degrade where the loom crosses over the gearbox/t-box. It may just have been water but personally I'd be tempted to go hunting in the loom to avoid getting stranded (I had intermittent episodes before I got stuck in tick over). Examine the loom, try to replicate the fault by gently moving and flexing the loom.

Borrow an ECU off someone? Don't need to fully code it. In fact it would probably be sufficient just to plug it in and see if you can communicate with it via the obd2 port. Alternatively take your ECU to another defender or post to someone who can test it.

Check power and earths for the ecu. However this sounds incredibly similar to what happened to me after leaving my TD5 parked in a field for a week. ECU had spontaneously expired. Replacement ecu, fired up straightaway and has been fine since.

I did think about it, but I'm already running a 1.2 tx box and I don't want to push the gearing up anymore. Manages quite happily currently with the remap.

The Falkens are fast becoming the front runner, good review from peaklander and I can get them at a decent price locally.

North Yorks, for the last good few years snow hasn't been much of a consideration for me but this was the first winter with my sheep on some ground a couple of miles away but 500ft up from our house. It's not a frequent issue there were 5 bad days this year, I was told that it can be pretty dicey up there but it was a bit more sporty than I was expecting. It's the perfect situation of a track in a dip and large open fields. But then it's not most of the year! I think I'm leaning towards muds I only do a couple of long motorway journeys a year the rest is shorter local journeys so many of the shortcomings won't be that noticeable.

I am currently having the tyre dilemma at the moment. Taking off a pretty ancient set of grabber at2s torn between replacing with a MT ( the ones ive been looking at are the Falken, Toyo, Hankook, wrangler) or perhaps something like the Yokohama X-AT G016 which looks like a middle ground between an AT and an MT. Sticking to standard 235/85/16. Have to get up a steep hill and track that drifts in when it snows (no option success or walk), reasonable frequency of trailers into fields. Any thoughts on options I'm missing (not willing to remove limbs to fund BFGs).

Cheers Snagger - I'm going for it, will update if it goes badly for me!

What CVs are people using the majority on sale are britpart or spurious brands? My nearside one is clicking. I only replaced it about 2 years ago with a Bearmach/ODM one so I don't fancy another ODM. The britpart ones seem to get more positive feedback than most of their stuff, however I have a pathological fear of blue boxes.

I used to really enjoy it, but the last time I had a subscription about 3 years ago as a gift it was more adverts than article. And there is only so many times you can look at ridiculously overpriced bling. Sad to see these names disappear but I think all the comments are right, magazines are a dying media!

I've got trucklites as well. Very happy with them for the price I paid, I think I got them for £200. Local place had got a couple of pairs to trial and they let me have them at pretty much cost. I've swapped them from my 90 into the 110 as I didn't want to let them go when I sold it. I wouldn't stump up £500+ a pair though.

If you remove the new switch and directly connect the feed wire spurred off the high beam feed to pin 85 on the relay/that wire - what happens?

Yeah, swap it out, run the purge cycle. Should go back to normal.

Almost certainly fuel pump failure and running out of fuel wont have helped it. Was the pump pretty noisy before? They are usually fairly loud before they give up. I'd replace the pump.

What was the beam pattern and range like? I've looked at those before to replace an ageing 100w halogen pair but chickened out so I'd be interested to know what they are like!

For anybody finding this in the future the hubs were Allmakes they seem to machine the hubs and studs to their own measurement cos it certainly isn't the "same spec as genuine" which is what the supplier told me. I acquired a couple of unused raptor 4x4 ones which arrived tonight. Taken one stud out and fitted a long one, fits fine and will take a torque unto 170nm so all good!

I debated the Chinesium ones on eBay when my original started leaking at the bottom corner, but in the end decided I'd rather stick to a Nissens one. I'm always a bit dubious about their quality control when they bang this stuff out so cheap.

It's more incredulity. I have received another one in the same yellow packet. I'm just debating whether to open it and knock out a stud or just return it and go elsewhere. I can't believe it's a one off I assume all the tooling will be the same.

So I'm swapping out a rear hub, bought an aftermarket one came in a yellow packet of unknown origin. knock the wolf studs out of the old hub, try and fit them into the new one and they just slide straight in and will turn!! Diameter of the splined section on the studs that came out of this new hub are 16.65mm compared to 16.15 mm on the 60mm stud. I rooted around for the studs I knocked out of a previous aftermarket (pretty certain it was bearmach) hub that went on the front and they are 16.1mm. The difference in the machining amazes me .5mm seems huge on such a small diameter, they aren't even trying to get close!

Unlikely to have grief, the majority of TD5s have had EGRs removed and get passed. Mine doesn't even have the cooler and the pipework from the manifold but still passes. Keep the bits in a box. If it fails at some point stick them back on, job done.

I have a LOF kit installed, done about 5000 miles since installation. No downsides thus far. Weighed it up and decided I was willing to take a chance on it. I have a 1.2 transfer box, tuned up a bit and tow reasonably often.

Yeah I thought it looked quite nice, proportions just looked a bit odd to me. Must be my eyes! Thanks everyone

Lazily browsing eBay, stumbled across this 2b for sale - but it looks like an 88, I'm guessing body plonked on top of an 88 chassis because I don't think the chassis looks right either. But I'd be grateful of an opinion of someone who knows more about them, just looks very odd! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275477488836?hash=item4023bce4c4:g:~MwAAOSwpsRjMudB&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsMZIEHf%2Bo5K7itZS4nofK9ZWTu6e0KWwzkRSkLbYrjlyiOpjRs7cYwrB7yj4jxa0FMsJrhr7V2L48lpBLXnn6FB%2BV0K6WLVgRXiYIreB%2FSfAc5EucpCqDYsNHx3vc9Nvi3jx%2FN0CYpEzxZgAhZVheCGA9vKUAT1EP1ewDYgjJ4sXEa7YKYOK06q2yneFRwMxhCRKQZZyEt2xcWW8v3dyW%2Fnu4eilzxUjsuWf2Or6cYzC|tkp%3ABk9SR7qJr8b0YA

I've got a set of Trucklites, got them quite a long time ago now. I think they are pretty decent, I swapped them from my 90 into my 110 when I sold the 90.