MrKev

I've just thrown mine out, otherwise you'd have been welcome. I also got rid of the carpet, and don't hear a problem over the radio or the sound of branches scraping down the side of the wagon.

I'm planning on being there too!

I'm up for a sweat-shirt too, but I'm still waiting to hear if I can have some stickers at the moment.... Furthermore, my missus says she would be happy to embroider people's names on clothing if individual members require, for a token fee. For some examples of her work, please see here: My link Please note, we're not set up for volume embroidering, hence would not be able to handle the bulk job, but could certainly handle a slow trickle of requests :-D Kev

The bolts for the window frame are from the outside of the door unit at the top, and from the inside of the door unit at the bottom. Outside, hinge end, there's a torx type bolt. Door catch end it's a 10 or 13mm spanner if I recall correctly. Inside, it's a 7 or 8mm spanner - 1/4" drive socket set with a selection of extension bars are useful here. Window in the up position, as you'll need it to be up to continue with the decorating anyway...just take care.

My guess is they've put the voltage sensing circuit inside the plastic relay housing. (They do say integrated circuit technology, after all!) Some folk on this thread seem a bit harsh on the manufacturer, without seemingly having seen or used the product in question, don't you think?

I think the idea with split charge systems in general is so that you don't discharge your starter battery when running the accessories - winch, fridge, radio equipment or whatever, and also so that you don't place a cranking load on your auxiliary battery, which may well be of an unsuitable type. When the engine is producing charge, it should be maintaining both. If you just want to run a fridge off the leisure battery (~15A?) have you considered a product aimed at caravan 12S circuits? These are around a tenner from places like Towsure.

Lack of water is usually a sign, and oil having a mayonnaise consistency where it has mixed with the water is another. Why do you ask?

Try holding the key in the unlock position whilst pulling the handle. The 'spring' went in my back door and this did the trick till I replaced the spring.

yes, there is a short guide here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=47674 Kev

When you are talking about light bar 'motors' it sounds like you're talking about an whirly thing, probably in the centre of the roof, rather than the bridge things carrying some spots over the front windscreen.....?

The second link you cite contradicts your claim. "A Ground Plane is a flat surface of ferrous metal (galvanized, steel, etc) that a Magnet Mount or Body Mount antenna uses as an integrated part of it. For a Body mount antenna other metals may be used as it does not have a magnet that needs to stick to it." i.e. it needs to be magnetic if you plan on sticking a magnet to it (duh) but otherwise, it just needs to be electrically conductive.

90 axles! Wow, a set of tyres is gonna be expensive

Not sure why people add the steel plate - maybe for strength, or maybe it's a magnetic mount antenna? The reason earthing via the roof bar is not ideal, is because the ground plane is supposed to start at the base of the antenna, not some electrical length away. As highlighted above, the distance along the roof bar, and then back to the centre of the antenna via the roof is a reasonably significant distance. Mind you, I run mine from the roof bar, and the signal is pretty poor, and the SWR not that great, but not too damaging, I just live with poor range - like a mile or maybe 2 if I'm lucky. With my VHF antenna (for 2m HAM use) mounted 'more properly' on the same vehicle, I can get about 10-15 miles on the same RF output power. Kev

Not necessarily the springs, but these are a common complaint.... Just fixed my locks - the linkages aare adjustable, 7mm nut for the inner door handle, but right by the lock itself, so you'll probably have to strip the door to get to it. The outer handle can be adjusted without taking it all apart.

At the last oil spilling exercise, I discovered cheapo cat litter to do an excellent job at clearing up the oily mess. Thanks Mark for the tip.

Sounds like a great Valentines day treat for the missus. I'll probably come along anyway!

Hi Adam. See the 'tech archive' section of the forum, and have a browse round. the top post in there there is an index, listing all the posts worth reading. There's one on repairing the electric window ECU, which is known to be a common problem on Discoverys. On mine, it was the two rear windows that had failed, but it's worth a look, and will probably only take you about half an hour if you are moderately competent with a few tools and a soldering iron. I don't know what the likely problem is with your fans, but someone else might. I presume you've checked all the fuses? Do you have A/C - does the light on the A/C switch come on when the fan speed is set to anything other that off? Kev

I'm appreciating all this info. Many thanks to all who have responded so far. I'll post an update when I have some more news. The dash is in loosely anyway at the moment, so whipping it out quickly isn't a problem, I've just not had a suitable moment to do anything, and the darn thing has behaved itself the last few days too. There, I've cursed it now! Assuming it behaves itself, I'll try and wire a remote indicator lamp in if I get a chance, that way I'll be able to learn something when it next goes wrong. Of course, now I've posted this, Sod's law says I'm going no-where tomorrow morning now!

Indeed, the bosses are empty, there was definately no spider installed. More significantly, despite trying, I failed to find a section of wiring loom with around 5 or 6 black wires terminating in a 10 pin connector, like the one that goes into the spider in the photo. I'd better look harder, perhaps it's tucked away somewhere.

Hehe - yeah, I'm trying to get there before the permanent fault arrives, and given the current snow round here, the Disco is my 'Main' vehicle for a bit. The centre fascia is currently only loosely held in place, as I had it out at the weekend to look for a spider. I had a fairly good look round in there, one of the previous owners had changed the radio so there's a fairly major cludge of crimps etc to convert the radio wiring, which doesn't help. Underneath the metal plate that the radio sits above, I see some bosses on the plastic moulding below - would this be where the spider should be bolted on? I have thought about doing the bulb in cockpit idea, and I've been hoping for a chance when there's both daylight and no snow to crawl around on in order to do this. I think I need to get on with this next - check the wiring and earthing to the starter properly, and wire the lamp in if no problem spotted whilst I'm in there. The clicking I hear sounds like something inside the vehicle, but quite a few things get turned off during cranking so not sure exactly what just yet, but at one time I thought it did also sound like the solenoid clicking too. I have recently suffered from a poorly battery anyway, so I've just fitted a new one.

Looked up VIN - took a few sites before one would identify it, ended up using one at clifton.nl. It came back with SAL Manufacturer code: Land Rover LJ Model: Discovery, 200 Series (1989-1994) or 300 Series (1994-1998) G Wheel base: 100 inch M Body type: 4-door station wagon (LWB) F Engine type: 2.5 litre Tdi diesel, model 11L (200Tdi) or model 16L (300Tdi) 7 Steering and transmission: Right-hand drive (RHD), 5-speed manual (LT85, LT77, LT77S, R380 or other) V Model year: 1997 A Assembly location: Solihull, UK 70XXXX Serial number Looks like I've got a 97 model - I thought it was 96 on the V5! Will check when I get home. Sig updated accordingly

Manual - SALLJGMF7VA70xxxx

Hi all. Apologies for dragging the topic up again, but I've not been able to find what I'm after. I have a P reg Discovery 300tdi, with an occasional starting problem. Sometimes I get a click but no cranking. Research in here and other forums seem to suggest that the 'spider' is the most likely cause for problem, but I don't have one - at least not as per BogMonster's post. I do have a green box in the passenger footwell, which the RAVE manual refers to as the 'spider'. I had a look at this, and the soldering all appears fine. I've not had chance to check the starter connections so far, but the battery connections seem sound. Anything else I should be looking at, any other relays or connections about the vehicle that are of a high probability for failing?

Many thanks for the reply. I've now suitably re-allocated the relay Kev

Does anyone know where the fuse is located that feeds the power for the front below bumper fog lights? I've now removed them, but I wish to use the circuit for something else. Kev