MrKev

This has to go in the tech archive, surely? Well done for a concise and comprehensive write up.

I thought it was now an MOT fail if the vehicle was post about '97, but http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_660.htm doesn't seem to mention anything specific about type approved towbars. The test manual does say that whatever is fitted, even if there is no ball or pin attached, should still be adequate and appropriately constructed. I would think that this is the basis the plod would use at the side of the road, as if they're not satisfied, they can request an MOT retest be taken and invalidate your current one. Looking at the D2 down the road from me, and comparing to my D1 I can't see any obvious difference, but I can't exactly have a proper look, as it's not mine to take apart...

I'd start by cleaning the switch contacts in the remote. The PCB part should be shiney, not covered in black stuff. The rubber pills just need a wipe. Kev

Hi Done similar myself recently. From my research, 1) Could by a huge amount of work, could be trivial - look at the back end of the sills too at the bottom of the rear wheel arch, as that's where the water goes next... 2) What does it look like from inside? There are 3 seatbelts to think about, the anchorages need to be sound. Also, the rear cross member may well be a problem. 3) cheap to fix - it's usually a broken spring, which is a couple of quid on eBay, though book in a couple of hours to do it as it's a bugger of a job! 4) Can't help you, but if in doubt... According to Haynes, LandRover recommend 36000 mile intervals if it's been subjected to lots of stop start driving, off road,in fact pretty much anything. 1 & 2 are well documented on this forum, in the tech archive. There are others on this forum better placed to offer technical advise than me, but hopefully I've got you started.

Anyone reading this got any good suggestions for 6m, 10m or longer suitable antenna solutions for a disco?

Been licenced for 15 years (G7TEP). Only just gotten into Landrover ownership though..... 73, Kev

Ignition switched power on White/Orange Control signal on Blue / Yellow Chassis Earth on Black The audio comes in on a screened cable. Any use?

I couln't find any mention of this event on the forum, but I went to the Broxhead Common (Bordon) event organised by Thames Valley 4x4 club, as a fundraiser for Children in Need. After being fined a total of £2 for parking with my lights on, car being too clean and not having been before (all direct to CiN), paying our membership fee and the day's fee, we were let loose, being given the advise to keep left of the first obstacle... I've a grand total of 1 previous experience of proper off-road driving (and that was asapassenger to an Army driver on a vehicle test, so alltogether a very different ride!). All the marshalls we spoke to were very helpful, and if any are reading, thank you for all the tips. My vehicle is equipped with nothing fancy, just a selection of road tyres and no proper recovery points, so generally took the most woosy route we could find, though I did find myself getting more adventurous as the day progressed, and I learned the capabilities of my vehicle a little more. It was a fun introduction to this particular aspect of Landrover ownership! A few photos can be seen on my Flickr stream if anyone is interested, please PM me if you recognise yourself and want mentioning / deleting! My Flickr stream: Well done to all those who organised the day, and I hope you made a good sum for Pudsy & Co. Kev

I find that when starting from cold, my Discovery 300TDi seems to lack power compared to when warm. I live at the bottom of a hill, and first thing, going from 1st to 2nd gear produces a dissapointing amount of pull up the hill, whereas if the engine is warm it's fine. Also, when cruising (engine warm), and especially when towing, there seems to be some reluctance to accelerate through 3000 rpm. It does, just not so smoothly as it does through the rest of the range. Having a look through the forum, it seems that likely candidates for these symptoms are lift pump & sedimenter / filter. Any thoughts? Am I expecting too much, barking up the right tree, or along the right lines? Is it more likely to be one that the other? Kev

3 cars on the policy for the price that two were otherwise for me, so thumbs up so far.

I should add: I've heard stories of French police taking a disliking (for whatever reason) and making people get out on an Autoroute, then fining them for not wearing the high-vis jacket. So, keep it in the glove box, and not in the boot, then you can put it on before getting out!

Indeed it's an offence not to carry the docs in the UK too, though there doesn't appear to be a direct penalty! Over here the wording is that if you fail to produce the docs when requested by a police officer, then you're liabale for a summons, followed by a fine/points/imprisonment unless you produce them within 7 days at a nominated police station. I carry my docs on the continent, but not in the UK, as it's a lot easier to nip down the cop shop within a week where they speak English, than face a right jolly whipping from a Flic in france or whatever they choose to do!

If you get one of those voltage sensing relays, then you only need to run one chunky cable (>4mm²) up to the battery, and everything else wires into the gizmo, or chassis earth. I found a suitable earth bond around behind the RH light cluster, and plenty of opportunity to run cables through the floor. Here are some, neither look like the one I bought from Towsure. http://www.towsure.com/product/2973-Self-Switching_Combination_Relay_Wiring_Kit http://www.towsure.com/product/428-Solid-State_Combination_Relay_Wiring_Kit The one I bought was a small box, with about 6 screw terminals at one end, and covered with a white sticker. I think it had a pot to adjest the threshold if needed, and I've installed one in each of my cars, and they seem to work well. They work by only supplying battery voltage to the caravan lights when the engine is off, and sensing the increased voltage sue to the alternator running, and switching on the feed to the fridge and to charge the battery. Hope this helps.

Good idea I assume is wan't super sharp! This is probably much better than putting a dob of solder of such like too.

I didn't find that post, despite searching, I'm struggling perhaps with the forum search - it seems to be an "OR" search, so looking for ELECTRIC SEAT SWITCHES brings up a lorra lorra hits nothing whatsoever related! Yes, you do kind of get a parts explosion if you're not careful when opening it, but as you say, apply some logic (or look at one of my photos) and it all goes back tegether pretty easily. I didn't grease mine - maybe I should have, but it wasn't very greasy before - I just cleaned the fluff out. Never underestimate the power of Coke as a contact cleaner!

No problem, glad it can be of some use. The sitch eustachions I bought came from Keith Gott in Alton, so I wouldn't mind betting your favorite parts stockist would have them - I've since thrown the bag away so I can't tell you which supplier they came from, but I've also seen them on eBay too in the past.

I cannot see a walkthrough on here, so I've taken a few snaps as I fixed my Disco 1 electric seat movement switches. Hopefully it will help someone and save them a few bob. 1. Replacement switch modulea are around £130 list. 2. Replacement switch eustachions are around £13, so if the clips that hold it in place are broken, then this is worth doing. A previous owner of mine had made a bit of a hash of a job using some nasty gaffa tape and it hadn't really worked either. Right, down to business. The switch contacts 'go black' and stop working. The reason why is not for this forum, so look up "pore corrosion" if you want to know more. If you need to remove the module from the console, you'll find two holes underneath, which you can shove a screwdriver up to release the catches, without breaking anything. Unplug the two connectors. Having removed the switch module, prise the switch actuators off the front, and put them to one side. You'll find a screw at each end attaching the eustachion to the switch housing. Undo these, and rescue the two screws from wherever you dropped them, and put them aside. There's one more screw in the rear centre - this one's a bit longer,remove that and get ready to take the thing apart - find somewhere flat 'cos you're about to drop all the bits. using a thin but wide straight screwdriver, or similar, undo the latches holding the two halves of the switch housing together - mine had some tape on too, so remove that. Ok, inside are 16 ball bearings (4mm diameter if you need to replace any), 8 springs, 8 'rocker contacts' and 4 plastic lever things, 3 of which will come out easily. Clean the brass rocker contacts in something - either use switch cleaner or one of those household cleaning things that come in a pink bottle, such as 'Cillit Bang'. Myself, I use Coke, it does a great job, and you get something to drink whilst you're doing it (don't drink the stuff you're cleaning the contacts in though). If necessary give them a rub with a finger nail or the blade of a scredriver to get anything really stubborn off - we're after something shiny. The contact points are each end, and also the centre. During: After: - a couple of black marks remain, so a bit longer in the soak... Also, clean the body of the switch with it's contacts in using the same method. Coke doesn't attack the plastic - I can't speak for any other products. Give it about 15 minutes, wash thoroughly, and dry equally well. Re-assembly is pretty straightforward, here's a picture to help, but basically a pair of rocker contacts per position, the two straight lever things go either side of the one that doesn't come out easily, and the offset one by itself. Above each rocker contact you need to insert one ball bearing, a spring, then another ball bearing - you should get this: Once you're happy, press the top cover back on, then put all the screws back where they came from, and put it back in the Discovery. All being well, you should find it all working.